Re-build trailer axles

[andyfletcher]

Frisk:

Glad someone as used auto spindles.

I'm building a double axle myself. Axles are 3/16 X 3in Box, frame 2 X 4 box. Spindles are from K car and are bolted to 3/8 thick plate.

What concerns me is they use 4 bolts for each spindle slightly less than 1/2in thick NF (prob 3/8). The heads are stamped M - 1000 so I figure they're rated to 1000 lbs each, I hope. Total load should withstand 4000 shock load (4 bolts) and 2000 running load per spindle I figure.

When I weld the plate to the axle and the bolts are already bolted to the plate, is there a possibility of losing the tensile strength from the bolts because of welding heat. ?

I could use ordinary temporary bolts during the welding process then remove them and re-install the 1000 originals but was concerned with accidentally welding close to the tap holes causing distortion and I would never be able to remove the temporary bolts.

Trailer load will never exceed 4400 lbs.

What do you think?

Thanks for the help.

 

[SPIKER]

Andy: trailers have been built using just about any redily available axels. lots of the small font wheel drive cars have straight axels in back, that can be unbolted and used for light duty trailers...

I would use the same bolts, and when the plates are all aligned and square and welded on I would then weld the axel plates to the spindle plates rather than just depending on the bolts. some small down hill welds you don't have to weld it 100% around...

just my 2 cents worth.

the bend in the center of the axels are for alognment (caster & camber) the axels are built in jigs straight, and the pads welded on, then they are bent XX amount to put in the caster & camber for proper wheel /tire wear under loads.

at least that is way I've seen them done. others when cutting & shorting the moblil home axels will cut out the bend, straight, then re-weld them right width appart with a small amount of gap in/under the bottom of the axel and flush at the top. this puts back some of the caster/camber, others simply cut each end and remove 2 sections and then install smaller ID pipe inside the larger trailer axels, then re-weld which is a better way in my oppinion... leave a gap so you weld the new inner pipe to both parts of the axels, all flush and nice, adds a bit of unsprung weight but not much.

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[andyfletcher]

Spiker.

Yeah, there's not much room for running a fillet weld around the spindle but it's a good idea anyway for the added security.

Another thing too about drop axles, I don't use them the way they are. If you use it that way bolting the leaf spring to the drop axle, and you hit a pot hole or anything, the frontal shock torques the axle/spring "U" bolts in a twisting action. The "K" axles are a composit of bent 1/8in stock bent over a solid 1.25in bar, not too good a foundation for a spring plate.

That's why you see the "K" axles are prevented from torquing by a support strut connected to the frame. Anyway, trailers built this way are a dead giveaway and DOT should pull them over or prevent plating.

I see a lot of "K" double axle trailers used as is in that fashion and it's just a matter of time before metal fatique snaps the "U" bolts or breaks a spring.

I don't use toe in on trailers. I figure with the low miles these things do it's not worth worrying about the tire life. Steering isn't a problem either of course.

I agree with wheel tilt, it's required to get the tire to run right on heavy load. I use 1/8 deflection in any wheel 14" to 16", and 1/16 for under 14.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[arkydog]

Corm- I just bought a 20 foot double axle trailer with a steel floor from an old boss of mine and he was a real animal ( some's good, more's better, and too much is just enough- type guy) and he loaded a Case 580 backhoe on it and bent both axles. I took an axle out one at a time and straightened them on the trailer with chains and wood blocks, and a 12 ton bottle jack . Took about 1 1/2 hrs each and both the toe and camber are just right. Straightened them by chaining both ends down and jacking up where bent.

arkydog

 

[Corm]

arkydog - I've been wondering if trying to straighten them would be worth the effort. Certainly wouldn't cost much to try... I just talked this over with a buddy of mine and he helped someone straighten out a slightly bent axle a few years ago. He volunteered to help me with mine. My rear axle is really bent, it has close to a two inch bow in the middle. That seems like a lot of bend to straighten out, but I guess I've got nothing to lose. Heck, I can't mess it up much worse that it already is! Thanks for sharing your experience with me.

Corm

 

[RonR]

That's what I was sitting back and wondering. If you could straighten it out, then weld some 1/2 x 4 or such strap on edge to strengthen it, wouldn't that work (at least for awhile)?

Ron