Rear Blade Rear blade weight

[kf4uda]

I just bought a Ratchet Rake to help in some brush cleanup projects but it will also serve as a driveway rake. This might solve your problem by breaking up the driveway and then re-grade with your rear blade. I purchased a 72" Ratchet Rake. You would need to measure your bucket for the right size. I paid $479.99 delivered to my door.

 

[LouNY]

Nice blade, I'd for sure be adding hydraulic tilt and angle to it, especially for cleaning out ditches and pulling gravel back into the driveway.

 

[MF243RedTop]

There's no blade on the market IMO.. BUILT as HEAVY or as sound as they need to be ...
When in doubt fabricate....

 

[oosik]

RustyA - a short story about my rear blade. As you can see - it only has hydraulic top link. So...second or third time I'm using it on the driveway ditches. Tractor is parked on the driveway. A little side slope but not really much. Pull the pin and manually adjust angle. Pull the pin and begin to adjust side shift. I trip and fall backwards. Reach up to stop the blade. It's too heavy.....I can't stop it. It make a slice right over the top of me.

Thank God - I've got my Carhart canvas coat on. It made a perfect cut completely across the front of the coat. It WAS a good coat too. Saved my bacon. All future adjustments have been done on a perfectly level spot in the yard. Gravity and a 1050# rear blade can do weird things.

 

[jyoutz]

I currently have a Land Pride RB3596 @ 566# on the 3-point of my M6040. It does great for plowing snow but will do little to nothing on my concrete hard driveway in the summer. Even with the hydraulic top link extended - i.e. max cutting angle for the rear blade - it just, more or less, bounces along.

My thought - I NEED MORE WEIGHT. Sooo.... what's your suggestion for the max weight I can add to this blade without causing damage to its structure/attachment points.

I'm also considering a new - and much heavier - rear blade. Rhino 950, 8 foot, at around 1000#, after the manual kits are installed.

The reason for this query is obvious - I can add XX amount of weight to my existing blade for almost nothing - the new Rhino blade will set me back around $3500.

Your suggestions and experiences will be greatly appreciated. Oosik

I’ve been very impressed with this blade. It’s heavy and cuts hard road surfaces and doesn’t bounce and chatter. With Cat2 pins and set up for hydraulics if you decide to do that. I paid $2600 a little over a year ago:

96" Bison 3-Point Tractor Rear Angle Blade Model NB80-240

96" Bison 3-Point Tractor Rear Angle Blade Model NB80-240

www.durattach.com

 

[jyoutz]

RustyA - a short story about my rear blade. As you can see - it only has hydraulic top link. So...second or third time I'm using it on the driveway ditches. Tractor is parked on the driveway. A little side slope but not really much. Pull the pin and manually adjust angle. Pull the pin and begin to adjust side shift. I trip and fall backwards. Reach up to stop the blade. It's too heavy.....I can't stop it. It make a slice right over the top of me.

Thank God - I've got my Carhart canvas coat on. It made a perfect cut completely across the front of the coat. It WAS a good coat too. Saved my bacon. All future adjustments have been done on a perfectly level spot in the yard. Gravity and a 1050# rear blade can do weird things.

I had a similar experience with my Bison blade and found a low cost solution. The offset function is what would throw me around on unlevel ground. I replaced the telescoping link with a ratchet jack link for about $50. Now I can safely offset the blade.

Adjustable Ratchet Jack | Agri Supply 106054

This is an adjustable ratchet jack that can extend to 29-7/8 inches and collapse to 20-7/16 inch. This adjustable ratchet jack is made from a mild steel.

www.agrisupply.com

 

[EdGooding]

I currently have a Land Pride RB3596 @ 566# on the 3-point of my M6040. It does great for plowing snow but will do little to nothing on my concrete hard driveway in the summer. Even with the hydraulic top link extended - i.e. max cutting angle for the rear blade - it just, more or less, bounces along.

My thought - I NEED MORE WEIGHT. Sooo.... what's your suggestion for the max weight I can add to this blade without causing damage to its structure/attachment points.

I'm also considering a new - and much heavier - rear blade. Rhino 950, 8 foot, at around 1000#, after the manual kits are installed.

The reason for this query is obvious - I can add XX amount of weight to my existing blade for almost nothing - the new Rhino blade will set me back around $3500.

Your suggestions and experiences will be greatly appreciated. Oosik

Here's a tutorial that shows how to construct some concrete weights: https://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Make-Weights-for-Rear-Blades.pdf

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Make hay when the sun shines. We don't make it in the rain. Same with grading. Wait until the moisture is right to work the dirt. Sometimes when we had to work it and it was dry, we had a water truck for the moisture and used two bull dozers and a road grader to work the dirt. Even bull dozers don't like dry hard dirt. We don't do things when we want to, we do it when the ground is right. My brother and I built a heavy box grader, and it WILL get down and grade a hard surface. But we still pull an offset disc over it first. Early spring is best. We wait until things are in a favorable condition.

 

[BadDecisions]

Wow... Sure is nice to find a forum where people get that we don't all live and work in prime soil conditions . I've been on other forums where people were like "my light duty blade works just fine behind my SCUT...must be operator error"

Going from Michigan to southern Arizona was a bit of a shock for me in that regard. In Michigan I could hand shovel a hole big enough to bury the tractor in an afternoon.. Here in Arizona it took me all day to bust up a 2x3 hole about a foot deep...became all too familiar with "ground like concrete when dry" lol.
I have some generic light duty 6 foot blade that I assume was an Asian import..bought it cheap off Craigslist. First time I tried to drag it down my driveway, it just bounced and did little. "Need more weight!" Stacked a bunch of iron on it, and proceeded to bend the crap out of the pivot bolt and plate..while it continued to bounce and do little else

Picked up a box blade yesterday to fix that problem.

 

[MF243RedTop]

Wow... Sure is nice to find a forum where people get that we don't all live and work in prime soil conditions . I've been on other forums where people were like "my light duty blade works just fine behind my SCUT...must be operator error"

Going from Michigan to southern Arizona was a bit of a shock for me in that regard. In Michigan I could hand shovel a hole big enough to bury the tractor in an afternoon.. Here in Arizona it took me all day to bust up a 2x3 hole about a foot deep...became all too familiar with "ground like concrete when dry" lol.
I have some generic light duty 6 foot blade that I assume was an Asian import..bought it cheap off Craigslist. First time I tried to drag it down my driveway, it just bounced and did little. "Need more weight!" Stacked a bunch of iron on it, and proceeded to bend the crap out of the pivot bolt and plate..while it continued to bounce and do little else

Picked up a box blade yesterday to fix that problem.

Entire reasoning behind fabbing my own blade.... Yeah it may not have as many pleasure points as the rest on the market . But no matter how hard I beat it up or what I put it through... It will constantly dig and throw dirt with a slight adjustment...

And yeah it's heavy enough from the start ..