Re-attaching decals

[Michigan_Mike]

One of the stripe decals on my 790 has started to come off.
Any ideas how to re-attach it?
Could I use a clear coat spray?
Thanks

 

[thcri]

Buy a new one and take the old one off. Clean it up real good and then put the new one on. This to me would be the best way to do it.


murph

 

[frank_f15]

get youself a small bottle of ELMERS GLUE put some on you finger and coat the back of the decal, then press it in place. The glue is white ,but dries clear. don't over do it, but put enough on that it squeezes out the edges and wipe the excess off. MY wife use it for many of her crafts. seems to work fine.

 

[PineRidge]

I may be mistaken Frank but I think Elmer's is only good for porous materials like paper, wood, cardboard and the like.

 

[notamustang]

I have seen things for moldings/trim to re-adhere but not decals. If it where mine and its not I would just pull it off and pull the other side off to match. JMO /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[frank_f15]

Hmm? you might be right.

 

[captain71c]

I worked in a body shop for quite a few years. We never found any type of glue that would reattach a decal and hold for any length of time. I would replace it.

 

[GerardC]

Replace it.

 

[KiotiJohn]

These decals can be expensive.
Try buying some Duco cement, and FOLLOW THE PREP INSTRUCTIONS, and cementing instructions to the tee, and you should have a good bond.
Afterward, you can paint over the stripe with clear nail polish for added protection and bonding. John

 

[Michigan_Mike]

Thanks all.
Based on the comments, here's my plan.
Straighten it out and apply some nail polish. Clear nail polish, making sure my wife doesn't notice that she's missing much. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If that doesn't work, replace it.

 

[Boomerang1]

If you install a new decal, mix some dish soap and water in a spray bottle. Peel the backing from the decal and spray a liberal amount on the back of the decal and the tractor. This will allow you to slide the decal around to the correct position. When you get it where you want it, squeegee out the water/soap starting from the center and work your way to the ends. I have never found anything that works to attach decals and have them look like they should.

 

[Jagmandave]

The guy who did my paint work said you shouldn't use soap, just clear water, cause soap leaves a film that might keep the decal from bonding well. He said just get a good fine mist on both the decal and the metal and then squeegee it from the middle out. My 2c

 

[chim]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( These decals can be expensive.)</font>

Especially depending on size. I repainted my Ford 1210 a few years ago, and ordered (almost) all the decals from a dealer. When it came to the "FORD 1210" decals that ran the length of the hood, my jaw dropped. They wanted $135 per side!

Fortunately I was chasing the decals before I started the work. I headed to a local sign shop that does a lot of truck lettering. He told me to take a couple photos of the "before" so he could match it. I did that, plus took long pieces of paper and made tracings. The guy did both sides of the hood for around $50....................chim

 

[Bird]

Chim, last month my brothers were telling me about getting new decals for their RVs (1995 fifth-wheel and 1992 motorhome). The old decals were faded and peeling, and while I don't remember the prices they told me, the decals from the manufacturer were very expensive and a local sign shop made beautiful ones for less than 25% of that cost.

 

[chim]

We have two sign shops nearby. My Brother-in-law has the best description of them - one is cheap and adequate, the other is more expensive but can give you exactly what you want. The latter is the one I picked (even though it was a simple job for them). They do all sorts of computer-generated signage on vehicles, from whole sides of tractor trailers and busses, to specialty front license plates..................chim