(R)CR-123 batteries - Dakota Alert

TnAndy · Nov 6, 2015

OK, question here on voltages.

My Dakota transmitters use 6 AA batteries, which I believe are connected in series to give 9v output to the unit.

Are you guys using a 12v battery using it DIRECTLY to the Dakota, or using some kind of voltage reducer to step 12v down to 9v? And if you're using a reducer, what kind and where did you get it ?

If I can feed 12v (which off a battery often runs closer to 13v) directly to the unit, that would be handy to know. I wondered if it would hurt the unit which is why I had not done it before.

Thanks !

RobA · Nov 6, 2015

The Dakota MURS transmitters use 4 CR123a batteries. 3 volts each. 12 volts total. Other Dakota products (non MURS) use different batteries.

TnAndy · Nov 6, 2015

Double post...forum software glich

TnAndy · Nov 6, 2015

RobA said:
The Dakota MURS transmitters use 4 CR123a batteries. 3 volts each. 12 volts total. Other Dakota products (non MURS) use different batteries.

Well, MY Dakota MURS transmitters use 6 AA batteries, 1.5v each.

Perhaps they have changed the design in the new ones......so my question stands. Is anyone using the type I have and feeding 12v into them ?

Edit:

OK, in reading on the Dakota site, the transmitter with the driveway magnetic probe has changed to using 4 CR123 batteries (mine uses 6 AA). The motion sensor transmitter still uses 6 AA batteries.

I just got off the phone with "Jeff" in technical support, and asked about using a 12v battery/solar panel setup for either of mine, and was told it would work....."just use a small battery, like an ATV battery, not a big car battery".....which makes me wonder if he knew what he was talking about, because 12 volts is 12 volts.....the difference being a larger battery simple has a whole lot more amp/hr capacity.

What the heck....I'll try it, and it will either work, or burn it up.

k0ua · Nov 6, 2015

I think you will need a voltage regulator. I would not put 12 volts into a circuit designed for 9 volts. I would build one. But I realise you may not have that skill set. I will try to help you find one later. I am going into a training class.

TnAndy · Nov 6, 2015

Thanks James....appreciate it. My thinking was the same...don't want 12v into a 9v design...which is why I had not tried it in the past. Just kept sticking double A's in them. But a small 12v with a solar panel would be a lot handier.

andy

JRobyn · Nov 6, 2015

Andy, I had exactly the same question before I bought my MURS (the MAP model) since I wanted to power it from my 12v gate operator battery. I thought I would need a 12vdc to 9vdc converter. Jeff at Dakota told me that the MAP TRANSMITTER circuitry was actually designed to use 12v, and the underground probe in the MAPS model could also use 12v, hence the change to the 4 CR-123, 3v cells for the MAPS. I believe that the PIR circuitry still uses 9v, but the actual transmitter in the PIR model is the same as the MAPS model. Good to know that Dakota will now acknowledge/allow 12v for the PIR circuitry as well.

He did give me the same caution about auto battery voltages since they typically run up to 13-14 v during charging, and that's why I'm concerned about using a non-regulated solar panel charger without a charge controller. In my gate/MURS, I am taking power from the gate controller board which IS regulated AND has a built-in solar charge controller. It has been working perfectly for almost 2 years. I just ran a lead from the gate board to the MURS through a tiny hole/grommet in the case and alligator clipped the leads onto the existing battery terminals.

James, if I understand everything correctly, I would just connect the battery, solar charging, and MURS transmitter all in parallel, so IF the solar panel (even a smaller one) was to ever output 14v+, this same voltage would be applied to the MURS. I think that to be safe, it will be best to use a small charge controller like - Amazon.com : Solar Controller 10a 12v/24v Solar Charge Controller Blovess Solar Panel Battery Regulator Safe Protection : Patio, Lawn & Garden. As the ad says, it "keep the load work well".

And only $10.

- Jay

k0ua · Nov 6, 2015

That sounds like a good strategy.
I was going to suggest something like this for a regulator, but if it can run on 12 volt, that and your charge controller might be a better strategy.

Amazon.com: JBtek DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 12A/100W DC 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V Step Down Volt Convert Module Suitable for Step-down Voltage Application, Like Battery, Power Transformers, DIY Adjustable Voltage Regulator and More

TnAndy · Nov 6, 2015

JRobyn said:
Andy, I had exactly the same question before I bought my MURS (the MAP model) since I wanted to power it from my 12v gate operator battery. I thought I would need a 12vdc to 9vdc converter. Jeff at Dakota told me that the MAP TRANSMITTER circuitry was actually designed to use 12v, and the underground probe in the MAPS model could also use 12v, hence the change to the 4 CR-123, 3v cells for the MAPS. I believe that the PIR circuitry still uses 9v, but the actual transmitter in the PIR model is the same as the MAPS model. Good to know that Dakota will now acknowledge/allow 12v for the PIR circuitry as well.

He did give me the same caution about auto battery voltages since they typically run up to 13-14 v during charging, and that's why I'm concerned about using a non-regulated solar panel charger without a charge controller. In my gate/MURS, I am taking power from the gate controller board which IS regulated AND has a built-in solar charge controller. It has been working perfectly for almost 2 years. I just ran a lead from the gate board to the MURS through a tiny hole/grommet in the case and alligator clipped the leads onto the existing battery terminals.

James, if I understand everything correctly, I would just connect the battery, solar charging, and MURS transmitter all in parallel, so IF the solar panel (even a smaller one) was to ever output 14v+, this same voltage would be applied to the MURS. I think that to be safe, it will be best to use a small charge controller like - Amazon.com : Solar Controller 10a 12v/24v Solar Charge Controller Blovess Solar Panel Battery Regulator Safe Protection : Patio, Lawn & Garden. As the ad says, it "keep the load work well". And only $10.

- Jay

Thanks Jay for the 'field tested' report

I've got several small charge controllers around, just need to pick up a panel. I already use solar to keep a battery on my tiller trickle charged (5w panel, no controller), and on my sawmill battery (40w panel, with CC). Had a controller die on my sawmill system, and ordered 3 from Amazon (to get free shipping and have some spares). Way more amps than I'd need in this situation, but I've got them laying around, and the one on the mill has held up (the original from Northern Tool died in about 4 months)

Amazon.com : Docooler 10A 12V/24V Solar Charge Controller Solar Panel Battery Regulator Safe Protection : Patio, Lawn & Garden

I'm a big fan of solar. Run my whole place off it.

JRobyn · Nov 7, 2015

You DO have just a few watts there, eh?

That is exactly the controller I just ordered. I had a slightly different $14 one in my cart, but then saw one of the Amazon sellers had the Docooler one for just $5.99, so got that one. Amazon.com : Docooler Solar Charge Controller Solar Panel Battery Regulator Safe Protection (10A) : Renewable Energy Charge Controllers : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Debated if I'd need a 10w panel or if 5w would do. Really liked the smaller size of the 5w, so hope it'll be ok. Not the cheapest panel but it looks to be well made. Amazon.com : Solar Panel 5 Watt 12V Poly Crystalline-Grade A Cells-Diode-5W Panels : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Also got a little better box than the cheapest because it looks like it will stand up long-term outside better than some others. Amazon.com: ESPi EC-1 Outdoor Enclosure Outdoor PVC Enclosure, 8" W x 4" H: Electronics

And the biggest battery that will fit in the box. Amazon.com: UPG UB1280I Sealed Lead Acid Batteries: Electronics

Seems kinda silly to be spending $75 just to avoid changing some inexpensive batteries, but I really like solar too, and we have become utterly dependant on our Dakota Alerts to know both when any vehicles are moving about on the property and what direction they're moving thanks to the multiple zones! I want to be certain that they are both working reliably, so having a good solid power supply for the non-gate-connected one will be worth the cost IMHO.

- Jay