Rear Blade for a John Deere 5075E

[boggen]

some things to think about....

FEL (front end loader) with heavy duty bucket. would most likely be advisable. as bare min.

ya going to need counter weight in the rear end. either tires filled with a liquid, to a 3pt hitch implement that is heavy. to counter balance weight of FEL, and be able to really put the FEL to use in heavy conditions

TNT (Top N tilt) = 1 or 2 cylinders to adjust angle, and then another hyd cylinder for top link for 3pt hitch. you can get manufactured to 3rd party kits. to replace the old turn buckles / hand adjustment linkages on 3pt hitch.

TNT will either take 2 to 3 rear remotes, double check on what type of "valves" you want for these rear remotes.

on top of that you most likely want 2 more rear remotes for anything else that may come along that has another hyd cylinder or like on it.

with above 3 or 4 rear remotes should cover pretty much everything out there, exception the rare few 3pt hitch implements that require 5 rear remotes.
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rear blade, box blade, or land plane (grader blade), or *duh* forget name york rake? looks like a old metal garden rake but 3pt hitch version. out of the 4, you most likely would want a min of any 2 of them.

box blades, normally have scraficer teeth on them. and normally have area on top, were you can place extra weight. to allow you to drop them teeth into the ground. to really rip up the ground. and then it makes everything else easier for rear blades, box blade leveling, land plane, etc...

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4 in 1 bucket
heavy duty bucket with a tooth bar for it,
heavy duty bucket with grapple.

the 4 in 1 bucket, can turn into a dozer blade to some extent. it will be no were as maneuverable as a dozer blade but...

heavy duty bucket with tooth bar. if ya needing to do some digging with the FEL. the tooth bar helps cutting into dirt easier. though tooth bar can be a 3rd party add on.

grapple. if ya needing to remove brush and stack it in some central place to burn.

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i might suggest a backhoe. if you are going to be one left to removing tree stumps. that or when ya need use of a backhoe, goto local machine rental place, and rent a mini excavator or excavator. and just go at it non stop for a couple days to do what ever projects you have saved up.

if you do go with backhoe 3pt hitch backhoe with sub frame, and will have a good amount of use, suggest getting a tractor created for a backhoe, were you turn seat 180 degrees and backhoe controls are there. vs getting off of tractor, and walk around to backhoe seat. (ya walk a couple miles)

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if you have not already spend some time over at EverythingAttachments.com and watch videos of pretty much every implement listed on there website. in how to use them and set implements up.

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what ya wanting, and what ya needing, is going to be a pretty high dollar. i hate to say it.

if you get the "high dollar ticket items", tractor itself, FEL, and what ever will fit into your budget for highest price implement you can afford. and then wait and save for the less expensive items. thought is pay big now and all at once and more likely get a larger discount. and then the cheaper implements. you might come across something used, or perhaps some sort of "sale" later on down the road. if you are patient enough for a given implement.

 

[coosa]

Boggen - Lots of good info in your post, and thanks for taking the time to write it for me. I'm not gonna be able to afford most of what you were talking about, but I'm still hopeful that I can "get by" with just the 553 FEL and that heavy rear blade. That blade is gonna weigh over 1100 lbs, and I think that will be plenty of ballast for running the FEL. I may indeed someday regret not getting more rear SCVs, but nothing I own now would require more than 2, and I believe the RB will do what I need with just 2, and that will save $1500 or so.

When my dad was alive, we kept this place up with an old International H with all drag-type equipment. I grew to hate that tractor; we never used it without at least one break-down, and it had almost nothing in the way of brakes and was all kind of dangerous. I watched him lay it over on its side once, but he was able to jump off. I was glad to see it leave the place when I sold it. At my home, I have been keeping up over 1/2 mile of gravel driveway with a Super C and a scrape blade that I made for it. I welded a couple of old grader blades to 2 plow shanks and made it to fit in the cultivator and it actually works pretty good. Let me tell you, after the junk equipment that I've used most of my life, having a brand new JD 75 hp with a FEL and a really heavy hyd rear blade sounds like a dream from heaven.

And seeing this dozer leave the place is another thing I'm ready to see happen. Good news is that the dealer just called and we are very close to working out a deal. I am just hoping it will work out. Thanks to all who have convinced me to get the heavy RB. I probably would have gotten the cheap one if it hadn't been for you guys. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

 

[coosa]

Oh, and tires will definitely be filled with water; I've never run a tractor that didn't have water in the tires. And if it gets cold enough and you decide to run the tractor, you can ruin one. We found that out the hard way when an uncle borrowed the old H to go get a deer in 10 degree weather.

I have looked at the TNT videos, but just can't see why I would need it if the rear blade has the hyd cylinders. I'm sure I could think of some use for it. I'll get things like teeth for the FEL bucket after-market and in the next tax year. Gotta have a grapple of some kind, but can wait on that. I think I can get by without a land plane or a back hoe. I just wouldn't use things like that enough to justify keeping them on the place.

 

[boggen]

what i am saying is get the TNT, and then if you want the angle adjustment for blade itself then go for it.

that way if you do get another 3pt hitch implement, the TNT is already there for that other implement.

if you get a rear blade with all the hyd cylinders on it. then you remove rear blade. there goes your hyd cylinders that you could use for another implement.

rear blades, come in all configurations. with and without hyd cylinders. and at different "grades" or "duties" or min / max HP requirement type of specs.

perhaps i am "confusing the issue" and the TNT is part of the rear blade deal. though i have seen some rear blades skip the TNT and place all the hyd cylinders on the rear blade / implement itself. though most of these that i have seen are modified "snow blades" for front of a tractor or front of a truck and not a 3pt hitch implement.

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multi various liquids that folks have placed in there tires. some RV antifreeze, some windshield washer fluid, some foam, some beet juice, and some others a few different chemicals out there marketed for filling rear tires.

 

[vtsnowedin]

This is a very interesting read. I'll be very interested in how Coosa finds the abilities of his new 5075E with the 553 loader compares to the bulldozer he is trading. Each has advantages and dis-advantages. The dozer can put all of its horse power onto the blade without breaking anything and it can tilt the blade both up and down and side to side but can't pick up a blade full and carry it anywhere without dribbling.
The 5075E can't tilt it's bucket side to side or left to right but can scoop up a bucket full and carry it any distance needed without dribbling and can raise it up and load it into a truck or other conveyance.
You can get the tractor to dig you a sloped grade by working sideways until you can get the tractor on the desired plane but you will never get a dozer to load a truck for you. What you choose depends on the work you have in front of you.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Here would be a forward looking option, get the 3 OEM rear remotes, be sure that at least one, if not two of them have the float function. Get the 1100lb heavy duty rear blade with the hydraulic angle function only. Use that set up for awhile. If you find that you need to tilt the blade side to side, then get a tilt cylinder for the 3pt hitch. Like boggen said, then you have tilt for all of your implements. You really want to get the OEM remotes with the tractor purchase IMO.

 

[coosa]

Here would be a forward looking option, get the 3 OEM rear remotes, be sure that at least one, if not two of them have the float function. Get the 1100lb heavy duty rear blade with the hydraulic angle function only. Use that set up for awhile. If you find that you need to tilt the blade side to side, then get a tilt cylinder for the 3pt hitch. Like boggen said, then you have tilt for all of your implements. You really want to get the OEM remotes with the tractor purchase IMO.

Thanks for all the additional replies; ya'll are really confusing me.

Well, there is no doubt that the rear blade has to tilt in order to do what I want. I've saved about 1/2 mile of road that needs to be worked, so if the trade goes thru that is the first thing I'll try with it. Considering how I've kept up my home driveway with the blade on the Super C, I just believe I'm gonna be able to do a super job (by my standards) on the farm roads. 1100 lbs is a lot of blade, and I'll be able to look backward and be able to tell what it is doing. If you've never graded a road with a dozer, let me tell you, it ain't all that easy. You can't tell how much dirt you are pushing and have to develop a feel for it. I really believe the tractor with this blade will be better for grading the roads than the dozer is, at least, better than the dozer with me operating it. Anybody can learn to push down trees, but it takes an Operator to grade dirt with a dozer and leave it smooth.

I appreciate all the encouragement to get the extra rear remotes,but consider this - the 5210 has 2 rear remotes and they have never been used once in the 12 years that I have owned the tractor. I just can't imagine what piece of equipment I would need that's gonna require more than 2. And I don't understand why I need TNT. All that I own in addition to what I'm getting new is a bush hog, disc harrow, discplow, bottom plow, 2 row planter (junk), a light rear blade that will be traded, and a cultivator. The only other piece of equipment I really want is a cultipacker. So why do I need TNT for any of that? And is TNT even an option from the factory? As you can see, my understanding of TNT is kinda fuzzy; I don't understand why I'd ever want to tilt a bush hog or a disc harrow. Are you thinking I might later need it for a box blade or something? Unless I do move there, its very unlikely I'd ever buy another piece of road-grading equipment. I just feel sure I can "get by" with the blade. I used a manual blade years ago with the 5210 that was only half the weight of this new one, and I thought it did a fine job on my dad's home driveway.

The hyd cylinders for the rear blade would indeed be located on it and be useless for any other piece of equipment. I just can't think of anything else I own that I would ever want to tilt. I'm sure I don't understand fully what ya'll are encouraging me to get. I will say that my budget has a drop-dead price that it can't exceed, and the deal right now is $400 over it. I'm not gonna be able to get anything extra for sure, and it may not work out as it is. So all I could possibly do is swap the tilt cylinder on the rear blade for the TNT function, and I'm pretty sure the TNT function is much more.

Many thanks again for all the suggestions, but I'm afraid I'm too poor to take advantage of them. If I had gone with the light blade, I'd be under budget and able to consider something extra, but the heavy rear blade really wrecked the budget.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Sounds like it is going to work out best for you with the 2 hydraulics on the rear blade. You WILL NOT be sorry that you are getting the 1100lb rear blade. :thumbsup: Sorry for any suggestions that may have ended up confusing you. :sorry: We are just trying to cover all the bases. All of this other stuff can always be added if you find that you are in need of it or something else for that matter.

Good luck

 

[boggen]

there has been times with a bush hog. down in the pasture (hilly) with a creak, and then the 2 lakes, and then the various washouts / ravines. and then dealing with multi flower rose bushes. that it would have been awesome to have a "top link" for a TNT. just to lift the bush hog rear tail wheels up higher. or perhaps lower rear end of bush hog down some. to get a better cut on a steep edge.

*grumbles* running over a stinking stump, and getting bush hog deck hung up on the stump. and ya already in soft wet ground. and deck will not raise high enough to get over it. it only happen once, but would of loved a TOP link hyd cylinder.

there has been a couple times, using the disc, to more or less "level" things out around some sheds and a couple other areas. that were very bumpy, mowing the grass. and it would have been nice to just reach over. and "tilt" the disc higher up on one side. so the disc would not try and drag down hill were the ground was fine.

been times it would have been nice to just TNT (top and tilt) for rear blade, to deal with ditches, and bring dirt or gravel back on to the drive. and having an angle adjustment on rear blade, to deal with both snow. but also dealing with that little bit of dirt or gravel in front of the blade that ya really can not spread out very well up in a tight corner. or perhaps blade is not digging in as good as you want so ya use TOP link to adjust how the cutting of the rear blade goes.

for myself, on the 80 acres here. and i want to say 1 mile length of driveway and dirt roads. i get traffic from family and friends with cars setting extremely low to the ground. so any low hole is just asking for problems. a box blade with sacrificer teeth/shanks would really speed things up and smooth things out quicker. than what i could do with a FEL and rear blade. more so when dealing with ruts.

with out TNT, and just a FEL. a good amount of work can be done. it just takes longer and gets a tad more frustrating, and the end result, does not always come out all that great. rear blade helps. make things easier and quicker. but there is still some limitations.

if the cultivator is heavy duty enough. use it like a box blade sacrificer teeth / shanks. to rip up ground, before using rear blade to smooth things out.

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ya TNT does not really make sense in how ya stated it. but there been times, it would have been nice to have with other 3pt hitch implements. i am sure ya been there a few times.

if you think ya can pull one of hyd cylinders off of the heavier rear blade and use as a TOP link or side link for 3pt hitch. go for it.

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regardless of anything, you know your land, and your skills, and what is acceptable to you. for me, it is long patient game of saving and waiting for a good deals to come up. and at moment the farm is pretty torn up.

 

[coosa]

Let me admit one thing and everyone will better understand my thinking here- I had never heard of TNT until I started doing research for this tractor a few weeks ago. I don't know anyone around here that has it on their tractor and I have never actually seen one in use. So I guess my lack of experience with the feature is part of my difficulty to understand why I need it.

On the other hand, I've had a lot of experience with various kinds of blades and have a good idea of what can be done with one. I've often said that if I ever got rich, I would buy a motor grader to keep up our road. My wife said we would pave the road if that happened, but I told her I would miss out on all the fun of grading the road the way it ought to be done.

But I suspect keeping up a motor grader would be just as hard as keeping up a dozer, so a rear blade that with hyd angle and tilt will likely be as close as I ever get to a motor grader. If I had been watching my friends use TNT, I might have a greater desire for the feature. Probably best for my family if I can avoid that.

Thanks again for all the ideas and help.