Rat Disaster. Need Electrical Help.

[oosik]

I had the same problem with a BRAND NEW car. Had to pay to have it towed back to the dealer and $895 for new wiring harness. And the insurance would not cover the cost. That was over twenty years ago - check to see if your insurance will cover this cost now.

My solution - one entire box of moth balls spread under each vehicle and MANY barn cats. No problems since.

 

[k0ua]

George look on the Kubota website, it looks like there are several connectors, dash panel, key, combinition(lamps) switch etc.
there are wiring diagrams you can look at and part lists.

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Parts List

 

[Mike from MI]

Do you happen to have kubota insurance. Not sure if this would be covered but worth a call.

 

[N80]

No insurance.

I have the factory service and parts manuals, so I have the wiring diagram and a picture of the main harness. It looks like the main harness is one big ol' octopus.

I was wondering about the brass wool shorting something out under there but did not think about a fire hazard. I'd still say chances would be pretty low.

 

[N80]

Scott, all the wires are the same size. 18 seems right.

 

[oosik]

George, Just because you do not have specific tractor insurance does not, necessarily, mean you tractor is not covered. My tractor is covered under my homeowners policy.

 

[dixiedrifter]

I work on electronics as a hobby. I could have those wired back together in no time. The trick is you just need a $4 harbor freight soldering iron, one of those red handled $5 wire strippers, some good 63/47 solder from radio shack and most importantly good flux. You want the rosin stuff, not the acid flux. Easiest way to tell you how to do it is to make sure your tip is clean, and as the iron is heating up wet the tip with the tip with the solder until you get a nice blob going on then let that heat up. Slip some heat shrink wrap tubing as far back away from where the two wires will join, apply liberal flux and just touch the blob to the wires. In a couple seconds it will flow onto them, let cool, slip the heat shrink tubing round the joined wires and take a lighter to it to shrink the tubing.

 

[TomSeller]

It could be wired back up in less time than reading this thread. Very good thread, but it seriously is not that difficult.

 

[/pine]

It could be wired back up in less time than reading this thread. Very good thread, but it seriously is not that difficult.

On the same note...it is not a skill with a difficult learning curve...with a modicum of eye-hand coordination the average klutz (m/f) can become quite adequate in a very short time...IMO a very useful skill every DYI'er should possess...

 

[Scott65]

On the same note...it is not a skill with a difficult learning curve...with a modicum of eye-hand coordination the average klutz (m/f) can become quite adequate in a very short time...IMO a very useful skill every DYI'er should possess...

I agree 100% with this. I can solder. Quite well in fact. I do it every day as part of earning a living, it's hard to imagine not being able to. I don't mean this in a rude way to those that can't. I mean once you know how, you realize there are a lot of tasks that are performed better with this knowledge. Let's not forget plumbing. Different heat source, same principle.

BUT, I do remember a time when I couldn't say this. I remember watching someone and they made it look so easy. But I, myself, didn't understand the workings behind it so when I tried I failed. Again and again. It's very frustrating. Especially when your trying to do it under the good of a car. Or, let's say, the dash of a tractor. Like many have suggested, practice on some spare wire, out on a solid surface. Watch some YouTube videos. It really isn't hard once you learn the "tricks". I really don't mean it to brag, only for perspective. For me, doing it every day, that bundle of wires would be about 15 minutes to solder, shrink, tape, and re loom

I don't think words could describe well enough how to do it. YouTube probably has lots of videos where you can see where to apply the heat and how it should flow. Grab one of these to hold your wires while you solder them, it's how i avoid twisting them as mentioned before:

It's an LI55000 from Lisle Tools but I'm sure other companies make them, maybe harbor freight.

The one thing I will say about how I do it that seems to be some different. Rather than twisting or bending, creating fat spots or weak spots to break later. I strip a quarter inch from each wire. Slide on about a 3/4" piece of heat shrink. Dip one of the wires in flux. I straighten the natural twist of the strands of wire so they will "mesh" together. It's kind of a trick to get them to stay just right, hence the tool pictured. Don't leave strands poking out, it's a short waiting to happen. If needed, twist a little after they are meshed together to get them to lay flat. Now apply heat to flow the flux, followed by solder.

Doing it this way with the magnetic tool and my thermostatic solder station to maintain the temp, I pre strip all the wires and each joint takes just a few seconds. The result is a soldered joint stronger than, and nearly as thick as the original insulated wire. The only added thickness is the heat shrink. My customers never can tell where I was