R1 vs R3 or 4 Traction

[Texasmark]

If there ever was a question, I have proven it on my 2400. Bought it with R4s, replaced with R3s, and now have R1s on the rear and traction is night and day and I removed a pair (had 2 pair now only 1) of rear weights I used on the 1s and 3s. Other thing is that I can run 10 psi (for a softer ride) with the R1s and the 3s and 4s would slip on the rim at that air pressure.

 

[buck12]

Well heck now if you settle green vs orange and Ford vs Chevy then we can close TBN. By the way it’s orange and Ford and both my tractors have R4s

 

[Threepoint]

Great, Texasmark! Now whenever the issue comes up in the future, we can all just link to this thread and save the bandwidth! :laughing:

 

[Texasmark]

Great, Texasmark! Now whenever the issue comes up in the future, we can all just link to this thread and save the bandwidth! :laughing:

Sounds like a plan. Seems to me that the purpose of forums is to inform the uninformed and save them the cost and frustration of having to reinvent "the wheel".....er ah in this case, which tire to put on/order on their next tractor purchase, or what works for which application. I'm a farmer and the 2400 is the only tractor I ever had with R4s (was what the dealer stocked when purchased) and is the last. I know I consult forms for that purpose and they work for me.....big time.

 

[BRMyers]

So, it seems that R1 is great for AG work, not so good for lawn work. R3 is great for lawn work, not so good for AG work, and R4 is a compromise between the two and master of neither AG or lawn work.

 

[Texasmark]

So, it seems that R1 is great for AG work, not so good for lawn work. R3 is great for lawn work, not so good for AG work, and R4 is a compromise between the two and master of neither AG or lawn work.

I have seen pictures of a compromised tire, don't have the nomenclature, that is an R4 but every other (staggered) lug is missing, giving you the spacing needed between lugs to grip soft soils while plowing, yet giving you the constant road contact of the R4. Then there is the R! with the complex shaped lug for best traction at the tips yet best road contact in the mid section, and radials vs bias for even better traction and on and on.

 

[BRMyers]

I have seen pictures of a compromised tire, don't have the nomenclature, that is an R4 but every other (staggered) lug is missing, giving you the spacing needed between lugs to grip soft soils while plowing, yet giving you the constant road contact of the R4. Then there is the R! with the complex shaped lug for best traction at the tips yet best road contact in the mid section, and radials vs bias for even better traction and on and on.

Would it be these that you are talking about (R14)

Titan International - R14T Crossover Tire for Compact Tractors

 

[ptsg]

Heck! You might still end up with Radial R1 tires. :laughing:

 

[RobertN]

We figured that out back in '98 when this site started. New Holland Blue and Dodge/Cummins!

Although back then I had a Kubota and a Farmall A; I still am partial to old Farmalls.
During a software upgrade in 2000, a bunch of us oldtimers had our '98-99 join dates reset. Back then there was only about 75 people on the forum... It was a Kubota site back then.

Well heck now if you settle green vs orange and Ford vs Chevy then we can close TBN. By the way it’s orange and Ford and both my tractors have R4s

 

[rScotty]

Well that's simple enough. Going by main use, it's Ag R1's for traction in the field, Turf R3s for the lawn, and Industrial R4s for a compromise.

So is it best traction? Least damage? Or compromise? At least we get a choice.

As for use on slopes, well.... I prefer not to be there at all. Though if I have to go there I'll go with R3 turf tires. Not because turfs are so wonderful on slopes, but because both the other choices are worse - being narrower, higher, and with less side resistance.

BTW, I run 8 to 12 lbs pressure in the rears, work them hard, and never have had a tire slip on a rim.

rScotty