Re-setting Electric Pole & Panel Pictures

[Obed]

After using all the Quikcrete, I tamped dirt into the top half of the hole. Here's the bar pole standing. I was very satisfied in knowing that this pole was set correctly and should last a good long while.

In the background you can see our fire burning. We are constantly burning on the weekends. We have a lot of tree debris that was left on the property before we bought it by some nice folks who ran a tree cutting service without the permission of the owner.

 

[Obed]

I've got to run for now. I have pictures of re-assembling the electrical panels and will post them soon.

 

[Ford960]

Obed,
I think that I'd be looking to get some of your money back from that electrician.

A couple of months ago I replaced my RV pole to upgrade to 200 Amp. Where we live you get a permit from the county for $55 and do the work yourself. When finished you call for an inspection and when thats done the next day he faxes the info to the power company and the truck shows up and connects.
The power company requires that the poles be at least four feet in the ground and not loose. We are getting set up to set about 40 RV poles here in NC for a developer. They will be done 5 at a time and I've ordered 5-50/30/20 Amp metered boxes at $641 from:

Jamestown Advanced Products

This comes out to $128/box but it is going to be 2 weeks for delivery.

However, I needed a couple of boxes early and ordered them from USG

USG

The MH75SM-3 metered box is $139+$15 shipping to my place and they arrived in 3 days.

We can set 6"x6"x16' square poles or 6"x20' round poles. The square poles are $32.05 each or $54.95 for a round. Also in most cases we don't need to set in concrete.

We also trench the water line from the meter to the hydrant, most times 50' to 75'.

My cost for materials is $250 and we net $550/lot.

 

[Bird]

I'm sure there are different regulations and requirements in different places. I set a new pole and service for my parents' mobile home and separate service for my shop building on one pole, I helped my brother set the pole for his new service, and I helped his next door neighbor set his. Then I replaced an old rotten pole and master breaker panel for my own home. Our electric co-op would definitely not permit that 6 x 6. We were required to use a round treated pole, minimum diameter of 6", 16' long, 4' in the ground, an 8' copper ground rod in the ground beside the pole, galvanized metal conduit (no plastic or PVC allowed), and metal weather head. The electric company provided the meter base and one page of instructions. Incidentally, I bought two of the poles from McCoys that Eddie mentioned, but our McCoys did not have the complete assembly at that time. I don't know whether they have them now or not.

 

[tallyho8]

Our electric co-op would definitely not permit that 6 x 6. We were required to use a round treated pole, minimum diameter of 6"

Bird, I wonder why this rule exists. I was told, perhaps wrongly, that a 6 x 6 was stronger than a 6" pole. I wonder where I could find statistics that tell which pole is the stronger

 

[Bird]

Bird, I wonder why this rule exists. I was told, perhaps wrongly, that a 6 x 6 was stronger than a 6" pole. I wonder where I could find statistics that tell which pole is the stronger

When a round pole is 6" minimum diameter at the small end, it's a bit larger at the other end. Both the round poles and the 6 x 6 are treated wood, of course, and I think there's a difference in the treatment, but don't really know exactly what it is. At any rate, you will certainly have more wood in the round pole and I think the round pole will last longer. However, just as with the utility company's taller, regular poles, I don't know of anyone who set those round poles in concrete.

 

[Ford960]

Bird,
Our round poles are 6" at the large end and there's more wood in a square pole than round. We can't get a square 20' pole so when we need the extra 4' height we have to use the rounds.
I prefer the squares because they are easier to mount boxes on. Also the meter can is supplied by the owner and can be either ring or ringless. They don't like to see old boxes being reused either. We can use PVC conduit and weatherheads. The pole has to be within 100' of a feeder pole or one would have to be set by the power company and that could take two weeks to a month.
My buddy's pole ended up being set by someone else and was 130 to the nearest feeder pole and he was going to have to wait for power. We moved it over 60' and the power company connected to it the next day. We have the same lineman in this area on a daily basis and he is the nicest person to work with and will bend over backward to get the power connected. BUT, don't make him mad or he can be a real pain.
On my lot I completely changed my outlets after the inspector left and trenched in wire for 100 Amp service 80' back in my lot to a subpanel and a 50 Amp RV outlet and the another 43' across to another 50 Amp outlet for my shop trailer. I also ran water and sewer in the same trench at 24" deep.

 

[toolaholic]

I'm a gen. cont. That's a typical install for a TEMP.SERVICE. they are never set in concrete,hence temp. service. He did a neat job. The price is fair.

He knew what He was doing. You and your wife didn'T

 

[BTDT]

We hired an electrician to put up a 16 ft electric pole to provide power for a camper.

When you hired him, did you specify that you wanted this pole set in concrete, or did you just "assume" that he would do it that way? If you told him, and he didn't, then you might have a complaint.

 

[Bird]

I completely changed my outlets after the inspector left and

In our county, the only "inspection" was by the electric company and the only thing they inspected was the before mentioned items. You had to have that master breaker panel right below the meter, with the meter approximately 6' off the ground, and they didn't care what you did from there on.