Re-Grading the Slope of Land for Drainage

[glennmac]

I could use some ideas as to how to use my tractor to re-grade the land abutting my creek to improve the drainage into the creek.

Right now, the land slopes down from the level of the creek banks on both sides before it slopes up again. Therefore there are swales, or large shallow bowl effects, for a few acres on each side of the creek. The water stands in these swales and doesnt drain well.

One of my ideas is to simply regrade the land contours somehow. Now, I cant bring in fill because there is no access for trucks. Nor could I afford it. So I would have to scrape dirt from higher places and move it into lower places, and maybe create channels. Also keep in mind that the soil in the lowest areas is moist to boggy except after a long dry spell. The soil in the higher areas is more normal.

We are talking about changing the grade of about a total of 3 acres. I realize that the right tool for the job is a bulldozer and excavating equipment.

However, if I did want to do it as a long-term tractor project, what would be the tractor implements that I would need and how would I use them to do the job?

 

[Knight9]

Well most folks who have a box scraper would probably say to use that....I don't have one....so let me tell you how I've done a similar thing with my implements. Where the soil is decent, I've used my rototiller to loosen the soil then used the FEL to move the loose soil to the low area. I've just kept doing that until things are a little smoother. Course....if I had the $$ I probably would have just bought a box scraper with scarifiers and done it the easy way! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Kevin

 

[cowboydoc]

Kevin's right. A boxscraper and front end loader and you should be able to do the job.

 

[john4nh]

If the ground is hard a disc will help break things up.

 

[RobS]

That is a lot of earth to move and a lot of ground to cover. I recently removed the topsoil from a previously wooded section of our lot in preparation for our driveway. I used the box scraper like a big earthmover would. I drove in circles (more or less), filling the box as I moved through the topsoil area, dragging the soil behind me, then emptying in my pile area. I created something of a berm in the pile area (a desired result anyway). I had to be careful to keep the growing berm wide and flat enough for safe operation, but it wasn't too hard to do. It went pretty quick as I was always moving and didn't have to change directions.

You could use a similar approach with some planning but your boggy soil may be a problem. You'd have to wait for one of your dry periods for it to work.

If I'd have done the same thing with my FEL I'd probably still be there. The cycle time through all the gyrations of forwards, backwards, raise, lower, dump etc. just takes too long.

Seems like someone (can't remember who) posted some pics of a pond he dug recently. It will be interesting to hear his techniques /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[radman]

For projects like yours, I use a small, 1yd soil mover. The digging component uses hydraulics and are pulled behind the tractor. They are similar to the big earth movers (scrapers) seen are large excavation and road projects, but are pulled by a tractor. They allow dirt to be picked up and moved. Next week I will use mine to level 600 yds of fill dirt being brought in for future pole barn. I will use my old allis chalmers D19 (72hp) instead of the kub 3710 just because of more muscle and weight. The 3710 could do the job but the D19 is faster. I will use the 3710 for final grading and to knock down the piles of dirt before using the soil mover. My soil mover is probably 30-40 years old. They still bring a good price at auctions. Saw one identical to mine at an auction 1 month ago bring $2500. You might be able to rent one. If the ground is hard, it is best to break up the soil with a disc, subsoiler, tiller etc. before trying to use the soil mover. They don't dig well in hard soil - to light in weight.

 

[glennmac]

Thanks for the ideas. I hadnt though of tilling. Maybe if I tilled it up I could pull the dirt with my backblade. How deep can a tiller go?

Radman, I've never heard of a soil mover (but of course all this dirt stuff is relatively new to me), and I am having a hard time picturing what is looks like and does. What creates the digging force? Do you then drag the soil as with a boxscraper? Sounds too expensive for me, in any event, even at the used prices. My tractor may be too small also.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I've never used one just seen them advertised but what about a 3ph "pond scoop"? Anyone had experience using one?

 

[Knight9]

Most tiller should go at least 6" deep depending on the soil. It may take several passes to get to the full depth.

A soil mover/pond scoop/dirt pan is basically a mini version of the big guys you see in the construction zone skimming off layers of dirt.

Kevin

 

[glennmac]

Kevin, these pictures sure are great. I'm still puzzling how it works. The pistons lower something that cuts and then lifts it up?