R1 vs R4 Tire Selection

[Rockin' G Ranch]

I have a Kubota L4740 HST 4x4. It has 17.5L - 24 R4 tires on the rear that are worn. I need to buy new tires but I am not sure what the best selection is. Most of my work will be bushhogging, preparing fields for food plots and FEL work. I also do some work in my yard tilling for my garden and leveling dirt. I do very little driving on the road. I know the R4 would do less lawn damage but I'm not sure how well they work in the field. Also what size would be best? I have seen 14.9 - 24, 16.9 - 24 in ag tires along with the 17.5 - 24 in R4. Also, should I get 6, 8 or 10 ply? Is any brand better than the others? Should I get tubeless or install tubes? Sorry for all the questions but these tires are very expensive so I want to be sure I get what I need.
Please offer your suggestions. Thanks.

 

[lungdoc]

My understanding is R4's are better for FEL work and bushhogging due to stiffness of sidewall and toughness to penetration respectively. The R1's are better for ground engaging work especially in loose or muddy conditions.

 

[houstonscott]

Titan | America's Best Since 1898

This site might help you decide.

HS

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Titan | America's Best Since 1898

This site might help you decide.

HS

Thanks for the response. My current tires are Titan Grizzleys. I visited the site but it didn't offer tire recommendations. I'm hoping some of you have used both and various sizes and have a favorite for my type of work. Thanks again.

 

[LD1]

Just to be clear, are you just replacing the rears???

And also, when swapping from r4's to R1's, usually the the rim is different, as is the over all height, which will screw up your 4wd. So unless you plan on 4 new tires AND 4 new rims, it might be best to stick with what you have. Are you satisfied with the tires you have now (other than them being worn out?)

 

[johnrex62]

It doesn't sound like you will be doing much in soft dirt, where the R1s will shine. I would save the rim money and stick with the R4s unless you were really dissatisfied with them.

If you are just looking to experiment, I would suggest haunting craigslist or auctions and look for a bargain on some used wheels (tires and rims) to play with. Just remember to swap the full set, front and rears so your ratios will stay in synch for the 4wd.

 

[TripleR]

Pretty much what johnrex62 and LD1 said. While you can mix tires, you have to be careful and as mentioned may cost a bit. We have a MF375 with turf/orchard on the rear and ag on the back.

Maybe not an apples to apples comparison, but my 5030 has Industrials and our M8540 has Ags and the only time you can really tell the difference is in mud.

Now if you are going to be running in loose dirt a lot doing heavy pulling, I would go with Ags.

I just put a new set of Titan Industrials on the 5030 and got 8 ply.

 

[Sockwell]

I have the same basic uses and went through the same scenario with a L5740. The tractor was ordered with R4's but was delivered with Ag tires. I thought long and hard about keeping the Ag tires until I found the difference in load rating. The front Ag tires have a maximum load rating of 1390 pounds. The R4 front tires have a max. Load rating of 3500 pounds. That's a big difference for loader/grapple work. The dealer is coming tomorrow to swap them out.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have R1's and my uncle has R4's and he has 7 more HP. I can flat out work him any day of the week in the woods, snow, or fields. As for loader work we both have them and I can not tell any difference in 8 years for me and 7 years for him. We both mow our yards and I can honestly say my R1's do no more damage than his R4's and the few times he has gotten stuck in the woods or trails he has done lots of damage. I have yet to be stuck.

I would go for R1's unless cost of rims becomes a factor. Yes, R4's look cool but that is where it ends for me. Just look at what real farmers use, that tells the story for me.....

Chris

 

[TripleR]

I have R1's and my uncle has R4's and he has 7 more HP. I can flat out work him any day of the week in the woods, snow, or fields. As for loader work we both have them and I can not tell any difference in 8 years for me and 7 years for him. We both mow our yards and I can honestly say my R1's do no more damage than his R4's and the few times he has gotten stuck in the woods or trails he has done lots of damage. I have yet to be stuck.

I would go for R1's unless cost of rims becomes a factor. Yes, R4's look cool but that is where it ends for me. Just look at what real farmers use, that tells the story for me.....

Chris

I live right in the middle of a bunch of "real farmers" and yes, their field tractors have Ag tires, but their utility tractors usually have Industrials. Our renters had their JD 4610 with eHydro and Industrials out here repairing a washout. Their field tractors are JD 7000 and 8000 Series.

We have all types and I have found for multiple use, just about any tire is going to be a compromise in one area or the other.

One thing not mentioned is type of soil, we have really hard clay in most places, if we had soft ground/sandy loam our results may be different.

We don't have snow often enough for it to be a consideration, but if we did, I would probably have to get some chains.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Just to be clear, are you just replacing the rears???

And also, when swapping from r4's to R1's, usually the the rim is different, as is the over all height, which will screw up your 4wd. So unless you plan on 4 new tires AND 4 new rims, it might be best to stick with what you have. Are you satisfied with the tires you have now (other than them being worn out?)

I was planning on replacing only the rears. The front tires are in good condition. I shouldn't have a problem with my 4wd ratio as long as I replace with the same tire diameter (which I plan to do). Would I have to replace rims if I went with 16.9-24 R1?
I bought this tractor used and the rear tires were 95% worn when I got it so I have no experience in how they performed when new.
BTW, I can get the R1 and R4 for the same price (~$500/ea) but the R1
requires a $50 tube.

 

[bigbull338]

if you have R4 rims then that is your only choice.an if you have R1 rims then thats your only choice.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

if you have R4 rims then that is your only choice.an if you have R1 rims then thats your only choice.

Thanks. That answered my question. I will get the R4 tires.

 

[pat32rf]

I grew up with R1's, my first little orange tractor (used) had R1's, so when I ordered my green machine I wanted R1's.
The dealer couldn't find one within 1000 miles. Everything had R4's, but they were $500 more. Finally we split the difference and I took the R4's.
Enlarged the chains off the old R1's and haven't looked back since....
I do very little ground tilling work, but spend most of the time on the trails, in the bush or on my lawn. Chains on in the fall when the rain comes and the leaves get slippery, they stay on for the winters ice and snow, then come off after the spring mud is gone. Meanwhile I get floatation spring, summer and fall. Just wish I could adjust the rims wider. (I've already turned them inside out for chain clearance)

 

[Qapla]

This article has some nice information about tires.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

This tire appears to have a very aggressive tread. Is this the normal tread for a R4 tire?
17.5L-24 10pr Backhoe R4 Tractor Tire,17.5Lx24,2 Tires | eBay

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

I was told a 16.9-24 R1 and a 17.5-24 R4 require a 15" wide rim. So why couldn't I install R1 tires on my existing R4 rims?

 

[PoorPlowboy]

I was told a 16.9-24 R1 and a 17.5-24 R4 require a 15" wide rim. So why couldn't I install R1 tires on my existing R4 rims?

I don't see why you couldn't. I've switched from R1 to 4s and vice versa on my MF 251 without any issues. I'm 2wd though, so had one less calculation to make.

 

[LD1]

I don't see why you couldn't. I've switched from R1 to 4s and vice versa on my MF 251 without any issues. I'm 2wd though, so had one less calculation to make.

The rims will probabally be fine, but you need to look at the overall diameter, or the rolling circumfrence of the tires you have and compare to the tires you want to buy.

Firestone All Traction Utility R-4 Tire 17.5L24

Firestone Field & Road R-1 Tractor Tire 16.9x24

Here is just an example. The R-1's are 3" taller, and have a 10" longer rolling circufrence vs the r4's. (145 vs 155)

That means, the R4 only travels 145" per revolution or 12'1" and the R1 is 155", or 12"11".

This may play havoc with your 4wd. Your fronts may want to try to cover MUCH more ground than the rears. So think of it this way, for every revolution of a rear tire (if you get the r4's) is like skidding the fronts for 10". I wonder how long the fronts are going to last??

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

That means, the R4 only travels 145" per revolution or 12'1" and the R1 is 155", or 12"11".

This may play havoc with your 4wd. Your fronts may want to try to cover MUCH more ground than the rears. So think of it this way, for every revolution of a rear tire (if you get the r4's) is like skidding the fronts for 10". I wonder how long the fronts are going to last??

My L4740 HST 4wd owners manual calls for standard:
front tires 8.3-16 (circumference 94")
rear tires 14.9-24 (circumference 149").

There has to be a gear reduction somewhere to account for the difference in circumference. As I see it, as long as I maintain a rear to front circumference ratio of 149:94 I would be adhereing to the
owners manual specification.

I currently have:
front tires 10-16.5 (circumference 91")
rear tires are 17.5-24 (circumference 145")
So my ratio is 145:91. Very close to the owners manual specification.

Is this correct or am I missing something?