Rear Blade Rear Blade Problem

[oldballs]

My new Rhino 200 rear blade only touches a flat surface at its tips. Thus when scraping snow off a driveway or even dirt grading the outer edges dig in and the center part is about 3/8 " off the surface. Is this a defect in the product and can the dealer correct it? I dismantled the blade from the mold board, but there is no adjustment that's allowed. This TBN board is so helpful. Thanks, everybody.
Oldballs, Mike

 

[kthompson]

So if you run a string or straight edge from one end to the other it clears every where when in contact with both ends only. Right?

There probably is some tolerance on how much clearance is acceptable with this and that probably would best come from Rhino. It would be something I don't think would be easy to fix are at least on any blade I have ever seen.

Then is it possibly the cutting edge only and changing it out solves the problem. No idea on your model but some have blades designed with both edges usable, if yours is have you tried the other edge?

 

[oldballs]

Thanks, thompson. Having taken the blade off the mold board, it's not reverseable. But when I get to the dealer, maybe he can have Rhino replace it with a straight one....or maybe he can grind the tips off some. Maybe I could run down a concrete hyway for a while.....that ought to level it out.

 

[beenthere]

3/8" ?
Not many more uses, and you will have that much ground off the tips.

Can't imagine 3/8" is much of a problem scraping snow off. That is a pretty thin layer of snow.

 

[jimmer2880]

Can you take a picture so we are sure what you are talking about? If the blade is straight (not on a left/right angle), does all of it touch?

 

[leveller]

If the blade has a slight curve to it, may be all you need to do is lenghthen your top link a little bit. Set your blade down on a flat surface, then adjust top link till bottom edge touches all the way across. May or may not work, just a thought

 

[Opti-Mist]

Actually, with the rig setting on a flat surface, the rear blade frame should be level fore and aft and side to side with the top link mast vertical. Adjusted thusly the blades should stay level when angled throughout the range from full right to full left. Shortening or extending the top link will result in one side being higher than the other depending on which direction it is angled.

 

[KennyV]

...or maybe he can grind the tips off some. Maybe I could run down a concrete hyway for a while.....that ought to level it out.

I use to reshape my 14' Cat motor grader blade just that way... curl all the way forward angled first full CW then CCW... you could hone a razor sharp cutting edge quickly... Did not take many yards of honing to keep it in nice shape. KennyV

 

[leveller]

Actually, with the rig setting on a flat surface, the rear blade frame should be level fore and aft and side to side with the top link mast vertical. Adjusted thusly the blades should stay level when angled throughout the range from full right to full left. Shortening or extending the top link will result in one side being higher than the other depending on which direction it is angled.

I agree with you, just wondered if he had top link adjusted properly.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Actually, with the rig setting on a flat surface, the rear blade frame should be level fore and aft and side to side with the top link mast vertical. Adjusted thusly the blades should stay level when angled throughout the range from full right to full left. Shortening or extending the top link will result in one side being higher than the other depending on which direction it is angled.

I also agree with you.

Question....What position is the top link mast when it is "vertical." I don't understand.??

I agree about using the top link to "tilt" the blade a bit.