Rear Blade size

[Mallard1]

I have a JD 4320 that is 47hp with r4 loaded tires and 4x4 with the ehydro transmission. with the loader I believe it weighs around 5700 lbs. I would like to add a 6 way hydraulic rear blade but don't know what size to get and what would be to big. My FIL has a 8' I believe modern ag but it is cat 2 and my tractor is only cat 1 so there is not a good way to test. the primary function of this will be to clean out ditches. most of the time it will be spent swung out to the side and angled down. the soil type will vary between sand and some clay. all of the gravel is red clay gravel. I do have a land plane for smoothing the top of the road. were lucky if we get 2" of snow a year so that is not a use for it.

anyone have any ideas of what I should be looking for. I don't want a blade that will bend the first time it hangs a root and also don't want a 10' blade that will stall the tractor if i set it down on the ground.

 

[airbiscuit]

I think that a 7' blade is about the right size for that tractor in general terms. For your use, I think you would want an Offset Rear Blade. That means that it not only angles left or right, but it also swings left or right to move out farther past your wheel.

 

[Thomas]

Woods products are good. :thumbsup:

 

[airbiscuit]

Manual or hydraulic offset.

 

[Mallard1]

Thanks for the help, I have 3 open remotes on the rear plus a hydraulic top link so I would like to have swing, tilt and angle all be hydraulic like the suggestions above. I got to thinking, Is there any reason I couldn't temporary use bushing to take up the slack in the pins and try the 8' cat 2 blade of my FIL to see how it handles and see if I just get yanked sideways or not?

 

[CoyPatton]

Not sure how bushings are going to help with a cat 2 implement (larger pins) and a cat 1 tractor (smaller pin holes), but if you have that worked out, go for it. Also talk to your FIL, some cat 2 implements have a second set of connection points where a smaller pin can be place for Cat 1.
Using a old guide that I learned as a kid (now 59), is 1 foot of implement width per 6 engine HP. You are 1 hp shy of 8’ implement width. Of course this is amax width guide and not for an offset implement which changes the stressors on the tractor
Personally, I would suggest you roughly measure for the narrowest offset that will grant you the reach you need. Then make sure that when blade is centered and at 30-45 degrees it will cover rear tire width of your tractor.

 

[Mallard1]

Not sure how bushings are going to help with a cat 2 implement (larger pins) and a cat 1 tractor (smaller pin holes), but if you have that worked out, go for it. Also talk to your FIL, some cat 2 implements have a second set of connection points where a smaller pin can be place for Cat 1.
Using a old guide that I learned as a kid (now 59), is 1 foot of implement width per 6 engine HP. You are 1 hp shy of 8’ implement width. Of course this is amax width guide and not for an offset implement which changes the stressors on the tractor
Personally, I would suggest you roughly measure for the narrowest offset that will grant you the reach you need. Then make sure that when blade is centered and at 30-45 degrees it will cover rear tire width of your tractor.

Thanks, we will be down there in the next couple weeks so I might haul the tractor down there and see. the blade uses a clevis setup so what I thought about doing was to use a cat 1 pin with 1-2 bushings on either side of my lift arms with the bushings going through the blade's clevis. I will check the blade and see if it has cat 1 attachment holes, if so that makes it easier. I have a light weight 7' blade and power has never been an issue but it is a lot lighter than his 8'. the current 7' will just skip across ground that is hard. it is only good for smoothing loose materials.

What I really want and "need" is a motor grader but hate to spend that kind of money on a one trick pony.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My :2cents:. I believe that a Land Pride RBT3596 would be the perfect blade for your needs.
A 7 footer is small for your tractor. An 8 footer would be good. You get 30" of offset capabilities and that is GREAT for cleaning out road side ditches.
I highly recommend that you also get the skid shoes. They really help preventing gouging. There are several good hydraulic blades available, but the LP units have the largest offset capabilities and are cat 1-2 hitches. In fact I believe that no other rear blade exceeds the LP units in all capabilities.

Go through all the different specs and see for yourself.

Something to consider is purchasing the blade with no adjusters at all, no manual, no hydraulic links. Then you purchase welded cylinders with larger rods and have cleaner stronger hydraulics for less money. Order your own hose kits and then you have the hoses at the correct lengths instead of needing to have hose rolled up when you get the manufacturer hose sets which are always long. :thumbdown:

Good luck with your research and final decisions.

 

[oosik]

I have a Rhino 950 rear blade. It tilts, reverses, tips, angles and offsets. It's 8 foot & 1050#. The next size down - 850 & 7' might just be the blade you need. When dealing with any land engagement implement - weight is your friend. View attachment 665284 The hydraulic top link makes adjustments a breeze.

BTW - my unit has "stepped" pins for the lower arms. If you are attaching to Cat 1 - use the inner linkage on the blade. If using Cat 2 - use the outer linkage on the blade. The hydraulic top link is Cat 2 to Cat 2. It can be bushed down to Cat 1 if required.

 

[Mallard1]

I got a chance to try out the modern ag 8' rear blade with the three hydraulic cylinders. I don't know how heavy it is but its not light. It pulled it and was able to cut a ditch but it was all the tractor wanted. I had to be careful not to bury the blade to deep. This might be common for the larger heavy blades though. All I have to compare it to is a light duty 7' blade that you can just lower the position control all the way and go and it would never bite hard enough to stop the tractor. I did like the length of the 8' though so will probably stay with 8'. now i just need to find the weight of the modern ag blade and possibly look for one a tad lighter. it looks like they have taken it off their website so i'll try and give them a call.

The blade did end up being cat 2 only, it had clevis hook up on the lift arms. we were able to run a longer pin through them and just inside of the clevis we put a 2-3 bushing which let me put the I-Match on it. I will try and find one that has the correct width when I order one.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

This thread is similar to mine. It's at the bottom of the page in this forum. You can look at the 8+ pages of responses that I got. I ended up getting an 8' Land Pride rbt4096.

 

[oosik]

My Rhino 950 is Cat 2 - 96" @ 1050#. I need a heavy blade because my mile long gravel driveway turns to concrete in the summer. I had a Land Pride - 96" @ 760#. It was, simply, too light. It drug along the driveway and made sparks.

I do have to keep watch when using the Rhino. It can "take hold" and go deeper & deeper. A tap on either the hydraulic top link or the 3-point controls will correct this.

 

[Mallard1]

Well I heard back from modern ag on the blade weight, they couldn稚 find any of the old info on the blade as they have discontinued it but estimates it weighs 2,000 lbs. sounds like they didn稚 have a clue because it is not that heavy. I guess I値l have to put it on a scale

 

[rScotty]

My Rhino 950 is Cat 2 - 96" @ 1050#. I need a heavy blade because my mile long gravel driveway turns to concrete in the summer. I had a Land Pride - 96" @ 760#. It was, simply, too light. It drug along the driveway and made sparks.

I do have to keep watch when using the Rhino. It can "take hold" and go deeper & deeper. A tap on either the hydraulic top link or the 3-point controls will correct this.

I have an old Servis Big Rhino model WM3. 8 foot blade, real heavily built. tilt/angle/offset All manual. We pull it with our JD 530 - about a 5500 lb typical Ag tractor somewhere between an old JD B or A in power & size. It has end caps to act like a box blade when needed. Or more often like a one-sided box blade with angle. I'm going to guess 1000 lbs. - but would like to really know someday.
It's not likely to bend....
I couldn't pull it in damp dirt, but can in gravel and crushed rock - but not clear full. It is all the tractor can handle.
The reason it can handle it at all is simple: Draft Control. The JD has really nice draft control. I set the draft control for how hard to pull and the tractor 3pt automatically raises and lowers it.
rScotty

 

[Gator6x4]

I have a JD 4320 that is 47hp with r4 loaded tires and 4x4 with the ehydro transmission. with the loader I believe it weighs around 5700 lbs. I would like to add a 6 way hydraulic rear blade but don't know what size to get and what would be to big. My FIL has a 8' I believe modern ag but it is cat 2 and my tractor is only cat 1 so there is not a good way to test. the primary function of this will be to clean out ditches. most of the time it will be spent swung out to the side and angled down. the soil type will vary between sand and some clay. all of the gravel is red clay gravel. I do have a land plane for smoothing the top of the road. were lucky if we get 2" of snow a year so that is not a use for it.

anyone have any ideas of what I should be looking for. I don't want a blade that will bend the first time it hangs a root and also don't want a 10' blade that will stall the tractor if i set it down on the ground.

When in school in the summers I worked for a Large Nursery. The Nursery had miles of dirt roads to maintain. I have spent many hours riding on a Leaning Wheel Grader being pulled by a Farmall M. If you could find a Leaning Wheel Grader for sale it would fit your needs perfectly.

Farmall H Tractor & Adams Adjustable Leaning Wheel Grader Fixing The Road - YouTube

 

[oosik]

OK, guys - here is how I weigh things. Within a twelve mile range I have two options. The State Highway Dept. Weigh scales - I go there, wait until they are not busy - buzz onto the scales - do my thing.

OR - I can head into Cheney - go to the ADM( Archer Daniels Midland ) grain scales.

Drive onto the scales with the new implement attached to the tractor. Get the total weight. Pull off the scales - drop the implement - reweigh the tractor w/o the implement.

The reason I don't weigh any new implement alone & by itself. Both of these scales are "large vehicle" weight scales. They are far more accurate at heavier weights ( my tractor - 10,010#) than at the lighter weights of just an implement ( my Rhino 950 - 1050#).