Quick Hitches Quick Hitch Options

GeneD14 · Jun 20, 2006

I am sick and tired of wrestling implements as I'm trying to hook up to the tractor. I am thinking of buying a quick hitch attachment to make it easier.
Here are the options that I am currently pondering:
1. Pat's easy change
2. Can I buy a JD I-Match? If so how much $ ?

I have read through the threads on Pat's easy change so I have a good understanding of the pros and cons. Can any one tell me about the JD I-match, pros and cons? Which system is "better? Thanks

Bob_Skurka · Jun 20, 2006

GeneD14 said:
Which system is "better? Thanks

I have PAT's and absolutely LOVE it however, I think the fixed Quick Hitch systems like the JD iMatch are superior. Now that said, I would buy Pat's again.

The main reasons to buy a Pat's system is if you regularly use a post hold digger -or- if you implements that will not work with the fixed width of the iMatch type Quick Hitches.

Not all 3pt implements will work with an iMatch type quick hitch. Before you buy a quick hitch, you would be well advised to measure all your implements to make sure they will work with the hitch you would like. You might find that all of yours will work fine, but you might not. In my case, my RFM would not fit and I also use a PHD frequently, so my choice was pretty easy, I went with Pat's. Your situation my be very different.

GeneD14 · Jun 20, 2006

Bob,

Thanks for the advise. I hadn't even thought of how a post hole digger would attach. I would have to take the I-Match off to use a PHD.

Bob_Skurka · Jun 20, 2006

I use a PHD to plant bushes and small trees. And I seem to do it frequently. A PHD is one of the hardest implements I know of to hook up unless you have some sort of a stand to hold it. With a Pat's system, you drive up to the back of it and drop the lower link pins into Pat's hooks (a little bit of wrestling but usually not enough to break out a sweat). You then tip it up and connect the top pin directly to your tractor. I can do it alone, even with an auger bit attached to the PHD and I'm a middle aged arthritic desk jocky.

With an iMatch or similar unit, you have to take it off. Then you have to go through the process above but with the added grief of lining up the lower link pins to the ball eyes, and of course inserting them and getting the pins in. Not too bad if you have the PHD hanging by a rope from a tree.

Make sure all your other implements are iMatch compatible before you buy one! As I said earlier, an iMatch (or even better one of the triangle type Delta or Freedom hitches) would be easier to use than a Pat's system, but you need to make sure you implements work with it, and you are not a frequent user of a PHD.

Hard · Jun 20, 2006

I use a Speeco Quick Hitch I bought at Tractor Supply ($196). It fits with my full size Woods 5' rear blade, full size Woods 6' rear blade, Woods 5' landscape rake estate series and a Woods 4' box scraper. It works great and no more implement wrestling!

I do have to remove it when using my Woods PHD25.

canoetrpr · Jun 21, 2006

My dealer let me try a Landpride QH15 QH for a few days. I decided to return it.

I figured that two brand new implements would be QH compatible. I have a Woods BB60 bush hog which is but my Kubota ballast box was not. I did not want to get into modifying stuff and I also found that being a short guy myself, it wasn't easy for me see the lower links getting hooked - the top of the QH blocked my view.

I plan to go for a Pat's instead. I don't care about getting off the tractor at all. I'd just like something that does not require me to muck around with a wrench to get the lower link arms wide enough to get the hole into the lower pins on the bush hog and have to tighten them up again and so on.

Another thing to bear in mind is that a Pat's will allow you to buy the he odd old implement at an auction without needing to modify it to fit your QH.

3RRL · Jun 21, 2006

canoetrpr said:
I plan to go for a Pat's instead. I don't care about getting off the tractor at all. I'd just like something that does not require me to muck around with a wrench to get the lower link arms wide enough to get the hole into the lower pins on the bush hog and have to tighten them up again and so on.

Another thing to bear in mind is that a Pat's will allow you to buy the he odd old implement at an auction without needing to modify it to fit your QH.

I have Pat's and they are great. Very robust and versitile. Just keep in mind you MAY still have to adjust the width for different implements...depends what you got. Also, you'll have to attach/remove the top link for switch-overs.

canoetrpr · Jun 22, 2006

3RRL said:
I Just keep in mind you MAY still have to adjust the width for different implements...depends what you got. Also, you'll have to attach/remove the top link for switch-overs.

I'm assuming that you would have a harder time, if anything, if you had to adjust the width on the lower links for an implement with a non Pat's QH. Can you even do it on a regular QH? Don't think I've seen one that can be adjusted this way. I think you would have to resort to just taking the QH off if this was the case

.

The bottom links seem to be pretty regular in their width - at least on my stuff. The top link is where the problem is and once you have the bottom pins hooked up, hooking up the top link just takes seconds. Not much more effort than hooking up the pto shaft (for PTO driven equipment).

Bedlam · Jun 22, 2006

Ive also noticed with mine that the lower pins are all the same but as with yours the top ones vary.This makes the use of the HF quick hitch not work on most of mine. Here is a link to a post about the HF hittch.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79288
Good luck.Al

SPYDERLK · Jun 22, 2006

Quote from Bob Skurka: A PHD is one of the hardest implements I know of to hook up unless you have some sort of a stand to hold it.
Agreed. I have found a convenient way around this that does not involve any hardware. I hang my PHD from the overhanging limb of a tree. I use a nylon motorcycle tiedown with the camlock adjustment so you can just pull it to change loop length. With the PHD suspended from the gooseneck so that the auger and lower links just touch down it becomes a fairly compliant beast. Once you have this setup tuned you just back up to the appropriate spot, lift the toplink connection of the PHD to the top position on the tractor and pin it. This can vary from a little bit difficult to very easy - the swing and swivel inherent in the suspension allow you to accomodate errors in positioning easily. Once the top is attached the lift arms should go right on. Then lift and release the suspension. Youll embarrass yourself if you dont.
Larry

TwinWillows · Jun 22, 2006

I've also found the tree limb "stand" to work great. I use an old cable comealong to do the hanging & it works nice. This is at least 10 times easier to conenct it when hanging than the first connection when it was on the ground!

GeneD14 · Jun 23, 2006

Thanks for all of the input. I am going to order a set of Pat's easy change links.

Bob_Skurka · Jun 23, 2006

GeneD14 said:
Thanks for all of the input. I am going to order a set of Pat's easy change links.

You're going to regret it

gordon21 · Jun 23, 2006

IF, and this is a big IF, your implements match up and will fit an I-match, then spend the $225 and get one. You can attach and detach implements from the tractor seat without dismounting. No top link to jerk around with. Spin around in your seat, flip 2 levers, drop the implememt and you are good to go. You can back up and attach an implement in under one minute without getting off the tractor. I'm sure you know that a boxscrape weighs over 400#. It doesn't matter if you have the I-match. There will be no wrestling it around. The bad part is that the JD hitch is designed according to strict industry standard specs. About half of the implements out there today are not made to to the current standards. You can modify your existing attachments with different pins, spacers, bushings, etc for about $25 or less per item if you have to. The difference between the Pats system and the I-match is less than $50 once you figure tax and freight. If you use it once per week over the next 3 years, the convienance comes out to about $00.32 per week. It will only take one time wrestling around something that weighs 400# to convince you to spend $0.32 per week. And that assumes you don't mash your hand or finger along the way......

gordon21 · Jun 23, 2006

IF, and this is a big IF, your implements match up and will fit an I-match, then spend the $225 and get one. You can attach and detach implements from the tractor seat without dismounting. No top link to jerk around with. Spin around in your seat, flip 2 levers, drop the implememt and you are good to go. You can back up and attach an implement in under one minute without getting off the tractor. I'm sure you know that a boxscrape weighs over 400#. It doesn't matter if you have the I-match. There will be no wrestling it around. The bad part is that the JD hitch is designed according to strict industry standard specs. About half of the implements out there today are not made to to the current standards. You can modify your existing attachments with different pins, spacers, bushings, etc for about $25 or less per item if you have to. The difference between the Pats system and the I-match is less than $50 once you figure tax and freight. If you use it once per week over the next 3 years, the convienance comes out to about $00.32 per week. It will only take one time wrestling around something that weighs 400# to convince you to spend $0.32 per week. And that assumes you don't mash your hand or finger along the way......

gordon21 · Jun 23, 2006

GeneD14: Your profile shows you have a 6' boxscrape. That sucker probably weighs over 500#. You will still have to wrestle the top link on that and every other 3PT implement you attach. The whole point of a quick hitch is not speed, but EASE of attaching. With the I-match, you never leave the tractor seat. With Pat's you will be down on your hands and knees EVERY time you attach something. Twice. One to hook it up and again to unhook. You might want to reonsider the $0.32 per week cost.

Hard · Jun 26, 2006

I sold all my implements that did not match up to my Speeco/TSC quick hitch and bought all Woods implements that do match up. Life is is good now...

GeneD14 · Jun 26, 2006

My Woods rear blade, box blade, and CCM tiller all have the same 3 pt dimensions and would work good with the I-match. The problem childen are my brush hog, and neighbors post hole auger that I use. I would have to rebuild the hitch on the brush hog or buy a different one. I would have to remove the I-match to use the post hole auger.
It seems that in the short term Pat's would work. I would just have to adjust the width of the spreader bar when I use the brush hog. I wouldn't have to remove Pat's to use the auger.
I don't want to buy new implements just yet because in about a year I would like to move up a size in tractor and at that time I would get matching implements. At that time the I- match may be a better solution. I would also move up to a Cat II size hitch.
Thanks,