Rear blade decision

[dnw64]

Following along here and learning. I have a rear blade that isn't doing enough for me and my trail making/grading. Just bought a used box blade and decided to invest in a top and tilt system from Fitrite Hydraulics (a member on TBN). Waiting for its arrival. Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

My problem is I am cutting trails into a side slope an cannot change the slope relative to my wheels. Hoping the tilt will be the holy grail.

I would love (or, maybe not!) to have a 23 week lead time!!!

 

[3Ts]

I actually looked at their DB-6 pan, but decided a blade would be more useful. Timing worked out so that the local blade was more practical than Hoelscher's equipment.

 

[grauch]

Looking for some ideas on a rear blade. I have a few miles of trails that I need to maintain, the box blade does a great job for the most part, but it leaves the trails dead level side to side which makes rainwater pool and cut channels. So I need some way to crown the trails and I was thinking a rear blade would work, set it at an angle, let it dig with a corner and throw the scarf up onto the trail. Then use the BB to smooth everything out leaving a ditch on both sides. First question, is a rear blade a good/right tool for this? Seems like it should work, but my soil is heavy clay, so.. Next question; how much to spend on this thing? Seems like this is going to be a tough life for a blade (moving virgin soil around), so I was thinking going heavy duty, but, if this is child's play, tell me, and save me some money!

Finally, specific brand recommendations/features? I've got rear remotes, so was interested in getting hydro tilt/angle/offset.. But do I really need all 3?? I'm not sure I need any of them if I'm just cutting a ditch always on the right hand side of the tractor? But I love hydro adjust, so.. Might be worth it.. Adding hydro adjust to my BB (via a top link from Fitrite) has greatly increased it's utility and ease of use, so I don't want to cheap out on the blade just to find that I really should have gotten hydro because I wind up adjusting it all the time.

I've been looking at the EA models, they have 2 that interest me, the extreme duty and the Landshark models. The ED model doesn't have hydro options, is lighter, and quite a bit cheaper. Anyone have that and happy/not happy with it? Bonus if you're trying to move GA clay around with it!

Stay away from the Woods rear blades. I purchased an RB96.50 for use on a yanmar 424 for clearing snow 3 years ago. The plate that holds the blade completely fractured. I am out $400 buying a replacement part.

 

[jyoutz]

Stay away from the Woods rear blades. I purchased an RB96.50 for use on a yanmar 424 for clearing snow 3 years ago. The plate that holds the blade completely fractured. I am out $400 buying a replacement part.

Woods generally makes good implements. That appears to be their light duty model.

 

[jyoutz]

Question for those with grader blade hydraulics: What size cylinder do you have or should you use for the angle function? I have the EA ED 8' grader blade and that's the function I would like to change "on the move".

Thanks,

I have an 8’ Bison blade with a 3”x12” hydraulic cylinder for the angle function. But the length is dependent on how your blade is designed.

 

[grauch]

Woods generally makes good implements. That appears to be their light duty model.

No ! It is their heavy duty model as stated on the web page. A 24 HP tractor plowing snow fractured it. It was designed and made poorly. - RB96.50 Rear Blade, 95-inch working width - Woods Equipment

 

[ArlyA]

I used a landpride, model unknown and sure liked it. No hydraulic tilt, but did have blade sweep angle.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I used a landpride, model unknown and sure liked it. No hydraulic tilt, but did have blade sweep angle.
View attachment 1867808View attachment 1867810View attachment 1867811

The RB3784 is a nice blade for 50hp and under tractors IMO. It is only available with a hydraulic cylinder for the blade angle. Blade tilt and offset are only available with manual adjustments from the factory.

 

[oosik]

I had a 450 pound Land Pride rear blade to go with my Ford 1700 4WD. Did great clearing snow on my mile long gravel driveway. Summer use of this blade - a NO GO. My driveway turns to a mile of concrete in the summer. The LP blade was just too light.

So in 2009 I traded the Ford in for a brand new 2009 Kubota M6040. I upgraded to a Rhino 950 rear blade. An eight foot blade that weighs 1050 pounds. I have top link hydraulics. I did not opt for angle, tilt or offset hydraulics.

This Rhino rear blade will DEFINITELY cut my driveway in the summer. And - yes - it was expensive. $3750. If you have a driveway - such as I do - you can purchase a lighter blade and play games OR get a HD blade and get the job done.

If you have a loose gravel driveway - you can get the job done with a lighter blade. The top layer on my driveway is a combination of - gravel, sand, silt & volcanic ash. 1980 - Mt St Helens still shows it's ugly face here on my property. Silt and volcanic ash get renewed each time the wind blows over 10 mph.

Anyhow - almost every year I'm using the rear blade to restructure and crown a select portion of my driveway. When all the basic driveway activities are completed - I use my land plane grading scraper to make it smooth as a pool table.

The driveway was constructed in 1982. It has never had added gravel. Just pull what is needed up out of the ditches and spread across the surface. This is what a heavy duty rear blade can do for you.

 

[scootr]

I had a 450 pound Land Pride rear blade to go with my Ford 1700 4WD. Did great clearing snow on my mile long gravel driveway. Summer use of this blade - a NO GO. My driveway turns to a mile of concrete in the summer. The LP blade was just too light.

So in 2009 I traded the Ford in for a brand new 2009 Kubota M6040. I upgraded to a Rhino 950 rear blade. An eight foot blade that weighs 1050 pounds. I have top link hydraulics. I did not opt for angle, tilt or offset hydraulics.

This Rhino rear blade will DEFINITELY cut my driveway in the summer. And - yes - it was expensive. $3750. If you have a driveway - such as I do - you can purchase a lighter blade and play games OR get a HD blade and get the job done.

If you have a loose gravel driveway - you can get the job done with a lighter blade. The top layer on my driveway is a combination of - gravel, sand, silt & volcanic ash. 1980 - Mt St Helens still shows it's ugly face here on my property. Silt and volcanic ash get renewed each time the wind blows over 10 mph.

Anyhow - almost every year I'm using the rear blade to restructure and crown a select portion of my driveway. When all the basic driveway activities are completed - I use my land plane grading scraper to make it smooth as a pool table.

The driveway was constructed in 1982. It has never had added gravel. Just pull what is needed up out of the ditches and spread across the surface. This is what a heavy duty rear blade can do for you.

You mention the road is hard to cut when it is dry. Have you tried grading it when it has moisture in it? Dry material will not cut or compact well. Of course too wet is not good either, there is a sweet spot where the material will cut easily and recompact well.