RDrancher's Photo Thread

   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#391  
That's another testimony to your work. The rental guy sure had the equipment to do that himself, right? He knew you would do it right, the first time.

I don't know if it is your camera lense distorting the pic, but just in case it isn't, did you notice your bucket looks bent or twisted on the loader? Just a heads up, in case it is important.

Thanks. Its just the lens. It does look pretty weird though!
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #392  
I have really enjoyed this thread whit all the photos of the projects. You are really good at what you do and have given me several ideas for projects.

Keep posting!
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #394  
Great work, I'm getting a lot of good ideas for a drive that I have to repair/upgrade. But this one has a shelter-belt running right down the length (300m) Have you ever struck problems with tree roots ? i.e. protruding through the soil before you put the drive down, do you put the drive over the top, put a ripper through the roots or take out the trees that are causing the problem??
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #395  
Always enjoyable when this thread gets updated!!
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#396  
Great work, I'm getting a lot of good ideas for a drive that I have to repair/upgrade. But this one has a shelter-belt running right down the length (300m) Have you ever struck problems with tree roots ? i.e. protruding through the soil before you put the drive down, do you put the drive over the top, put a ripper through the roots or take out the trees that are causing the problem??

If you run the rippers down the drive, you'll most likely make yourself a whole bunch of extra work trimming them off. Since we're talking gravel here, not asphalt or concrete, the roots won't "hurt" the driveway. I would leave them and spread gravel over the top. A photo of the roots and your drive would help.
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #397  
If you run the rippers down the drive, you'll most likely make yourself a whole bunch of extra work trimming them off. Since we're talking gravel here, not asphalt or concrete, the roots won't "hurt" the driveway. I would leave them and spread gravel over the top. A photo of the roots and your drive would help.

We will be laying asphalt over the top and that was the reason for considering removing them. The thinking has been, if we leave the trees in (Casuarina or she-oak) the roots will grow and cause bulging in the seal; if we rip them what's left will die, rot, and cause cavities which could collapse the seal. And if we remove the trees the roots will die etc.
To me it looks like over a period of time, traffic (there would probably be no more that 6 to 8 light vehicle movements per day) and rain have washed the clay away and exposed the roots.
The easiest approach would be to build up a thick layer of gravel and then seal. But that would cause problems with rain runoff and ponding. In the middle-distance is the lowest point in about 10 acres of Kiwifruit orchard and the water can lie there for days if the soil has been saturated.
It's my neighbours drive but I have to use it to get to my place at the far end (300m). Also I'm retired so have the time and the one with all the back muscles working so I get to do all the physical work.
 

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   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#398  
Unfortunately, it's going to be a choice between the trees and the asphalt if you can't thicken up the base substantially. With enough base material beneath the asphalt it could take years for the roots to be a problem, but it will happen eventually.

It looks like the drainage could be improved if you could knock out that high spot in the center by the dip. Is that a neighbor's driveway on the other side?
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #399  
Thanks for your comments, they are appreciated.
I think the neighbour is going to go ahead with the removal of the shelterbelt which will give me a lot work dropping the two hundred or so trees but I will also get a lot of firewood to sell next winter. That should keep the tax man happy.
Drainage will to be a problem as that "hill" in the distance is the regular level of the ground and the rain running down it has scoured out the drive and exposed the roots on that side too.

That is another neighbours dive on the other side of the shelterbelt. The shelterbelt runs east/west and our side is in the shade most of the time and takes a while to dry out.

One interesting point he has gone out for quotes to seal the drive and one company who quoted in April 2011 has failed and another has said they will do the job for the same price as in their previous quote.
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #400  
We do a bit of sidewalk r/r in Champaign/Urbana Il. They require roots be sawed on each side of the new walk . Supposedly , the key word , they won't come back . We rented a Vermeer walk behind . Run it down each side of existing walk , remove walk and roots as you grade for new walk . This unit runs on the walk with cutter wheel offset to the right . They may make one for a skidsteer . RD would know more about this .
 

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