Radiant floor heat

   / Radiant floor heat #21  
From:
http://www.radiantdesigninstitute.com/page35.html

USING ANTI-FREEZE IN A HEATING SYSTEM:

Never use any type of automobile anti-freeze in a heating system. We do not recommend anti-freeze in heating system, PEX tubing is never damaged by freezing and there are better ways to protect the boiler. I have seen many boilers destroyed by antifreeze but only one destroyed by freezing, and that one was in Fairbanks AK. It would not do any good to protect the heating system and not protect the plumbing system.
Radiant heating systems store a tremendous amount of heat in the floor and will give you several days protection from freezing, plus the Pex tubing is not damaged by freezing.

IF YOU ARE CONCERNED ABOUT FREEZING YOU CAN PURCHASE A SIMPLE AND INEXPENSIVE 12 VOLT SYSTEM THAT WILL AUTOMATICALLY RUN YOUR HEATING SYSTEM WHEN THE POWER IS OFF
 
   / Radiant floor heat #22  
For what it's worth, windshield washer solvent is a 50-50 solution of water and methanol.
 
   / Radiant floor heat #23  
I think there is a bit of miscommunication. Around these parts 'RV antifreeze' is polypropylene glycol. I believe you use it in the plumbing of the RV/trailer/whatever when you are storing it so the pipes don't break.
7/8 diameter PEX? , I reckon thats about 60 gallons plus the boiler. It will add up. I feel a little bad I dumped mine out....
 
   / Radiant floor heat
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I have checked the pricing of used anti freeze and it is
$12.50 per 5 gal.
I think what is going to happen here is I will just use Water
and I am also going to put in a gas heater which will not need
and elctric to run it.

I also del. the src in the name tag will see if it works.

Doug
 
   / Radiant floor heat #25  
<font color=blue>I think what is going to happen here is I will just use Waterand I am also going to put in a gas heater which will not needand elctric to run it</font color=blue>

How do you propose to circulate the fluid through the system?
Circulation pumps run on electric.
 
   / Radiant floor heat
  • Thread Starter
#26  
The gas heater will keep the heat in the building
it needs No electric.
Hoping that every thing would be back on line before the outer
edges freezes.
I am told that it would take about 2 to 3 days for the heat in the slab to go away.
The longest time the electric has ever been out here in the 20 yrs. has been 24 hours

Doug
 
   / Radiant floor heat
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Hoping that the added heat from the gas heater will keep
the temp high enough so that the water in the tubes will not frezze
Doug
 
   / Radiant floor heat #28  
I have radiant in floor heat and no antifreeze. Hell the slad stay warm 12 to 15 hours with the heater off! We always have power in that amount of time. I think it's a waste of $$$

And "don't" get totally freaked about the possibility of a repair. All you do is get an IR thermometer and spot the break by a change in temperature or wet spot. Granted it be a PIA but it is not the end of the world. Just have to chip out the area and put in a splice and fill it back with hydro cement. I love this heating system - too bad I didn't put it in the greenhouse too.

I would be more concerned about the hardness of water that goes into the system. I am thinking about adding a reverse osmosis system to get water for my heating system and the hydroponics units. I hate the thought of lime inside the tubing.

DrDan
 
   / Radiant floor heat #29  
Dan, don't think you'll have a problem unless your system is "open", in other words, is always circulating fresh water, like if you were also taking the same water out of the system and using it at sinks, etc. In a closed system, even if the water is hard, there is only a limited amount of "hardness" in the form of minerals. I've been running a radiant system for over 20 years now, with hard water, and no buildup. If your really worried, you could fill it with your softened household water supply and be done with it, but it really isn't necessary.
 
   / Radiant floor heat #30  
I agree as I've had a radiant heat system with just hard water running for 35 years, and nothing has collected in the heat pipes. If I have to manually add water, then I make sure the boiler heats to bring the water up to hot, so the oxygen is driven off, and corrosion from trapped oxygen can't take place (known as de-gassing the water). One can rust a boiler out quickly with automatic keep-fill valves that allow un-degassed water into the system when the boiler isn't running. There is a special boiler water treatment that the heating dealer should know about if wanting to treat the water for some reason.
 

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