Any one build one that will stand up to large rifle rounds like 30 06 or 308? I would like to build one. What is the best way to heat treat/harden steel at home? I don't mind spending $39 for one that will take hand gun but I have seen them for $150 and up that warn the frame is soft steel and would suffer from hits.
quick & fun steel target (standing)
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jwmorris
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The last 3 in my post are rifle targets. 3/8" ar500 steel, good up to 300 win mag but don't shoot rifles at steel closer than 100yds.
Handgunsports.com is where I get my hard plate steel from.
Handgunsports.com is where I get my hard plate steel from.
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SPIKER
Elite Member
Like JW said, it is the type of steel, the harder steels are good are resisting the rounds better but can also chip if hit just right or get warn. 100 or 1000's of rounds will work harden the metal to eventual fatigue. I used 3/8" T1 for the smaller targets on mine which the T1 is mostly Wear Resistant but also better at anti fatigue over time. I will be using them for any high velocity rounds.
You can get small hunks of steel bar in about any dimension so you can buy small hunks in thicker materials even A36 in 1/2" thick will stand up to most lead rounds without a lot of damage. Now toss in some armor piercing rounds I'm not sure what you can buy at the local machine shop that will stand up to those
Mark
You can get small hunks of steel bar in about any dimension so you can buy small hunks in thicker materials even A36 in 1/2" thick will stand up to most lead rounds without a lot of damage. Now toss in some armor piercing rounds I'm not sure what you can buy at the local machine shop that will stand up to those
Mark
I take it the rebar will stand up ok. I would just think it would deflect a round. Guess I will be looking around for some 500 steel. It has been way to long since high school but isn't there a way to heat treat steel that could be done at home or would that be brittle and prone to break.
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SPIKER
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The Rebar is actually not what you are supposed to be shooting at but the stray round should not cause too much damage & if it does it is cheap & easy to replace.
As far as heat treating standard A36 while yes you can but not much point unless it was all ya had & the cost and time to heat treat would far exceed the same size hunk of better stuff.
again using thicker material works in place of harder stuff as well so dont try to get too complicated. Go after it and have fun smashing some rounds against the metal. If it dont hold up slap a NEW hunk in place of the other one in about 30 min...
Mark
As far as heat treating standard A36 while yes you can but not much point unless it was all ya had & the cost and time to heat treat would far exceed the same size hunk of better stuff.
again using thicker material works in place of harder stuff as well so dont try to get too complicated. Go after it and have fun smashing some rounds against the metal. If it dont hold up slap a NEW hunk in place of the other one in about 30 min...
Mark
jwmorris
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I have to disagree with that statement. As soon as the surface of a steel plate is not flat, it will start sending fragments back to you. Not to mention 1" thick hot roll steel won't even contain some rounds.
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SPIKER
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JW: you missed the "Previous Post" where I stated the following
those shots you posted are of obvious armor piercing rounds and typically are not going to be in civilian home owner firing range use.
Also anytime your target back stop gets damaged they should be replaced so if the target starts to CUP or Deform the chances of a bounced back or ricochet or target fragmenting gets higher.
Also last post from the first page I also included warning about FMJs & Metal targets. I'll re-quote that.
Mark
those shots you posted are of obvious armor piercing rounds and typically are not going to be in civilian home owner firing range use.
Also anytime your target back stop gets damaged they should be replaced so if the target starts to CUP or Deform the chances of a bounced back or ricochet or target fragmenting gets higher.
Also last post from the first page I also included warning about FMJs & Metal targets. I'll re-quote that.
Mark
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jwmorris
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Sorry about that, took it out of context. I agree, with cast lead at non magnum pistol velocities and 3/8" mild steel are fine together.
muddstopper
Veteran Member
I can say with certainty, that a 243 with a 60gr hollow point will completely sever 1/2in rebar at 100yrds. Found that out by slipping a paper target over a electric fence post while zeroing a scope.
So I do not know the makeup of rebar but I saw some sites telling how to harden steel at home I am thinking if I put rebar in my anthracite coal stove and get it red "cherry hot for some time I could put it in water. If I then heat it to a lower temp "blue"? And then put it in water this would eliminate the brittle factor. Or do I need to let it air cool. I have never seen steel go "blue" before it goes red so I assume they are talking about the 1st stage when you see color. I found a company that sells 500 steel targets good to go but I am afraid to weld them on to rebar and soften the steel. Could I spot weld them on with an arc welder taking my time? And the only alternative I saw was hanging targets using chain but I would think the bullet from a .308 would cut the chain before it deflected it.