I'm considering a light/medium manually adjustable rear blade and I'd like input on offset adjustments. Land Pride and Woods have variations of slotted bolt adjustments on the moldboard for offset and tilt. I'm concerned about needing a wrench every time I want to make an adjustment and the possibility of the bolts sliding in the slots as I work, but the slots would allow infinite adjustability. Dirt Dog/Rhino has a pin on the 3 point hitch that allows the entire arm to swing. To me this seems preferable because the pin won't work loose like a bolt can. However, these brands are harder to find near me. Should I try to find one with a pin or is the Woods design fine if I don't want to change the offset frequently? I'd also like the option of skids and end plates so that's why I'm looking at certain brands.
Rear Blade Adjustment Preferences
- Thread starter AaronD81
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Personally I would stay away from a blade that requires bolts to change settings. You may think it is not a big deal but when I use a blade I am constantly changing settings as I go. When you are done with a certain part of the smoothing process you will need to readjust for the next process and then possibly back again. Especially if you are not familiar with using a blade this will likely happen more times than you want. I would not want to be fiddling with bolts and nuts. Way too time consuming!!
Just my 2 cents..
rScotty
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I like the pins on my blade. You will probably find that it handy to have angle front, back, tilt, and maybe offset.....but they don't really need to be adjustable for small increments. What they DO need is to be is very, very strong, secure, fast to change, and resistant to moving. The forces are huge. Pins are all those things and much stronger than a bolted connection.
So I would say it is worth it to get pins for the angle at the front, the angle at the back, and the tilt. You make those three adjustments all the time.
You will see that even some big commercial will have a long bolted slot on the back of the blade itself for offsetting the blade - but that works because those forces are low and you hardly ever make that adjustment anyway.
If you order a blade, consider getting end caps. End caps are real handy - except that they are almost always bolted on (ugh) but they do make a back blade able to move dirt more like a box blade. Most of the time I use one end cap and leave the other end open.
rScotty
So I would say it is worth it to get pins for the angle at the front, the angle at the back, and the tilt. You make those three adjustments all the time.
You will see that even some big commercial will have a long bolted slot on the back of the blade itself for offsetting the blade - but that works because those forces are low and you hardly ever make that adjustment anyway.
If you order a blade, consider getting end caps. End caps are real handy - except that they are almost always bolted on (ugh) but they do make a back blade able to move dirt more like a box blade. Most of the time I use one end cap and leave the other end open.
rScotty
Thanks, that's the kind of insight I'm looking for. After a little more research, it looks like the Dirt Dog/Rhino doesn't have end plates or skid shoes as options on the 50 series, does anyone know of a brand where I can get pin adjustments for everything and at least end plates? I guess I could modify end plates but would prefer not to if I'm buying new anyway.
jyoutz
Super Member
I used to have a blade that required removing bolts to offset. I found that to be too much trouble and seldom used that function. I now have a blade with pin offset and use that function all the time now and it shows on the nice roads that I have now. Offset is an essential function if you are regularly doing road maintenance or constructing/maintaining ditches.
Shaneard
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Search the local classifieds and local dealers for an older one. I found this Ford 785A at a local used dealer. They are a lot heavier than new ones these days. This one offsets either way, tilts, angles, etc. all with pins.
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Gordon Gould
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This is just my opinion and you should realize that I know nothing about your planned usage or situation so my opinion may be worthless.
Being able to offset the blade can be a very handy feature but if you will need to switch from offset to balanced often then I think you should strongly consider a wider blade. That said I have two offsetable blades. I only use the offset in special situations like during mud season and I don't want to break down the edge of the road but I want to clean up the edge so water will run off.
That's a LandPride where you unbolt the mold board and slide it over. I'm running it backward on the soft road. It is a little cumbersome to set up but OK because I keep it offset for the entire job.
The other is a TufLine blade which swings for the offset. It is much easier to set up with the ratchet screw. I offset it in the winter pushing snowbanks back or ditches with my bigger tractor. You lose some adjustability with the angle adjustment because when you offset you are already at 45*. To get the blade straight you go to the 45* hole then if you want to further on the angle there is no hole. If you can picture what I am saying. That's not usually a problem crowning a road because you are moving the dirt to the center. But for snow you want to move it to the edge.
I can't believe the Woods slotted hole would be a problem. They are know to be a pretty good blade manufacturer.
gg
Being able to offset the blade can be a very handy feature but if you will need to switch from offset to balanced often then I think you should strongly consider a wider blade. That said I have two offsetable blades. I only use the offset in special situations like during mud season and I don't want to break down the edge of the road but I want to clean up the edge so water will run off.
That's a LandPride where you unbolt the mold board and slide it over. I'm running it backward on the soft road. It is a little cumbersome to set up but OK because I keep it offset for the entire job.
The other is a TufLine blade which swings for the offset. It is much easier to set up with the ratchet screw. I offset it in the winter pushing snowbanks back or ditches with my bigger tractor. You lose some adjustability with the angle adjustment because when you offset you are already at 45*. To get the blade straight you go to the 45* hole then if you want to further on the angle there is no hole. If you can picture what I am saying. That's not usually a problem crowning a road because you are moving the dirt to the center. But for snow you want to move it to the edge.
I can't believe the Woods slotted hole would be a problem. They are know to be a pretty good blade manufacturer.
gg
jyoutz
Super Member
I use the offset blade all the time to pull road gravel from the ditch back to the road. Also to plow the snow from the road into the ditch. Those things are impossible to do without an offset blade unless your ditches are shallow enough to drive over.
Gordon, thanks appreciate the comparison. I think Woods is a little easier than Land Pride because you don't completely remove any bolts, you loosen two bolts and it slides on a track. More cumbersome than a pin, but I can probably live with it since it comes with the other options of skid shoes and end plates. So far haven't found a manufacturer than has it all on a medium weight blade that doesn't involved hydraulics.
Buggs67
Veteran Member
FWTW I have the medium duty Paladin made by Kodiak and it's similar to the Woods model you show. It is an effort to offset it but I don't do that much and only takes a couple minutes and my shop is never more than 1/3 mile away. I found that the tilt feature was more important to me and so I replaced my right lift arm with a cylinder so I can adjust tilt on the fly.
One that offsets and tilts and angles with pins would be real nice but $$$$.
I rigged up my own skids just fs I wouldn't dig up all the gravel when snow plowing. I can post pics if you need. Mine is 6' which is enough for my small tractor.
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One that offsets and tilts and angles with pins would be real nice but $$$$.
I rigged up my own skids just fs I wouldn't dig up all the gravel when snow plowing. I can post pics if you need. Mine is 6' which is enough for my small tractor.
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