Rear Blade Rear Blade Problem

   / Rear Blade Problem
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for the ideas everybody. The blade just is not level when it sits down on a level surface. Thus, when grading snow, the two ends really scratch my new concrete driveway, as well as leave a shallow hump of snow in the middle. Maybe some more dirt grading later this year will hone it down on the tips. Maybe my dealer can grind it straight, when I bring it to his attention.
 
   / Rear Blade Problem #12  
Well - if the 2 corners hit at the same time, I would say your blade is 'level', but if it doesn't touch in the middle, it would be 'bowed'. That might be why folks are a little confused as to what is going on.

Typically you hit something hard and the blade bows fore or aft. In your case, it is bowed up in the middle?

BUT if the blade is bowed for or aft, it might show up as what you are talking about. Lengthening your top link would make this effect disappear, so that is the only thing we can think of.

--->Paul
 
   / Rear Blade Problem #13  
Get your eyes and the blade where you can sight down the cutting edge of the blade with the attachment mounted on your tractor.
If the edge is crooked fore to aft then it is bowed;
if it's crooked up and down, then it's crowned.
-Jim
 
   / Rear Blade Problem #14  
You need to loosen up your toplink to drop the middle of the blade. As you do that, your corners will rotate up and not dig in. If your top link is too tight your blade looks more like this \. As you loosen it it will look like this ), and if you loosen it some more, maybe too much it'll look like this /. This is what I figured out when I installed my rear blade. When the toplonk is as tight as it will go, I get the greatest height, which is necessary when I am loading onto the trailer, but then I have to re-adjust when I am plowing. When the toplink is loose, you get the least amount of height when you raise the unit.

John
 
   / Rear Blade Problem
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Okay! Now it's making some sense to me. Seems like many times when I think there is a defective product, it just my defective thinking:eek: Now if this next storm brings some snow, I'll check that out with the top link adjustment. Thank you all.
 
   / Rear Blade Problem #16  
Post some pictures pls. We like pics and maybe can offer some more hints. :)
 
   / Rear Blade Problem
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Hey...65 years ago I took typing and took pictures with a bellows camera. But I haven't stayed up with the times for computer pizzaz and digital cameras. Maybe after I pay for all these new tractor attachments, I'll get the fancy camera and figure out whether I'm Bowed or it's Crowned.:D:D
 
   / Rear Blade Problem #18  
reading your description that does sound like you got a defective product. I guess people are having a hard time with the fact that the blade edge looks like a frown instead of a straight edge. I'd take the blade back or maybe the whole unit and ask for a replacement if it's still new. If you know anybody who can build another edge that might help. You could take to someone to put a bead of weld along the edge and then gride it straight.

Wedge
 
   / Rear Blade Problem #19  
I think if the straight edge you bought is not straight you should take it back. Surely if you were to run this on a crowned road long enough you may have this problem, but a new blade should be straight. If it doesn't start out true I don't think it is going to get better with time.
 
   / Rear Blade Problem #20  
Take it back and get a different one.. The blade should be straight AND flat. If you have two corners touching the ground at the same time while the middle of the blade is not, then there is something wrong with it.

As for tilting the blade fore and aft, personally I use that to control the aggressiveness of the cut. If the blade is not straight and flat, you can't do that.
 
 

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