Radiator cap is way NASTY!

[Momboy007]

Hello All and especially Larry G.,
Well, I found out I do have a ball valve, just like you said Larry, and I was able to get it turned 1/4 turn clockwise and it began draining. I did all the things you said to Larry and it turned out good, mine was not too bad though, it appears it had anti-freeze in it already and was fairly clear, thank goodness, but the radiator cap was really bad, so it was replaced with the part number you gave me and NAPA had them in stock.
Do you think I will need to look at my Thermosstat? or do you think it should be O.k.? The tractor always seems to run very cool, even in the Summer here in Southern Cal.

Thanks again all for the great help
Rick

 

[GuglioLS]

......Snip......
Do you think I will need to look at my Thermosstat? or do you think it should be O.k.? The tractor always seems to run very cool, even in the Summer here in Southern Cal.
Thanks again all for the great help
Rick

Rick,
You have a Jinma 354 right? and it has the three cylinder TY395 engine correct? If so then to answer your thermostat question - yes it needs attention, in fact it needs a new modified thermostat, a replacement (homemade) gasket and a rubber seal also home made on top of the new thermostat.

Here is the Jinma Thermostat fix -
The following is a solution to solve the cold operating temperature on a TY395 engine (Jinma 354)
After receiving my tractor and using it quite a bit, I discovered the engine operating temp would never get above 40*c (104*F), and it took forever to get to that cool temperature.
After removing the T-Stat housing and T-Stat, I made a mechanical observation that is the cause of the problem and suggest the following solution.

My Tractor: 2005 Jinma 354LE, Engine: Y395 E-3 (EPA)
The stock T-stat: 57* c (134.6* f) (way too low). Read on and you will discover that is only half the problem.
These engines should warm up faster and run at 180* F (82*c)
Purchase a NAPA # 133 T-stat, or a "Stant" brand T-Stat # 13548 which is 82* C (180* F)
Either T-Stat will have to be modified to fit.
Don't try and use a T-stat that does not look exactly like the stock one. I.E one of those flat looking auto t-stats because the bypass won't work and there will be temp and pump problems.
You could, if you so desire use the stock T-Stat with the addition of a large o-ring on top of the T-Stat. This will seal the gap between the top of the T-Stat and housing that it is enclosed in. If you do this please drill a very small hole in the top of the t-Stat to eliminate air lock in the coolant system. The ones from NAPA already has one of those little giggle valves.
Click on the below picture - it shows in detail why the engine never warms up:



My lathe was used to turn down the Stant T-Stat flange to 2-9/16"
If you do not have a lathe you could use a bench grinder to carefully grind it down to the right size.



After installing this fix, the engine will come up to operating temp after only 15 minutes (no load @ 900 RPM)

Here are a few more details of what need to be done to an after market thermostat in order for it to work:



I know quite a few guys that have done this and it is guaranteed to fix the Jinma 354 low operating temperature, it will make a huge difference.

Larry

 

[Momboy007]

Larry,
I have a Jinma 304, but I think the motor is a 395 3 Cylinder made in 09/2005. I do have a problem though that it will only hit the mark between cold and 80C.
I would love to do this mod, but do not have a lathe to turn it on. Any suggestions?
Thanks again for all your wonderful help
Rick

 

[GuglioLS]

"I would love to do this mod, but do not have a lathe to turn it on. Any suggestions?"

Sure Rick,
Use a bench grinder or belt sander to rough grind / sand down the edges, then use a hand file to fine tune it. The grinder wheel will get clogged with brass though. Or you could ask me to turn one down for you. I've turned quite a few of these on my lathe. I once sent one to a Jinma 354 owner in Santiago Chile, South America. I wonder if any of the reputable dealers have ever performed this fix? It's easy enough and in my book a must do mod.

Larry

 

[Momboy007]

Larry,
I would love to have you turn one for me, what would it cost?
Also, it seems when my motor gets warmer, towards the 80C mark, it runs better, more power it seems, would this be correct?

Please let me know your thoughts and thanks again,
Rick

 

[GuglioLS]

I'll send you a PM

Larry

 

[Momboy007]

Hello Larry,
Got your P.M. and P.M'd 'ya back
Rick

 

[Bob Rooks]

Also, it seems when my motor gets warmer, towards the 80C mark, it runs better, more power it seems, would this be correct?
Rick

Most definitely, on both counts. Thermal efficiency.

 

[jaroban]

I know that I am a little late in the discussion but my Jinma 224 Three cylinder has an original 15 psi radiator cap I had trouble with boil over every time I used it to brush hog. I went and bought another one at 15 psi and have not had any trouble. After reading this post I am concerned that I need to make a change to 7 psi. I took both caps and mashed the spring there is no comparison. The original is much softer. What do you think? Robby

 

[greg_g]

I know that I am a little late in the discussion but my Jinma 224 Three cylinder has an original 15 psi radiator cap I had trouble with boil over every time I used it to brush hog. I went and bought another one at 15 psi and have not had any trouble. After reading this post I am concerned that I need to make a change to 7 psi. I took both caps and mashed the spring there is no comparison. The original is much softer. What do you think? Robby

I think whoever told you the OE cap was 15psi was in error. If your OE had a 0.3 stamped on it, that's only 4.4 PSI. If it had 0.43 stamped on it, that's only 6.3 PSI. If there was a 15 on it, I'm sure it represented something other than PSI - they're metric caps.

Anyway - of course an open cooling system will overheat with the wrong cap. A 15 PSI cap holds steam in way past the boiling poing. Matter of fact, I bet your radiator seams seep and your hoses leak under the clamps.

Metric caps (aftermarket) are hard to find though, so I went to a 7 PSI, then converted my tractors to closed cooling systems (overflow tanks with returns). I also use anti-cavitation coolant.

//greg//