Quick Hitches Quick Hitch worth it?

   / Quick Hitch worth it? #21  
Do you need a QH. Of course not. Do you want a QH. Of course you do. :thumbsup:

It is one of the cheaper attachments to buy. There might be some effort required to make all your attachments compatible, but once you do, changing attachments becomes quick and easy.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #23  
Do you need a QH. Of course not. Do you want a QH. Of course you do. :thumbsup:
Now that is just wrong! :laughing:
BTW, that would never fly with the wife.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #24  
Gizmo2 said:
Now that is just wrong! :laughing:
BTW, that would never fly with the wife.

Just do what I do. Buy it put it on your tractor and when she notices it just say that you've had it for a while.

Or...be up front and tell her that it will be easier. That is why you bought the tractor after all to make it easier, right? :thumbsup::laughing:
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #25  
I can say it is a good investment, otherwise I wouldn't have bought 3 imatchs. Best thing I did to my tractor, my grandpa's tractor, and my Dad's tractor. :thumbsup:
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
AlbertaDan if you are on concrete try using a dolly if you have one. What is giving you the most problem? You are starting lined up with the attachment and lift arms loose and inline with pins on attachments? Hook them up first right? Then top link? Then pto? Raise and tighten anti sway?

I don't have a quick hitch and never wanted one after reading the troubles people go through to use them! You still have to get off to hook the pto anyway. I don't have much trouble hooking up to various attachments but I make sure I am centered on the attachment too.

Glen,

The trouble I am having is getting the pins into the lift arms. They never seem to line up. the last time I connected it I had to use my BIG hammer to get the pins in. This was after I had greased them up. Then I did the top link then the PTO. Unfortunately there is also no one nearby to ask for some hands on guidance to show me what I am doing wrong. It always seems like the lower pins are the problem child with my tiller. All four wheels of the tractor and the tiller are on the floor.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #27  
Glen,

The trouble I am having is getting the pins into the lift arms. They never seem to line up. the last time I connected it I had to use my BIG hammer to get the pins in. This was after I had greased them up. Then I did the top link then the PTO. Unfortunately there is also no one nearby to ask for some hands on guidance to show me what I am doing wrong. It always seems like the lower pins are the problem child with my tiller. All four wheels of the tractor and the tiller are on the floor.

It sounds like you are not backing up dead straight- NOT easy, but the most important part of the task.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #28  
Glen,

The trouble I am having is getting the pins into the lift arms. They never seem to line up. the last time I connected it I had to use my BIG hammer to get the pins in. This was after I had greased them up. Then I did the top link then the PTO. Unfortunately there is also no one nearby to ask for some hands on guidance to show me what I am doing wrong. It always seems like the lower pins are the problem child with my tiller. All four wheels of the tractor and the tiller are on the floor.

It helps if you lower the draft links (the arms the actually hook on to your implement) a bit lower then the implement pins...maybe an inch lower. Also, you may have to adjust (lengthen or shorten) the lifting link (the connection between the draft arm and the rockshaft arms that actually lift the 3PH).

The draft arms can be lifted manually (that's why you lower them slightly below the implement pins). If the tiller isn't aligned to the 3PH, use a pry bar or similar to shift the tiller around. Hook up the left draft link first (this is because it has a solid (no adjustment) lifting link).
Then work on the right draft arm. You may have to adjust the lifting link (which has the threaded adjustment) and some final shifting of the tiller.

Pat's Easy Change does make this easier, as would a QH (but you may have to modify the tiller a bit with the QH).

I don't have a tiller, but I do have a rotary cutter. Now, those things (due to the length and weight) are a serious PITA to hook up and is why I went to the PEC system.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #29  
Glen,

The trouble I am having is getting the pins into the lift arms. They never seem to line up. the last time I connected it I had to use my BIG hammer to get the pins in. This was after I had greased them up. Then I did the top link then the PTO. Unfortunately there is also no one nearby to ask for some hands on guidance to show me what I am doing wrong. It always seems like the lower pins are the problem child with my tiller. All four wheels of the tractor and the tiller are on the floor.


Sounds similar to the issues everyone else has working alone and hooking up implements.

When you switch over to a quick hitch you eliminate most of these issues.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #30  
Glen,

The trouble I am having is getting the pins into the lift arms. They never seem to line up. the last time I connected it I had to use my BIG hammer to get the pins in. This was after I had greased them up. Then I did the top link then the PTO. Unfortunately there is also no one nearby to ask for some hands on guidance to show me what I am doing wrong. It always seems like the lower pins are the problem child with my tiller. All four wheels of the tractor and the tiller are on the floor.

I had the same problem with my KK 48" tiller and Kubota B7510. The free play on the 3pt. link arms just wasn't good enough for an easy fit. Trying to jocky around a 600 lb. tiller is no fun. The Harbor Freight Quick Hitch made hooking up the tiller quite easy. I did have to do some grinding on the lift hooks of the quick hitch to make for a smooth fit. Thanks to an inexpensive Harbor Freight grinder the job didn't take too long. So, the money (for the QH and grinder) was well spent. And, it's amazing what you can do with a grinder ;-)
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #31  
I could have sworn on my 1988 JD650 with the 3pt down I could take either lift arm and move it upward independently of the other lift arm which made hookups easier. This does not seem to be with the 2320. Am I just dreaming or.....just gettin old?
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #33  
I would WELCOME my PTO coupler being 3" - 4" rearward using an extender because of how cramped it is to make the connection - even with the shield removed (and it's not).

My big problem is that most (if not all) SCUT/CUT/UTs have INBOARD link adjustments, this means you cannot easily extend the lower links apart (outward) to move them around the lower pins. Tractors with OUTBOARD link adjustments do not have this issue and make for much easier hook-ups. The inboard adjusters also mean that the lower arms tend to drift togather and this is where the QA (iMatch) type systems are REALLY helpful during the connection process.

If I could find an inexpensive, yet secure way, to provide for a pinned link adjustment that would go a long way towards solving my connecting problems w/o the expense of an EZ change or QA system and the reduction in lift capacity that goes with them.

On a larger tractor the 3"-4" of extra lower lift arm length is almost inconsequential, but on SCUT/CUT models it can be a deal breaker with heavier impliments.

Because our tiller has an EXCELLANT pin-in-place system, I think I will simply modify all other impliments to match - that is remove the fixed (bolt in place) pins and weld on a "C" channel to accept slide-in pins. That will not help if the impliment is not level but it will make the connection operation much easier none-the-less.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #34  
SOME so called "quick hitches" really aren't.
They CAN be a mite quicker IF you come in dead straight and on axis.
If you don't get ON then you would be better off with just telescoping lift arm ends.
I don't mind getting off and on the tractor, I typically have to anyway for hooking up the PTO shaft. {Yeah, I know there are quick power hooks too - for the uber lazy}

BTW, how do the quick hitches work if/when the implement shifts a bit, i.e. one side drops slightly from where it was when you unhooked ?
{thawing ground, etc}
Do they DEPEND on the pins being within some fraction of an inch at the same height from the ground ?
What if your tractor is tipped slightly the other way ?
I don't hook/un-hook on flat concrete floors (-:
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #35  
BTW, how do the quick hitches work if/when the implement shifts a bit, i.e. one side drops slightly from where it was when you unhooked ?
{thawing ground, etc}
Do they DEPEND on the pins being within some fraction of an inch at the same height from the ground ?
What if your tractor is tipped slightly the other way ?
I don't hook/un-hook on flat concrete floors (-:


If you have HTL then it don't matter, my 12 year old can couple any implement I have with little effort. even without HTL you just have to be close. side to side don't matter, but you might have to move top link in or out if implement shifted down or back.

I have never had to get off the seat for non pto implement changes.
HTL and QH go together like copy and paste.

It's one of those things, you will never go back to being without if you try it.
Like going from dial up to cable/DSL.

JB.
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #36  
If you have HTL
JB.

That's a new one on me, JB...what's "HTL"?
(I know I'll slap my head and say "Duhhhh" when you respond)
 
   / Quick Hitch worth it? #38  

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   / Quick Hitch worth it? #39  
It was new to me a few years ago, But yeah, Roy you must not hang out in the hydraulic forum much :)

JB

You and Kennyd are right...I don't go to the Hydraulics forum.
Thanks for the responses, Gents!!


Duhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!
 
 

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