Re-build Spray Rig

[rvaitor]

I'm in the process of trying to re-rig up a spray rig from a variety of pieces.

First, I am trying to use old food service 55 gal barrels. The problem is tapping and putting an outlet in the bottom. Anyone have experience with this? A hole cutter will make a nice hole but the issue is how to get to the back/inside side to secure it.

Second issue is I have a boom and plan to re-use the Teejet nozzles. I plan to go with the 8003s. I have the ability to manually cut any of the three boom sections on and off. The plumbing of everything and what to use has me confused. I plan to buy a rotary pump, and a relief valve. Anything else? Do I need and system or main hose cutoff or do I just do that by starting the PTO? The nozzles shut off at 10PSI. I'm probably going to recirculate the fluid on the boom side back into the tank from the top side to agitate the mix.

Here are some pics. The system has wet booms and is 20' wide with 12 nozzles. I understand you can get pretty sophisticated with metering systems and GPS(I might go with just a simple GPS deal at some point but not now).

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

 

[wftree]

I would not cut into the bottom of the drums, I would use a dip tube from the top.

The pump should be plumbed with the relief valve returning the excess to the tanks. When the booms are shut off the pump will still pump and the fluid must go some place, if it can not get back to the tank it will blow out something.

try this site
sprayer plumbing Virginia Tech

 

[rvaitor]

I would not cut into the bottom of the drums, I would use a dip tube from the top.

The pump should be plumbed with the relief valve returning the excess to the tanks. When the booms are shut off the pump will still pump and the fluid must go some place, if it can not get back to the tank it will blow out something.

try this site
sprayer plumbing Virginia Tech

First thanks for the link. I was told the pump would have a hard time drawing fluid from the to and and to try and draw from the bottom. I guess it would self prime. Have you done this from the top only?

 

[kthompson]

I can not tell are the barrels metal or plastic? If metal can you not have a port brazed onto them? As to using a dip tube sure would be safe but can not remember seeing a sprayer that way. Would think issue is lift.

Teejet makes a control valve that sells from about mid $60's to probably about $80 depending on the model and where you buy. It is made for 3 section booms and allows all possible combos to be on and others off. You do keep the pump running to keep the chemicals mixed so there must be a relief valve with return to tank. It would seem if you will be using two tanks you may want the return in one tank and the pick up in the other to keep it mixing the best possible. But, have you priced a tank make for your frame? You probably are looking at about $100 to $120 with the ports already in it and make to handle the chemicals and large fill opening and maybe sloped to drain towards pump. One thing I don't like with your barrels is you can not tell how much you have left (my fiberglass tank same issue) so look at setting up a clear volume guage tubing also. Needs to be easy to see from tractor seat or less value.

 

[rvaitor]

I can not tell are the barrels metal or plastic? If metal can you not have a port brazed onto them? As to using a dip tube sure would be safe but can not remember seeing a sprayer that way. Would think issue is lift.

Teejet makes a control valve that sells from about mid $60's to probably about $80 depending on the model and where you buy. It is made for 3 section booms and allows all possible combos to be on and others off. You do keep the pump running to keep the chemicals mixed so there must be a relief valve with return to tank. It would seem if you will be using two tanks you may want the return in one tank and the pick up in the other to keep it mixing the best possible. But, have you priced a tank make for your frame? You probably are looking at about $100 to $120 with the ports already in it and make to handle the chemicals and large fill opening and maybe sloped to drain towards pump. One thing I don't like with your barrels is you can not tell how much you have left (my fiberglass tank same issue) so look at setting up a clear volume guage tubing also. Needs to be easy to see from tractor seat or less value.

I was told about the electric valves - about $100 a piece. The tanks are plastic and the frame was designed for 55Gal drums(the supports in the center between tanks would require a big change to retro). I'm still considering the made for tank option though. I was thinking to use the tanks for different products but could feed off one and return to the other but the spray guy said to either run it back into the tank or upstream from the pump(recirculating through the pump). If I can master putting outlets in the bottom of the drums I could put a sight gauge in that would be nice.

 

[rvaitor]

I can not tell are the barrels metal or plastic? If metal can you not have a port brazed onto them? As to using a dip tube sure would be safe but can not remember seeing a sprayer that way. Would think issue is lift.
.

Well I got a hold of a guy that makes rain barrel containers and he has these fittings that he uses a router to install. Basically these are spun into pre-cut holes and the spinning causes friction which melts and fuses the two pieces together - super slick and I think it will work perfectly for attaching my hoses.

I'll take some pictures and post tomorrow. BTW, I had 1.25" holes and fittings put in on the side bottom of the tank in hopes of protecting the hose attach pieces.

Also ordered all my hardware(pump, teejet nozzles, and relief valve). I'm still going to run it in a manual mode(no electronic valves) but at some point I may upgrade to GPS system with electronic controls - probably $2-3K.

 

[rvaitor]

Here are a couple of pics. The issue was in trying to put these outlets in with no large holes on the top side how do you secure it from the back with this it is basically welded in. Once I get everything working, I plan to paint frame and go to work. I am a little concerned about holding the tanks in place and right now plan to secure them with tie down straps.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Here are a couple of pics. The issue was in trying to put these outlets in with no large holes on the top side how do you secure it from the back with this it is basically welded in. Once I get everything working, I plan to paint frame and go to work. I am a little concerned about holding the tanks in place and right now plan to secure them with tie down straps.

Those are pretty cool little outlets you found for the bottom of those barrels. Do you have a brand name for them or a link?

 

[rvaitor]

Those are pretty cool little outlets you found for the bottom of those barrels. Do you have a brand name for them or a link?

This is the fellow that did them for me. Contact him and he may be able to put you in contact or tell you how to get the fittings. On mine he cut the holes first then spun the fittings in with a router - really slick.

PlugGREEN.com - The Online Resource for Green and Sustainable Businesses

 

[LBrown59]

I would not cut into the bottom of the drums,
*I would use a dip tube from the top.

How would you get the tube through the top of the tank?

 

[LBrown59]

First thanks for the link.

*I was told the pump would have a hard time drawing fluid from the to and and to try and draw from the bottom.


I guess it would self prime. Have you done this from the top only?

*Works fine for this fuel station.

 

[rvaitor]

How would you get the tube through the top of the tank?

I plan to use the 3/4" threaded piece in the fourth picture that is on the top of the barrel as a return line/port. There is a small hole there now which will be enlarged and a 3/4" fitting attached. I'll also fill it from the top from the other hole( there are two). My understanding is the pump would not be able to draw effectively from the top(siphoning) so that's why I wanted to put the fitting on the bottom. This will be my return/agitation line from the relief valve. An issue now is getting the 1.25" inch fitting in the bottom reduced to the proper hose size to feed the rotary pump.

 

[rvaitor]

*Works fine for this fuel station.

Yes, I looked at that set-up - it's nice. That thread didn't list the different pieces of equipment, but I'd be interested how you set that up and where you got the pieces.

 

[LBrown59]

Yes, I looked at that set-up - it's nice. That thread didn't list the different pieces of equipment, but I'd be interested how you set that up and where you got the pieces.

What partws do you mean ?

 

[rvaitor]

What partws do you mean ?

The pumps etc. Since I posted that I found a guy that can spin in threaded pieces wherever. which I wanted in the bottom of my barrels. I'm hoping to get my sprayer together this weekend and paint early next week.

I'll try and post some pics.

 

[rvaitor]

The pumps etc. Since I posted that I found a guy that can spin in threaded pieces wherever. which I wanted in the bottom of my barrels. I'm hoping to get my sprayer together this weekend and paint early next week.

I'll try and post some pics.

Okay, mostly assembled now with new paint, nozzles(teejet 8003s), 20' width, wet booms. will probably add some ports to the manifold system for a hand held gun and maybe a spray attachment to nuke over grown fence rows.

Here are some pics.

Still have some questions, should I connect both tanks simultaneously or put in an either/or valve? Also, I am thinking I should put an inline strainer in upstream from the pump to keep gunk from the tanks out of the system.

 

[kthompson]

Yes you need a strainer between the tanks and pump.

I may have mentioned it but I install quick disconnects on my pumps and my sprayer ends. This allows for switching any pump to any sprayer or one pump between more than one sprayer. It also allows for quick draining of a system or pump. It keeps them from sitting there holding water or spray mix to prevent rust and freeze damage. I also pull my pumps off and drop them into a 5 gallon bucket of old oil. Since doing that for about 2 or 3 seasons no more pump rebuilds.

 

[rvaitor]

Where do you get the quick disconnects? I've been looking at that. I still have the issue of one or both tanks.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I still have the issue of one or both tanks.

I'd valve both tanks into a "T" so you can pull from either or both. Are you going to have recirculation feed in to both to keep the chemical mixed?

 

[rvaitor]

I'd valve both tanks into a "T" so you can pull from either or both. Are you going to have recirculation feed in to both to keep the chemical mixed?

I guess I could on both counts - the feed into the pump and then out of the relief valve back into the tanks(not upstream on the in side of the pump). I've seen the three way valves that let you feed option 'A' or 'B' but not 'A' and 'B'.

While I'm thinking about it. I am having a hard time getting the hoses on the barbs what to folks use to make that a little easier?