quote for 3037 premium cab

[edgarrian]

Hey fellas, I just got off the phone with the LS dealership here in Russiaville IN and they gave me a quote for the 3037 premium cab. It was 25k with the FEL. He priced the attachments seperatly
5ft box blade - 650
forks - 695
6ft tiller- 1895
rear blade- 499

Now this was pricing without me haggling. I informed him that i wasnt gonna buy until this summer and just wanted a feel for where they are. Im sure when i get ready to buy that with cash it will give me some haggling power. Im fairly certain that these prices similar to what others have paid but it doesnt hurt to check

I had also asked about a blade for the FEL with a angling kit and that was another 4k which seemed high to me. I suppose I could add it right before winter but i may see how the rear blade works. we dont get much snow in central indiana so probably not a big deal.

 

[George2615]

Cash always talks so it will knock some off the price.
I know if you shop around you can get forks and the back blade for a better price.
For a box blade I'd suggest at least 66" if available or a 72" to cover your tracks. The 3037 is 66" wide and a 5' BB won't cover the tracks.
For a rear blade you would also want to cover your tracks with the blade at full angle position.
I like my premium cab 3037HC. Glad I went that way.

 

[F3506]

Hey fellas, I just got off the phone with the LS dealership here in Russiaville IN and they gave me a quote for the 3037 premium cab. It was 25k with the FEL. He priced the attachments seperatly
5ft box blade - 650
forks - 695
6ft tiller- 1895
rear blade- 499

Now this was pricing without me haggling. I informed him that i wasnt gonna buy until this summer and just wanted a feel for where they are. Im sure when i get ready to buy that with cash it will give me some haggling power. Im fairly certain that these prices similar to what others have paid but it doesnt hurt to check

I had also asked about a blade for the FEL with a angling kit and that was another 4k which seemed high to me. I suppose I could add it right before winter but i may see how the rear blade works. we dont get much snow in central indiana so probably not a big deal.

I talked to an LS dealer today and was quoted $23,900 for the XR3037C. Another $1,400 for the hydrostatic transmission.

Cash always talks so it will knock some off the price.
I know if you shop around you can get forks and the back blade for a better price.
For a box blade I'd suggest at least 66" if available or a 72" to cover your tracks. The 3037 is 66" wide and a 5' BB won't cover the tracks.
For a rear blade you would also want to cover your tracks with the blade at full angle position.
I like my premium cab 3037HC. Glad I went that way.

The brochure I got says the width is 57.4" and the wheelbase is 66". You're sure the width is 66"? That will determine if I need a 5' or 6' mower if I get one of these.

 

[George2615]

I talked to an LS dealer today and was quoted $23,900 for the XR3037C. Another $1,400 for the hydrostatic transmission.



The brochure I got says the width is 57.4" and the wheelbase is 66". You're sure the width is 66"? That will determine if I need a 5' or 6' mower if I get one of these.

Yes, unless your getting R1's the R4 Industrial rear tire width is 66" which is the same width as the loader bucket.
Front to back wheelbase on axle centers is about 67". (May be 66", I didn't have an assistant to hold the other end of tape)
Front tire width is 54"
Just took some pics to confirm.

 

[edgarrian]

I talked to an LS dealer today and was quoted $23,900 for the XR3037C. Another $1,400 for the hydrostatic transmission.



The brochure I got says the width is 57.4" and the wheelbase is 66". You're sure the width is 66"? That will determine if I need a 5' or 6' mower if I get one of these.

What exactly is the hydtrostatic. Is that where you can move the lever forward and the tractor goes forward and then go backwards push it backwards without the clutch. thats how my dads kubota was. Im assuming this is what you guys mean by hydrostatic

 

[George2615]

What exactly is the hydtrostatic. Is that where you can move the lever forward and the tractor goes forward and then go backwards push it backwards without the clutch. thats how my dads kubota was. Im assuming this is what you guys mean by hydrostatic

What you describe is shuttle shift transmission.
Hydrostatic is like an automatic. The HST has a range selector with Low-Med-High and Neutral positions. You pick a range then on the right side floor there is a forward and reverse pedal. Engine RPM is set with the throttle control lever under the right side of the steering wheel. Speed is variable at the set RPM and can be controlled by how far you push the fwd. or rev. pedals. There is no clutch pedal. The PTO has an electronic switch to turn it on or off.

 

[edgarrian]

What you describe is shuttle shift transmission.
Hydrostatic is like an automatic. The HST has a range selector with Low-Med-High and Neutral positions. You pick a range then on the right side floor there is a forward and reverse pedal. Engine RPM is set with the throttle control lever under the right side of the steering wheel. Speed is variable at the set RPM and can be controlled by how far you push the fwd. or rev. pedals. There is no clutch pedal. The PTO has an electronic switch to turn it on or off.

Is this what most like to use when they get a tractor. Or best for a small tractor. Thanks for explaining it
I plan on test driving in about a week. Im not sure what they have on the lot.

 

[George2615]

Is this what most like to use when they get a tractor. Or best for a small tractor. Thanks for explaining it
I plan on test driving in about a week. Im not sure what they have on the lot.

I've owned and / or driven manual transmission tractors for over 50 years (started when I was 12). Most all were under 70 HP and all were gear or shuttle shift. In 2004 I bought my first tractor with HST and never looked back. HST is great for my purposes which are mainly snow plowing, brush mowing, rear blade and rake work, general yard and loader work. No gears to change, just set the RPM and press the HST pedal for fwd. or rev. Ease your foot off the pedal and the tractor stops. Much easier and faster than a manual trans. There are left and right brake pedals that I have never used other than to set the parking brake.
For ground engagement field (plowing, discing, cultivating etc.) work a manual trans would probably work better but I don't do any of that any more.

 

[F3506]

Thanks for the input George.

If you had it to do over again, would you make any changes in your purchase?

How old is yours? Tier 3 or 4?

 

[George2615]

Thanks for the input George.

If you had it to do over again, would you make any changes in your purchase?

How old is yours? Tier 3 or 4?

Mine is tier 4. All the XR series are tier 4.
I bought it new in Feb. 2014.
I'm very happy with the XR3037HC.
If I had it to do over I would have researched the selling dealer more. Shortly after my purchase (within a few months) I received a letter from LS stating he was no longer an LS dealer. I don't know what the reasons are that he is no longer a dealer but had I known this was going to happen I would have purchased from another dealer. I would have had to order and wait for the tractor from a different dealer. I bought from this particular dealer because I needed the tractor and he was next closest dealer with one in stock. In fact, because I needed it right away, a closer dealer referred me to him because he knew he had it on the lot.
LS was very good in contacting and referring me to the closer dealer who will perform any warranty work if needed.
I would have liked an XR4040HC or 4046HC but did not have a need for a larger tractor. The 3037 does everything I need it to do.