Radiator repair

[deepNdirt]

Well it happen!
last week while having some seat time moving dirt about 200 ft for 5 hours, I got a bit impatient with my travel speed so I revved-er-on-up,
apparently too much, after a moment I began to smell hot antifreeze, I figured it was blowing into the overflow bottle, but just in case I decided to shut-er down to take a look, What I found is the dust from when moving the dirt must have halfway clogged the radiator causing it to build up pressure swelling the radiator and slightly opening the seam at the top where it's put together,
I've attempt to make the repair myself with solder although it is still leaking ( slightly ) I dry everything off and watch for where the fluid may be coming from? (nothing) it's not until the next day after sitting a while when I note a small amount of fluid laying in the bottom of the shroud,... No more than it is leaking at this point I can probably continue to use the tractor and simply keep a check on the water... Though I do know how important it is for this make of tractor ( ym1700 ) and it's type cooling system needs to be optimal in order to keep the water circulating,
Should I go ahead a replace the radiator? ( who has them ? ) should I take it completely off and have it tank tested and let a professional repair it? ( what expense am I looking at ) the weather has been rainy here so I haven't had a opportunity to actually use the tractor to get it up to working temperature to see what happens,

 

[ray66v]

The first thing I would do is replace the radiator cap. It was supposed to be the weakest point, and it should have relieved the pressure before there was any damage to the radiator. If it is a standard automotive radiator cap, and it has pressure ratings on it, you can try going down one step so it blows sooner. This will keep less pressure on the radiator.

I believe most people are going to tell you to replace the radiator. However, if you can do a good job of repairing it, (or get it to a radiator shop), and don't mind working with one eye on the temperature gauge, (not a bad practice anyway), you certainly could use it.

I am sure a new one will be costly, most will argue a new engine due to trying to use a damaged radiator, is also costly.

 

[deepNdirt]

Replacing the cap brings up a good point, I always clean the radiator screen and monitor the overflow catch bottle after each time I use the tractor if when used for long period of time, the bottle almost always has estimated 6-ounce of fluid in it so I know the cap has been allowing the water to enter the overflow, although as you stated this last time it may not have, resulting in the pressure building up and blowing out the seam,
OK now I am assuming by closely examining the radiator that it has swollen, what I really would like to see or know is to clarify if it has in fact swollen or if perhaps this is the way they are suppose to be, can anyone provide this information? if you would please take time to look closely at your radiator and see if it looks straight /flat or slightly bulged front and back side?
this will help me to decide if I need to go ahead and replace the radiator? or weather to have it properly repaired,
Thanks Folks!

 

[BobRip]

I had a 66 Impala that had a radiator leak. I had it fixed twice by professionals and twice myself. After looking back at all the effort and aggravation, I think I should have just bought a new one. I spent far more on the towing and repairs than a new one would cost.

 

[Car Doc]

You are doing as good a job as can be done looks like but its time for professional repair or replacement though.

I speak from experience here on a repair-let a radiator shop do it they vat them in a mild acid that completely cleans it and solder will actually stick plus you have leaks ready in other places you dont know about yet.

That and they can rod the tubes out and get the efficiency back mostly and pressure check. Definitely get a new cap btw thats good advice. good luck

 

[Soundguy]

unless you have added a water pump from a 2000, that ym1700 is a thermosyphon system... also.. make sure you do not get too strong a coolant concentration.. it can effect the thermosyphon.

as tot he repair.. It looks like you have had at least some exp soldering.

I'd pull her out, drain rad.. clean up.. and go at it again.. using flux.. lots of flux. the more the better..

I have a rad in a ford 850 that is probably more solder than brass, copper or aluminum..

 

[clemsonfor]

This is me, but i would buy a new one. I think there $250 from Hoye tractor. You can also find them on ebay for about the same maybe a little less.

NO my radiator does not buldge, its pretty flat looking, at least i have had an original and now a replacement and they seem flat. Did not go look yet as im at work.

But seriously this tractor has worked for you and had little in repairs go into it. If you can swing the $$ i would buy a new one just to make sure your back to specs.

Just a roding out/ check i think will run you at least $50 and if there sodering i can see another $30-50. Your close to halfway to a new one at that point. And unless you just cannot bear another $150 i would go new. This is just me though.

Like said before i think the peice of mind on this engine is worth it, thats way cheaper than surfacing head , new gasket and potentially liners or piston.

Oh and i do know that Rads can be serviced and serve life fine for years after, just on these deisels i am more worried about heads blowing than in a gasser.

 

[Car Doc]

I dont know where the radiators come from that are being sold for these but every single radiator I install anymore is china or some other foreign country.

They are pretty cheaply built and most are aluminum/plastic construction occasionally I see a metal one but still cheaply built though. They work most of the time and fit terribly all the time and sure are not like OEM stuff that used to be made here or Japan like nippondenso etc.

 

[deepNdirt]

I don't know where the radiators come from that are being sold for these but every single radiator I install anymore is china or some other foreign country.

They are pretty cheaply built and most are aluminum/plastic construction occasionally I see a metal one but still cheaply built though. They work most of the time and fit terribly all the time and sure are not like OEM stuff that used to be made here or Japan like nippondenso etc.

Yeah I have seen what you mean, I replaced the one on my wife explorer last year, the one I received as a replacement was different in many ways, (more plastic )when reinstalling the shroud there was a 1" gap at top and bottom between the radiator and shroud, It look like some sort of filler pc. would be needed to close off the gap so the air would draw completely through the radiator instead of partly through the gaps, though I have been running it like this all this time with no issue's
The radiator from my tractor is certainly all metal or actually copper & brass maybe Some aluminum, I'd hate to give up a solid built radiator for a el-cheap-o built one, maybe as mentioned I'll take it to a shop and have them give an estimate on properly repairing it , that is if it can be repaired,

 

[Car Doc]

Yup thats what I see all the time too. Any decent radiator shop could build one of these from scratch it wont be cheap but it will last another 30 years too.

That and maybe you get lucky and this one can be torn down rodded and the core resoldered to the headers and it will be as good as new chances are fair to good I think. :thumbsup:

(my radiator shop gets $95 to do the tear down, rod and paint fwtw)