re-seeding information wanted

[nancyk]

I have 30+ acres of grass that has been used for pasture and hay. The past 10 years mostly mowed for hay, by a neighbor. It has been fertilized and limed but the amount of round baled hay gotten in is falling each year. Two years ago I hand-reseeded, then culti-packed, a few areas where some excavation work was done. I harrowed first. My hay man(who works full-time as an electrician) noticed the difference in the amount of grass that came up in the newly seeded areas, and was thinking of drilling some fescue last fall in the remaining acreage. He did not tho. I agreed to purchase the seed if he did the work. Any suggestions about this project? I just spoke w/the county agent, he said September may be the best time to plant but March could work if there was not a late freeze. I want to keep my hay man happy, as he not only mows the fields but a few hard-to-get places that would be time-consuming for me to mow by hand. All input is appreciated.

 

[Hay Dude]

County agent is right. Seeding in spring may work ok, but late summer is better. New seedlings planted in spring will get a lot of abuse from farm tractors, rakes, tedders, balers, etc. in first cutting.

 

[nancyk]

"get a lot of abuse from farm tractors" so maybe after the second cutting of hay, early September, would be best. Planted a bit on cleared areas last late October, it came up well, then was hit by two freezes. So I will be doing those areas again in a few months.

 

[Hay Dude]

"get a lot of abuse from farm tractors" so maybe after the second cutting of hay, early September, would be best. Planted a bit on cleared areas last late October, it came up well, then was hit by two freezes. So I will be doing those areas again in a few months.

10-4
The fall, late fall, winter and early spring give the seedlings a chance to establish root systems.
I just seeded 41 acres in mig August here, but I‘m colder and farther up north that you.
Even if you seed late summer, you wont really see vigorous growth until the following summer. It also depends on the seed chosen. Fescue wont really have a heavy growth the following spring, but after first cut, it’ll come up real strong.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

Hope you had soil tested before adding fertilizer and lime - otherwise would not have known what to add. As was explained to me, add the lime first to adjust Ph. With right Ph, that adjusts soil to be able to accept and use, the other prescribed nutrients. I was told to wait 7 months from lime to fertilizer for that amendment to take place.
Suggest not to use Kentucky 31 fescue. Makes pregnant horses abort. That will limit your demand and limited demand drives down prices - not keeping hay man happy.
Agree with all others about timing of seeding, adding in to seed when the soil is properly amended.
Seed drilling is good - highly productive

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Have you thought about running an aereator over the field or possibly burning it off prior to spring growth.

 

[Hay Dude]

You can usually rent an aerator
They are helpful on compacted soI’ll and help cut older root-bound clump grasses.

 

[nancyk]

An aerator. Interesting. I have spoken w/our county agent, he never suggested that. I have a call in to the local U.S. D. A., even stopped by. They are not returning calls as they are so busy, a woman I briefly spoke w/at the office said they are at least a year behind doing farm visits. All I am looking for is options. Attended a seminar about growing hemp(ruled that out), the county agent suggested raising cattle(my horse vet just shook his head NO when I told him that), so for now re-energizing the existing pastures/hayfields is on my plate. The people on this site are always helpful and informative.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

An aerator. Interesting.

Nancy, I quote the below from Google search, and add comments below
"After a summer that yielded little hay and pasture forage due to the drought, many hay producers are asking if aeration would be helpful. ... In fact, aeration is unlikely to be of economic benefit in the vast majority of cases."
In a lawn environment, with lots of foot traffic or cars driving on the lawn, aeration is likely to help the lawn by penetrating the compacted earth. In a pasture, aeration will help cow trails, around feeding and watering areas, but is not likely to help the pasture enough to justify the time spent to do the whole thing. Several years ago, I spent 4 days aerating, and could not detect any difference in the pasture thereafter.
If you do aerate, you want a core, or plug aerator. You want a very heavy and strong unit, able to strongly hold all the concrete blocks that it is designed to hold. Aerate the 2nd day after a good rain. You want the soil moist and soft, not wet and muddy.

 

[nancyk]

"In fact, aeration is unlikely to be of economic benefit in the vast majority of cases." "I spent 4 days aerating, and could not detect any difference in the pasture thereafter" Thanks for your experience. Hard to know what will or will not be productive. Sounded good.