Rate of O/A usage when cutting/welding?

[Jeepnford]

If you're reading on the subject it will probably tell you this but don't turn your acetylene where it flows more than 15 psi. It can become unstable and explode. Back your adjustment out before you turn the tank on,then turn it to 5 psi or whatever you're wanting to cut or weld.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

If you're reading on the subject it will probably tell you this but don't turn your acetylene where it flows more than 15 psi. It can become unstable and explode. Back your adjustment out before you turn the tank on,then turn it to 5 psi or whatever you're wanting to cut or weld.

Thanks. Being new that can not be stated too many times.

 

[mjncad]

Back your adjustment out before you turn the tank on,then turn it to 5 psi or whatever you're wanting to cut or weld.

That's good advice regardless of the gas type. I always depressurize and empty my MIG's line when I'm done. So I waste a bit of gas and wire doing this...no big deal.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Also for the newbies to OA works, never, ever use any kind of grease or oil on any parts in an oxyen acetylene rig. Compressed oxygen will cause the grease to spontaneously combust with resulting fire or explosion.
Keep all the bottles in vertical position. If you have to lay an acetylene bottle in horizontal position for transport, stand it upright and let it sit for at least 12 hours prior to use. Unless you are using large heating tips, the O2 usage will be about 10 times more than the acetylene use. 5-7 psi is max needed for acetylene, and 25-40 is plenty for the O2. Match the tip size to the work. I cant think of anyone in this forum needing any tips larger than an 0 which will cut 1" plate and make a really neat cut. Keeping the tip clean is the secret to a no slag cut. When setting the torch, open the o2 on the mixing barrel full open (the piece where the hoses attach ), then about a quarter round on the gas valve is usually enough, adjust the o2 with the valve on the cutting head just till you get the feathers to go away on the preheat flame and if you have a clean tip and the pressure is set correctly, when you hit the high pressure O2 you will get the old bacon frying sound and the blue flame will shoot out at least a foot from the tip in an elongated cone. If not, try adjusting the pressure up or down on the O2, if that doesnt give you the result, clean the tip with a good set of tip cleaners. After that, making a clean cut is just a matter of a steady hand and a steady rate of travel, not to fast and definetly not to slow. If you have a lot of slag on your cut, you probably have too mush gas and to hot of a flame. Good luck with your rig.

 

[Willl]

That's good advice regardless of the gas type. I always depressurize and empty my MIG's line when I'm done. So I waste a bit of gas and wire doing this...no big deal.

Don't understand, if it's only me in my shop to tinker with the the regs, whats the harm ?

 

[Willl]

Read what Gary wrote, decipher and suck it up.

Good post Gary.

 

[yomax4]

Caution. Some Rose Bud brands require " Equal Pressure " from O2 and Fuel Gas. ie: 5# O2/ 5# Propylene or Lp or Acet. Ect. Check your brand. If it's a Gypo Copy of a USA Torch I can not help you. Ask your supplier for Cutting and Welding Tip Charts to help you set your gas to match your Tip or Material Thickness.. Let me know if you need any for Victor.<---:thumbsup:

 

[mjncad]

Don't understand, if it's only me in my shop to tinker with the the regs, whats the harm ?

The safety gurus at NREL where I used to work drilled it into our heads to de-energize systems before working on them or storing them depending on what it was. If it's an electrical circuit, turn off the breaker; if a pressurized line, turn off the valve and drain the line as needed; if a mechanical system (e.g. springs, etc), release stored mechanical energy; if gravity can ruin your day, block it in case of failure (e.g. hydraulic hose, slings, chain, etc).

Mind you I don't do Lockout-Tagout at home.

Think of it as a good habit to get into and you're less likely to get injured or worse. I lock my car wherever I go including my garage; that way it's an automatic response. The same for using turn signals.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Safety procedures tell you to turn the regulators fully to the left till the pressure is 0 on all gauges. Remove the gauges from the bottles and place the cap on the bottles prior to moving the bottle cart or trying to relocate the bottles. You should also have a steel plate between the acetylene cylinder and the oxygen cylinder just in case you get a fire, it wont set off the O2 relief valve and start feeding the acetylene fire. You could have some serious fire if that happened. But I have regressed, I wanted to call attention to the issue of having the high pressure 2nd stage regulator twisted down and the bottle valve shut off. Eventually the pressure will likely bleed off and then you have a regulator that has the diaphram tightened to 40 psi or more. When the 2200 psi from a full bottle hits the diaphram, you could sent the set screw out like a bullet if the diaphram ruptures. This is why you should always, release all the pressure when you turn off the bottles, remove the gauges, cap the bottles and tie off your cart so it cant tip over. One other safety reminder, never stand in front of the gauges when turning on the bottles, just in case you have forgotten to reduce the pressure and alway crack the valves open slowly so the regulators pressure up slow. Also never use the high pressure oxygen to blow any dust etc. off your clothing. If you do this, all you need is a small spark to incinerate your clothes and cause severe burns or death.

 

[Willl]

Mind you I don't do Lockout-Tagout at home.

Think of it as a good habit to get into and you're less likely to get injured or worse.

How can you say both those things in the same post ? :laughing: