Quick hitch category 1 lift pins

[gwdixon]

they are cat I on all spacing BUT the diameter of the pins. The pins that the lower claws latch on to is the same as cat III lower link pins. and I think that the upper claw is cat II also(at least that seems to be the way it is on my IMatch) I don't know why but that is the way every quick hitch I have ever seen is set up. The deere bushings that came with my IMatch sucked so I took one as an example and ended up buying 2 sets of bushings( one set cat I to II, and one set cat II to III) and that matched the diameter of the Deere bushings. I didn't have to buy anything for the top link though, the IMatch does not use the normal toplink pin, it grabs the spreader below the normal pin.

Ah...thanks for the clarification. I'm not very familiar with the IMatch but it sounds like it is made to fit Cat 1 through Cat 3 implements in a single unit.

The disadvantage of the IMatch and any other rigid frame QH is that all of the implements must be perfectly dimensioned to fit the frame. It is a great system if they are. Several threads exist here on TBN about this.

The OP has a Pat's Quick Connect so the lower lift arms on the 3PH can spread or sway to fit different "A" frames of variously dimensioned attachments. Apparently, he was having trouble with the Pat's sliding off of the implements' lift pins and was asking for a solution. At least that is my take.

 

[Tact]

Ah...thanks for the clarification. I'm not very familiar with the IMatch but it sounds like it is made to fit Cat 1 through Cat 3 implements in a single unit.

The disadvantage of the IMatch and any other rigid frame QH is that all of the implements must be perfectly dimensioned to fit the frame. It is a great system if they are. Several threads exist here on TBN about this.

The OP has a Pat's Quick Connect so the lower lift arms on the 3PH can spread or sway to fit different "A" frames of variously dimensioned attachments. Apparently, he was having trouble with the Pat's sliding off of the implements' lift pins and was asking for a solution. At least that is my take.

You are correct. I used to have an IMatch, but I had difficulties hooking up to all implements, so I switch to Pat's QC. I'm thinking my best solution is to buy the longer lift pins and use the washers I have now. I mainly use four implements, so we're talking about eight lift pins to change out.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Ah...thanks for the clarification. I'm not very familiar with the IMatch but it sounds like it is made to fit Cat 1 through Cat 3 implements in a single unit.

no, it only is wide enough to fit a Cat I implement. the distance between the lower claws is to narrow for anything bigger than cat 1. I have seen quick hitches that were convertible from 2 to 3 but the cat 1 is narrower and shorter than both 2&3. and honestly any attachment that is cat one will die a horrible death if pulled behind and cat 2 equipped tractor. the attachment just isn't built heavy enough to hold up if worked hard. and the same goes for pulling higher cat attachment with a tractor, the attachment will either be to heavy or just too big for the tractor to pull.

 

[gwdixon]

You are correct. I used to have an IMatch, but I had difficulties hooking up to all implements, so I switch to Pat's QC. I'm thinking my best solution is to buy the longer lift pins and use the washers I have now. I mainly use four implements, so we're talking about eight lift pins to change out.

Another option that I should have mentioned is to use a spacer bar on the lugs on the inside of the Pat's. The spacer bar will hold the Pat's from going either in or sliding off.

Since you use four implements you can use some 1/4" rebar to make a |_| ("U") spacer bar specific to each implement. The legs only have to be a couple of inches long.

Once you hook up an implement you can measure the distance between the holes on the Pat's and fab up a spacer bar. Then store the bar with the implement.

I have and use the rebar type and also use a large turnbuckle with a vertical bolt welded to each end to make a variable spacer bar.

(Photos if requested.)

 

[gwdixon]

no, it only is wide enough to fit a Cat I implement. the distance between the lower claws is to narrow for anything bigger than cat 1. I have seen quick hitches that were convertible from 2 to 3 but the cat 1 is narrower and shorter than both 2&3. and honestly any attachment that is cat one will die a horrible death if pulled behind and cat 2 equipped tractor. the attachment just isn't built heavy enough to hold up if worked hard. and the same goes for pulling higher cat attachment with a tractor, the attachment will either be to heavy or just too big for the tractor to pull.

Then I wonder why the lower pin attachments are Cat 3 and the upper is Cat 2. :confused2:

If the IMatch is only wide enough for a Cat 1 then, logically, the rest of the QH should be to Cat 1 specs. That would eliminate all of the bushings needed.

 

[greg_g]

I'm not a big fan of getting on and off the tractor any more than necessary, but I find this to be much ado about nothing. Before buying this John Deere, I had the Harbor Freight QH for a while, then replaced it with the PEC system; one Cat 1 set, one Cat 2. I had no problem with getting off the tractor to remove the PEC washers and lift pin clips before attaching the implement. Once the QH or PEC grabbed both pins, I got back off the tractor and reinstalled the washers/pins. Heck, ya gotta get off at least once to hook up the toplink anyway !!. My arthritis is worse now. So if I had to do it again, I'd simply keep a selection of washers and clips on the tractor until the PEC grabs the implement pins, then jump off and install them at the same time I attach the toplink.

//greg//

 

[Tact]

Another option that I should have mentioned is to use a spacer bar on the lugs on the inside of the Pat's. The spacer bar will hold the Pat's from going either in or sliding off.

Since you use four implements you can use some 1/4" rebar to make a |_| ("U") spacer bar specific to each implement. The legs only have to be a couple of inches long.

Once you hook up an implement you can measure the distance between the holes on the Pat's and fab up a spacer bar. Then store the bar with the implement.

I have and use the rebar type and also use a large turnbuckle with a vertical bolt welded to each end to make a variable spacer bar.

(Photos if requested.)

I have the adjustable spacer bar. With the thickness of the hooks there isn't enough tolerance space for a clean hookup each time.

I'm not a big fan of getting on and off the tractor any more than necessary, but I find this to be much ado about nothing. Before buying this John Deere, I had the Harbor Freight QH for a while, then replaced it with the PEC system; one Cat 1 set, one Cat 2. I had no problem with getting off the tractor to remove the PEC washers and lift pin clips before attaching the implement. Once the QH or PEC grabbed both pins, I got back off the tractor and reinstalled the washers/pins. Heck, ya gotta get off at least once to hook up the toplink anyway !!. My arthritis is worse now. So if I had to do it again, I'd simply keep a selection of washers and clips on the tractor until the PEC grabs the implement pins, then jump off and install them at the same time I attach the toplink.

//greg//

Sometimes that works, but if it is not on perfectly even ground the slack in my sway bars allows the hooks to slip off at times. Many times will trying this method I found myself kicking the lift arms trying to get enough clearance so I could get the washers on and the pins back in the hole.

Here is a pic:

 

[greg_g]

if it is not on perfectly even ground the slack in my sway bars allows the hooks to slip off at times.

Don't you use the PEC spacer bar? That's exactly what it's supposed to prevent. You paid for it, why not use it? Properly adjusted side links help too. Between the PEC spacer bar and my side links, I never had that problem.

//greg//

 

[Tact]

Don't you use the PEC spacer bar? That's exactly what it's supposed to prevent. You paid for it, why not use it? Properly adjusted side links help too. Between the PEC spacer bar and my side links, I never had that problem.

//greg//

That is my problem. The space between the washer and the shoulder of the lift pin is so narrow that the bar has to be perfectly spaced so that both hooks attaches to the pins. If it is off slightly, one of the hooks always binds/catches one of the washers on either side. The answer, I believe, would be longer lift pins so the clearance between the washer and the pins shoulder is wider, making the hook-up on both pins easier.

If I had to guess there is probably only a difference of 1/4-1/2 inch between the thickness of the hooks and the space available on the pins once the washers are attached. The washers are not straight once attached by the retaining pin.