quick hitch problem on hills

[northernjake]

Hi all,
I know exactly what ymarianne is talking about. This spring I bought a new Kubota GL3540 with a Land Pride QH. When I went to hook it up to my Farm King RFM, there was no way that it was going to "mate up". I had the PTO shaft hooked up as well and the QH frame barely cleared it. I was trying to figure out what kind of mods I would have to make to the mower when I decided to go on the Buhler website to see if there was any mention of QH compatability. I looked up the RFMs and on-line operators manual to discover that there was an adaptor kit I could order.
The 1st pic is the mower as original, the second and third pics show with the kit installed (all the black parts). This made all the difference in the world, and works "just like uptown". I really like the QH. ymarianne, I don't think that it would matter which QH brand you have, at least all the ones I have seen are primarily the same, except Pats, and JDs top link is rigid.
When I ordered the kit, I had to get some other parts as well, including a new PTO shaft as the other one was too short for this setup,..... anyways I beleive the kit was $100.00 ish Canadian.
Take care,
Jake

 

[Mickey_Fx]

If original poster's mower is anything like Jakes, one can see where there are going to be problems. In the first picture, it is obvious the 3pt lower attachment points are substantially lower than one normally finds on implements, thus placing the pto drive-line higher than normal. Also top link attachment point is much higher than normal 3pt spacing. Looking at pic 2&3 one can see the adapter corrects these abnormalities. Lower attachment points are higher and upper attachment is lower.

The question I have is, why would the mfgr of the mower design it with non-standard 3pt spacing and location with respect to the drive-line?

 

[tugboat-2]

Yes, that is the kit I suggested earlier. My Bhuler RFM worked with my JD4410 but when I traded for the 3520, it did not fit. Had to get the Bhuler adapter kit and its fine. With mine the trouble was I couldn't get the top hook to go under the pin until the adapter raised the pin about 3 inches.

I suggested "perhaps"(?) marianne's was the opposite and there was too much room leaving the hook loose and needed an adapter kit? Seems like that might have been the answer? Would you not think the dealer could have checked on that possibilty for her?

Be nice to hear if she ever got it working properly?
. . tug

 

[northernjake]

Mickey Fx,
This was my late Fathers' mower, and the first time I had much to do with it. In the 1st pic., the lower lift pins are bolted onto two brackets on either side of the weldment on the mower. (Actually it should be bolted to the lower hole on that weldment). After you unhook them from the tractor 3 pt., they drop straight down like a pendulum. When operating they would be pretty much horizontal, this is how the deck is able to float. Of course trying to hook them up on a QH would be like hooking up to a piece of rope, and as you can see on the top link, it just was not possible to hook up. But you are right as far as stating that obviously by having the bottom pins higher, it certainly made all the difference with the PTO. Dad used it on his Ford 800 up until last fall (bought new in 1996) without any issues.

Take care & Thanks,
Jake

 

[tugboat-2]

Northernjake: Sorry about the loss of your father. Glad you got the mower stuff working. Yes it is odd that a manufacturer of such versatile equipment would mess up on the hook-up issue.

All my accessory equipment fit my old JD-4410 perfectly,...and it all fits my 3520 perfectly,...with the exception of my "Buhler" (correct spelling finally) RFM, and as explained previously, the Adapter-Kit with longer arms, fixed the problem.

I had considered "trying" to fix the issue "somehow", but bit the bullet and paid the hundred+tax+S&H from Germany etc and so-on which got the total up around 165, (I think),....but my dealer installed it and "eventually" my mowing got done!!!!!!

OK,..well it appears that everyone is happy now with the possible exception of Marianne who got this thing started,....so 't'would be delightful to hear how she finally made out.

So how bout it Marianne, could you stop by for a sec and give us the word?

CHEERS !
. . tug

 

[northernjake]

Thanks tugboat-2,
You had to get your adaptor from Germany? I got mine from Buhler in Manitoba. The RFM was the biggest alteration and most $$$ that I had to do, I bought a new LP tiller at the same time as the QH, so it was a match, my nephew (welder) made minor mods on the other implements, so they are all a breeze now.
But you are right, I would like to hear from ymarianne, I hope she pursues the QH with educated people so she can enjoy it as well.

Cheers,
Jake

 

[tugboat-2]

Northernjake: ....yes you could very well be correct on where it came from. At the time I was told they had to order it and the parts guy said something about Buhler in Germany and it could take time etc,... and I just "assumed",.....(and I guess we all know what that means)?

CHEERS for now!
. . tug

 

[ymarianne]

Haven't quite moved on, but since I need an additional attachment for my Woods finish mower to work with the Woods QH, I decided to try and see if I can get used to changing implements without a QH. I may come back to using one if I can't get the hang of it or it's not fun. I don't know why Woods would make some implements that fit their QH and others that don't. The bush hog works fine without any kind of special attachment, it's just the finish mower that needs something extra. I don't know about other implements.

 

[northernjake]

It's okay to learn how to hookup without the QH, as a matter of fact it would be a good thing, then IF you ever went to a QH with compatable or modified implements, you would never be able to appreciate the QH. Actually if you don't change implements too often, it's not that big of a deal. On my old RFM with the QH adaptor on it now, would not be able to "float" like it should hooked up the traditional way, and obviously visa-versa, so if someone wanted the RFM and does not have a QH, they would not want to pay for the adaptor. Like I say, mine is a 1996 model, I looked a brand new one and they are exactly the same.
When my nephew made mods to other equipment, some just involved relocating a gusset or other minor things. Some of the new implements like my tiller are "Quick Hitch" compatable, and will work either way.
I hope this is not too confusing and best of luck.

Cheers,
Jake

 

[Runner]

Sorry I'm so late getting in on this one. Here is a picture from a Woods manual of the parts needed for a quick hitch adapter for their mowers.

 

[ymarianne]

And I though quick hitches were simple things. Boy did I learn alot from this thread. They ought to change the name to Sometimes Quick yet Can Be Complicated Hitches.

 

[SPYDERLK]

And I though quick hitches were simple things. Boy did I learn alot from this thread. They ought to change the name to Sometimes Quick yet Can Be Complicated Hitches.

QSCH...?
larry

 

[northernjake]

It does not help everybody with my "description of events" or "how tos", I am more of a show and tell kind of guy.
In the "best of world for Quick Hitches", the first thing you would get is the QH with your tractor, then evry implement thereafter would be QH compatable. For me, I knew that I could (and have) changed up to 4 implements a day, so I was determined to make the necessary changes to make the QH work. I was lucky, only having to invest the $100.00 ish for the adaptor for the RFM, I had some flat iron and angle iron, free labour from my nephew (less a couple of refreshments) to make mods to the other stuff, and all is well, no crowbars, swearing, etc. Things will get sweeter when I get a hydraulic top-link.(I think)

Cheers,
Jake

 

[rambler]

The question I have is, why would the mfgr of the mower design it with non-standard 3pt spacing and location with respect to the drive-line?

With the pics of the before & after conversion, it makes sense now.

In order for the mower to 'float', either the top link or the bottom links must be flexable. If the top link is flexable (a chain in it instead of flat iron) then there is a remote possiblitiy the mower can hit something and flip up vertical & cause a lot of liability issues.

So their solution was to put the lower pins on flat iron that can pivot quite a bit. Works well I'm sure and actually makes hooking up to a regular 3pt very easy.

But all that flex in the bottom pins means it doesn't work with a quick hitch. Those bottom moving pins are not a standard 3pt thing, I hadn't seen that design before.

The $100+ solution is to build a new frame for the mower that keeps the flex link in there, with an outer frame that hooks onto the quick hitch. That puts the $$$$ cost onto the user, rather than re-engineering the thing to work with both 3pt & quick hitch.

This mower could be 'fixed' by putting the lower pins into the solid hole - throw away those little short arms. The top link would need to have the strap irons going to the back cut shorter, and place a few links of chain in the place of the shortened iron. This would allow the flex at the top instead of the bottom, but would not allow the mower to flip up very high if it caught something, and probably should be the real fix from the company?

Actually hooking up such a flex top link with a quick hitch can be difficult tho, as you need the top to be leaning forward, not backwards as it will want to do.

A hyd top link really helps a quick hitch be much easier to use, think someone mentioned those! The cat's meow.

--->Paul

 

[northernjake]

Hi Rambler,
The way you describe is exactly the way that the adaptor kit works. It takes the "flex" or float capabilities out of the out of the bottom links to the top link. The red A frame in pic #3 is connected to the strap irons as you describe going to the rear of the deck. These strap irons are slotted at the rear and slide on a bolt attached to the frame. This gives the "flex" as the red A frame and the black A frame pivot at the top (If the red goes up, the black goes down, etc.)
You are right on the before picture, where the lower links attached to the flat irons acted like two little draw bars to pivot as irregular ground conditions were encountered.
The adaptor kit works great.
I feel like I have completely stolen ymariannes' thread..., sorry.

Jake

 

[ymarianne]

update: got a call out of the blue from my dealer. He ordered the extra part needed for my finish mower and is giving it to me at no cost! So I'm back with a quick hitch after all. Thanks for all your support. I'd like to buy you all a beer...

 

[tugboat-2]

My heartiest CONGRATULATIONS to you Miss Marianne !!!! I'm so happy for you as I know you will find this thing very helpful once its working properly. I used to hook up and change implements the old way for years and never knew different.

But once I got mine working it is fantastic,...especially for things like grader blades and others that you don't have to dismount to attach a PTO. Just reach back and hit the levers locking everything down and away you go.

We were thinking what a jerk your dealer was, but I'm so glad he came around and showed you some good will at last!! GOOD LUCK to you!! I'll have a beer in your honour!

CHEERS!
. . tug

 

[northernjake]

Good for you! Congrats to your dealer for their great help also. All this quick hitch stuff may have new to them as well, I know where I bought the Farm King adaptor kit, he never knew anything like that existed, but he was certainly interested in it. If you need anymore assistance, we will certainly try to help.
Happy "QuickHitchin"

Jake