rear blade or front QA blade on loader for snow removal

[JeffinNE]

Thinking of ditching the push snow blower as it doesn't work well in heavy snows for either a 6 foot rear blade or this quick attach front loader blade. The rear blade would be a King Kutter or County Line model costing in the low $300 range and I would add a piece of horse stall mat as I've read in other posts so as not to cut into my 55 yard long cement driveway. I've found this QA front blade from Extreme Metal Products--see this link. Cost is $1099 plus shipping.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...34GQCw&usg=AFQjCNErtWK35xOgRzCYbRLe41Svesw4Qg

I have a JD 2320 with the 200 CX loader. Looking for opinions regarding these two options. The lower cost of the rear blade is certainly appealing and I would use it driving forward for the most part. Most of our snows in Nebraska are in the 2"-6" inch range and just a few of those in a normal year (if there is such thing as a normal year!). If we would get a bigger snow I'd always have the bucket on the loader to help if using a rear blade. The front push option just looks easier and faster.

 

[Thomas]

Consider how much plowing you have to do.
Your neck might be tender after while,plus you'll have to keep those snow banks push back tad more.
Have you consider front plow?

 

[nybirdman]

Go with the front.I have and use both,wouldn't be without the front blade.Rear is only used to pull away from buildings or scrape down to the asphalt on paved drives.Add rear weight& chains if you have R4's.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I am wondering why you don't like your snow thrower ? When you say heavy snow you must mean wet snow rather than deep snow. Wet snow is hard to deal with. I have never used a front blade except on a truck but I have used a rear blade to plow snow with the tractor. To me a front blade would have to be a better way to go like birdman says.

 

[mark02tj]

Check this blade out as well. I have no connection to them but it looks like a great blade and heavier duty than the one you linked to. A little more expensive but not much.

 

[GPintheMitten]

It depends on your pocket book. Either one will do it. The front being more convenient. I've done a lot over the years with a rear 3pt blade. Heavy snows and windrows can be handled by the loader. The rear blade has other uses in summer. I don't think either blade will harm your concrete.

 

[JeffinNE]

I am wondering why you don't like your snow thrower ? When you say heavy snow you must mean wet snow rather than deep snow. Wet snow is hard to deal with. I have never used a front blade except on a truck but I have used a rear blade to plow snow with the tractor. To me a front blade would have to be a better way to go like birdman says.

It's a Craftsman walk behind and takes over an hour most times. Looking for a quicker option (and some tractor time in winter!) for those mornings I need to get wife and kids out the door in time on snow covered mornings.

 

[JeffinNE]

Check this blade out as well. I have no connection to them but it looks like a great blade and heavier duty than the one you linked to. A little more expensive but not much.

Thanks---thicker steel and not much more $$ would be worth it over time. Couldn't find anything on shipping charges?

 

[BrokenAxle46]

I have a JD2320 (24hp) and using a Woods 6 foot rear blade. Since I use the rear blade in summer I get more use out of the rear blade than I would a front blade. I have a 200cx FEL with teeth on the bucket, it cuts ice well in packed snow. Pushing snow works better than pulling but has certain disadvantages as does the rear blade. Each piece of equipment only works as well as the person operating the machinery is able to manipulate it. There could be a point where the cost of special attachments for specific only jobs out weighs the purpose in which case it might be cheaper to pay someone else to move the snow for you. Personally, I learn to master what I can reasonably justify cost wise and thankful I don't have to shovel it by hand.

 

[RoyJackson]

Rear blades work fine and you don't have to have an eye on them if you drive forward.. If you're concerned about the blade digging in, get one that rotates 180 degrees and plow with the convex side...or slit a length of ABS pipe to fit the blade's width.
One downside of a rear blade is if you hit an immovable object, they don't trip and there is a potential of damaging a lower link arm.