Ratchet Rake Questions - specific to our tractor bucket & our use

[dlctcg]

Looking at possibly purchasing a Ratchet Rake for our NH TC40D with pretty specific use in mind. I’ve read tons of threads on TBN (thank for all the info) & viewed multiple videos (most terrible) & pretty convinced on purchasing one… So without going into a huge debate on if it is a good tool or not; I’m more interested in information for our use.

I’m hoping to use the Ratchet Rake to pull back some of the stone / process (1 ¼ “minus) back into our drive. Our ½ + mile drive has culverts lined with Rip-Rap & over the years the stone/ process has migrated in to them. I’m not looking to completely remove the process from the culverts just pull back areas that have accumulated to much of it. Also not too worried if some if the Rip-Rap is disturbed as we can just place it back.

We have a Rake but is not really the tool for this & do not want to use a blade as I’m not looking to reform or disturbed the base of the culverts… I just want to move some of the top process layer back to the drive. I realize I will be only working 5+ feet of area at a time with the R.R. & that is ok.

I want to get the culverts back in shape prior to repairing & possibly topping the drive with new process.

A few questions regarding the Ratchet Rake:

Is there any reason the 68” version would not work with a 72” bucket that has a bolt on blade?
- Attached pic of bucket below

Do any R.R. owners use theirs in a similar fashion – pull stone back out of a culvert / ditch? And does it work well?
- Almost every video I watch showed it being used for removing brush / vines, etc. Which we may use it for also, but not the primary reason for the purchase.

Is there any really good reason to pay the extra $35 for the 72” version?
- If there isn’t I think I would stay with the 68” as it would be a little lighter to move around & I think will still meet my needs (& saves $35 if there really is no need for the 72”)

I know the R.R. use to be sold elsewhere (even here, I’ve read) & Tractor Supply. Is it only sold direct now?

Thanks in Advance…. & Sorry for the long post….

 

[Midniteoyl]

The 68" version says it fits buckets 60" - 72" and the binding points are 54" so I see no reason why you couldn't use it on your 72" bucket as long as you can use the binding locations.

The 72" is made from thicker plate however, so there is that.

 

[dlctcg]

Yeah, I saw the specs... I was wondering if there was any concern with it working with the bolts for the bolt on edge... didn't know if the R.R. will work with them...

 

[Midniteoyl]

ahh.. Only problem I see would be are the slots wide enough to accommodate the bolt on blade. You should give them a call. Otherwise the bolt on blade should actually help by increaseing the bucket's edge strength.

 

[fried1765]

ahh.. Only problem I see would be are the slots wide enough to accommodate the bolt on blade. You should give them a call. Otherwise the bolt on blade should actually help by increaseing the bucket's edge strength.

You are about to become a new friend of Jeff9366!
Jeff absolutely loves his ratchet rake!
Me......I dunno.

I have owned a ratchet rake for 5+ years, and have never even unboxed the mounting hardware.
To be fair: I have 3 rear blades, a box blade (also unused), 2 loader buckets, a tooth bar, a grapple, and an 11' reach backhoe.
I have just never had an application for my ratchet rake......so it sits, with the mounting straps in the original box!

You could simply call the Ratchet Rake mfg.(1-888-850-6070) and ask about the cutting edge bolt issue.

 

[jeff9366]

Do any R.R. owners use theirs in a similar fashion – pull stone back out of a culvert / ditch? And does it work well?

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Is there any really good reason to pay the extra $35 for the 72” version?

Each increment of width uses a thicker steel so the wider rakes have more weight of steel per foot of width concomitantly stronger. I once had a tooth break off. My local welding shop welded the detached tooth back on and I have not had another problem of any description.

 

[jeff9366]

You could simply call the Ratchet Rake mfg.(1-888-850-6070) and ask about the cutting edge bolt issue.

Yes. The mounting gap height dimension may vary by rake width. Correct RR fit over a reinforcing bucket edge has been a problem for at least one T-B-N contributor.

Is there any concern with a Ratchet Rake working with the bolts for the bolt on edge?

The RR can be moved from side-to-side so mounting hardware will miss the bolts. That will not be a problem.

If the mounting gap on the RR is a tight fit over the bolt-on edge on your bucket, after use you may need a sledge to break the RR free.

 

[fried1765]

1) Why not sell your NOS Ratchet Rake to the OP?

2) Yes. The mounting gap height dimension may vary by rake width.

I don't think mine is the width he wants.

 

[CoyPatton]

My concern is with your intended usage whereas much has been said on the mounting of the RR to the bucket. I would agree that a call to the mfg would be in order to discuss those specifics with.
Working ditches with any width bucket is always a pain. 1) pain is only can do the width of bucket (if lucky) and need to reposition, lots of time and frustration with this process.
Bigger issue, ditches are rarely even/smooth/whatever description you want to insert. This is in several areas 2 I will point out. A) the ditch bottom for drainage is pitched while your ground you are working from may slope a different direction do the angle of the ditch and the angle of the bucket do not match up, making raking near impossible. B) the sides of the ditch you want to rake up likely are not smooth, dips and rises in your raking path. So you lose material or pick up unwanted material as you rake up the ditch bank.

Then another issue—raking small material from among rip rap with a 5’+ flat rake. What a headache without the afore mention troubles. You want to leave the big stuff, but as anyone who has ever raked any rocks knows you leave behind the smaller stuff.

My only suggestion is a multi step process.
1) remove all rocks (or at least as much ad feasible)
2) a multi step separation process. Easiest to remove the stuff you want to return to the ditch. Most any rock bucket will accomplish this.
Then remove the processed gravel from the dirt. Screens are available for this, but my experience has been disappoint in the results. I either have most of my fines (the glue that keeps my gravel together) in the dirt making the dirt less useful in other places as this is often very rich dirt from runoff topsoil settling. Or large dirt clumps remaining in my gravel, making it less desirable in the driveway.
Now depending on your results, you have 3 piles, 1 to return to your ditch if you did not when it was separated, a 2nd to return to your driveway, and a 3rd to use for low spots in your yard.
My experience has taught me to leave that rock in the rip rap to help reduce the washing away of soil between the large rocks and add more material to the drive. I have thrown out some mortar near culverts to provide extra fines in areas prone to washing away.

 

[bigaledge32]

I like my RR and it works well for ripping out saplings and brush, mostly used it for tearing out honeysuckle that was stifling the tree growth. I would equate it to having an industrial duty rake on the blade of the bucket and I believe it would probably work for what you want it to do. They are very well built and don’t think it will ever wear out in my lifetime and they are fairly inexpensive. My 2 cents