Grading rear blade mods for bx24

[harleyguy302]

I have been reading posts on here since feb of this year and have learned alot. It prompted me to go out and buy a BX24 in May. This has been one of the best purchases I have ever made!! This thing is a work horse!! Anyway I have finally joined and have my first question since I haven't been able to find anything posted. I broke down a couple of weeks ago and bought a rear blade that I plan on using for snow removal on my BX24. I bought the King Kutter XB. Now I am kind of wishing I'd bought the standard King Kutter instead. When I got it home I started to think about all the ditches that I could grade to a nice angle and ground I could level with the blade. Anyway what I have discovered is that this XB is to light to do any of this effectively. So what I am wondering is has anyone modified their rear blade to hold additional weight on it like cinder blocks? I don't have a welder and was thinking about bolting a plateform together out of angle iron the using u-bolts to attach to top blade tubing coming from the 3 pt to the blade. Has anyone done something like this or am I way off base? My ground is pretty soft right now and will scrape easily with enough weight on the blade. Thanks for any input you may have in advance.

 

[4Kings]

Not really answering your question but I have a Woods RB60 rear blade that I bought with my BX. At the time no one was making the "subcut" attachments. The RB60 is a nice blade and has a tilt setting that I cannot use because the BX won't lift it high enough. I think you would find that true of most any full size Cat1 blade. If the XB blade can tilt I would keep it.

 

[harleyguy302]

When I was looking at the standard KK blade it didn't look all that different from the XB. It looked to me like it was reinforced a little better and the blade itself was only a couple of inches taller. All that I know is that I have a ton room under that blade when it is raised up. Either way I'm stuck with what I have. The XB blade should work great for snow, I just wish I would have thought through the usage of this blade for dirt.

 

[dodge man]

I don't know exactly what your blade looks like, but I can tell you what I did to mine. Mine has a set of holes so you can angle the blade, you can also turn the blade around backwards and push going backwards. I put a piece of thread all through the holes I'm not using and bolted on both side of the hole. If you can picture it when it's installed, its just sticking straight up. I then slip weight lifting weights over the top of the thread all to add weight. It doesn't take much, 20-30 pounds helps.

 

[Matt_Jr]

I have a woods RB60 for my BX24 and found although it's pretty heavy if I have the top link adjusted too short the blade won't dig/cut into the ground enough to do anything. If I were you I'd try to lengthen the top link on your TPH and see how that works. You may find that you won't have to add any weight at all. Lengthening the top link changes the angle of the blade to dig at a more agressive angle. Playing with this adjustment helps when smoothing a yard, gravel, ditches, or plowing snow. Good luck.

 

[cappys tractor]

a really popular option is the hydraulic top link. this way you can easily adjust the angle of attack for the blade (and the box for dirt retention)

the mentioned adjustment is critical to keep the dirt either scooping up and collecting IN the box, or the gradual letting out of the box. (thus the name 'box blade')

by lengthening the top link you make the box if the blade change its attitude to the ground. try this for kicks. on a flat floor (like a garage) lower the box blade down till it touches the floor. is the bottom of the box touching on both sides, and from front to back? if the box is lifted up in front then it is set to aggressively dig, if it is hitting the front tips of the box (and the blade is lifted off the ground) then it is adjusted to spread the dirt in the box and not dig so much. if it is not sitting level then the trailing arm adjustment need tweaking to level it up.

if you get the angle of the box correct it will dig pretty well with not much weight. however the use you are currently doing (digging versus spreading) will make you need to change the top link length as needed.

one thing to look for. are the lower front corners of the box all shiny? and the rest is relatively new? do you leave two furrow marks when blading? that would indicate the top link is too short.

 

[harleyguy302]

Thanks for the input! I will try messing with the Top link. I don't know why I didn't think of that on my own, duh! Also I just wanted to clarify is a rear blade not a box blade . We just had a ton of rain so everywhere I wanted to use the blade is swamp right now. When it dries out enough I'll give it a try and let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks again.

 

[mozark]

BX blade was probably the way to go, my full size KK blade required severe modification before it would even hook up to the BX2350. Required cutting and welding to fix, I enjoyed doing it myself, but wouldn't be fun if you had to hire it done. I agree, lengthen the top link. Unless the ground is very hard, it'll probably dig all you need without adding weight.

 

[mentat30]

I have the KingKutter XB blade, what I did was buy a couple of long bolts and I mount 4 suitcase weights on the back of the blade. I use the holes on the blade where the pin for the blade angle goes to bolt the weights to the blade. Works very well.

 

[JJPP]

I decided to go with the full size kk blade due to your same concern with weight and have no issues. The weight further to to rear or on top of the blade will help the most. You could just use a chain and any kind of weight you can find and hang it off of the 3pt pivot to the rear of the blade. This is about as easy as I can think of just be creative I'm sure that you can come up with something.