Grading Rear blade?

Reg · Dec 13, 2009

When NEW a rear blade has sharp corners, you might dislike what those can do to a driveway.
There are a number of posts about pipe edges and hard plastic cutting edges.

If you get one that can be swung around and run backwards;
a) Your learning curve will be easier,
b) It might ride up and over the snow if it is light and the snow is heavy.
c) The driveway damage while the corners are sharp will be less.

You can get around b) by taking smaller bites and/or getting out there before it gets too deep.

a 'NOTHER enhancement is to replace your side links with chains, so the blade can follow the road and not dig a corner in when one side of the tractor goes over a bump.

By the time the corners are rounded you will probably have a better idea of what you are doing and can turn it around to face front.

jb62901 · Dec 14, 2009

I have made both a front and rear blade. Was able to use them this past week for the first time

Our first snow fall was 8" and had no problems using both. Should it pile up to high I can put the FEL on. Will see what the rest of the winter brings. With only $150 in both think I did ok... John

http://i46.tinypic.com/2150s34.jpg

YotaBota · Dec 14, 2009

Thank you for all your replies. The dealer is pretty much against the idea of using a rear blade and the front end loader to move snow. My cousin uses that setup on the farm, says that the blower wasn't the "best" solution for them. We typically get several feet of snow annually, but so far nothing to even worry about shovelling yet much less worry about plowing. My gravel drive is about 80' long and 50' wide plus some additional parking area. I also will be clearing 2 small 12 stall parking lots on my income property. If I could get jb to fabricate a front and rear blade for me for $150 I'd be down there in a heartbeat

I wouldn't mind seeing more pics and info on that setup-looks nicely done! Especially considering the budget. Will end up making a trip to the dealer for a 60" blade after Christmas it looks like, and consider a front mounted blower next year. But $4000 is soooooo much money, maybe not next year either.

12pack · Dec 15, 2009

On my BX-22 I have been using the FEL and 5' rear blade for a couple of seasons.

I have about 500' of 10' wide blacktop +-

I think it works great up to about 8" or more of snow. Then the BX-22 has a problem with the weight of the snow and weight of the tractor. I usually drop the loader in float position, angle the rear blade and may have to make a couple of runs to clear a path in the real deep stuff.

But anything less than 8" or so it works pretty well.

If I get a real bad snow I just get out the walkbehind 10hp 34" snowblower and do it like the old days.

Obviously the drawback with a FEL and rear blade combo / compared to a tractor mounted snowblower is the ability of the snowblower to "blow" the snow out and away from the sides of the driveway, house etc.....

I keep saying I am going to get a rear mounted snowblower but I always find something else to spend my money on.

Get the blower if you can justify spending the bucks.

robertm · Dec 18, 2009

Reg said:
...There are a number of posts about pipe edges and hard plastic cutting edges...

I bought 1/2" X 6" rubber edges for my 72" RB1572 Land Pride rear blade and the loader. Mounting the rubber on the rear blade wasn't easy, and I should have gotten 8" wide instead. Anyhow, It really seems to save my asphalt so far. I cussed the first time because I had the blade improperly adjusted on my BX2660 and the rubber caused the blade to ride over hard wet snow. The next night I adjusted everything, and it works nicely. The biggest problem is I had to use standard hex bolts to attach the rubber (found no plow bolts long enough locally), so the bolt heads and the rubber don't let the snow flow across the angled blade and roll off to the side as well. Eight inches of soupy wet snow still was no match for the BX with turf tires. I may be looking for a set of R4's before next year for fun. I still want to mount the rubber edge on the loader, but I can't seem to find time yet.

johann · Dec 18, 2009

Why is the dealer against using the FEL and the rear blade? I figure if the machine is designed to move dirt and stone with them than snow should be no problem, unless the problem is that the dealer has already sold you a rear blade,...... then that seems more like the dealers problem.
I would try the rear blade and FEL first, you might find it works for you and that the fatter wallet is more comfortable.

bigdad · Dec 19, 2009

johann said:
Why is the dealer against using the FEL and the rear blade? I figure if the machine is designed to move dirt and stone with them than snow should be no problem, unless the problem is that the dealer has already sold you a rear blade,...... then that seems more like the dealers problem.
I would try the rear blade and FEL first, you might find it works for you and that the fatter wallet is more comfortable.

Maybe the dealer would like to sell a 4 figure snow blower???? It is their living.

C6rider · Dec 19, 2009

I have a gravel road and a gravel drive. My BX24 has a FEL and a Woods RB60. works ok but I am going to have to put on one of those plastic pipes over the cutting edge so I don't tear up the road so much. Wish I could take the gauge wheels off my LR60 and put them on the RB60 for the winter.

johann · Dec 20, 2009

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johann · Dec 20, 2009

Sorry about last post, I must have hit something wrong...... what I was trying to reply..... c6rider where did your guage wheels attach to your machine? in my manual for my bx2200 there is a picture of guage wheels, but it does not give any information about them.I thought that mabe they would attach to the mower deck arms when the deck is not on.

bstrom · Dec 20, 2009

Sorry if this has been posted already since it is common knowledge but you can turn your rear blade around so the convex face is going in the direction you are pulling or pushing and it won't dig in as much. You might need to weight it down with something too. Also there is the plastic pipe trick on the cutting edge.

Reg · Dec 20, 2009

tubzz said:
for fear of sounding like a newbie whats the trick?

Get a length of plastic pipe - ABS.
Cut it to the length of the blade or loader cutting edge.
Run it through a table saw - be CAREFUL !
You MIGHT have to use a dado blade to get a wide enough slot.
Spring it open and fit it on the cutting edge.

Walk back to pick it up and re-fit it as needed (-:

C6rider · Dec 22, 2009

johann said:
Sorry about last post, I must have hit something wrong...... what I was trying to reply..... c6rider where did your guage wheels attach to your machine? in my manual for my bx2200 there is a picture of guage wheels, but it does not give any information about them.I thought that mabe they would attach to the mower deck arms when the deck is not on.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. The gauge wheels are part of the Woods LR60. Looks like a york rake with 2 approx 7" diameter adjustable height wheels on the rear to control the height.
Woods Equipment Company - 72'' Standard-Duty Landscape Rake - Model LR72

Ord · Dec 24, 2009

Reg said:
...

If you get one that can be swung around and run backwards;
a) Your learning curve will be easier,
b) It might ride up and over the snow if it is light and the snow is heavy.
c) The driveway damage while the corners are sharp will be less.

...

local dealer said that their 48" blade could be swung around to use backwards without removing from the machine, but that with the 60" I would have to take if off the 3PH when I wanted to reverse it. Is that something important to consider? I'm thinking I will not often need to change it's facing, so the wider blade would be better for me.

Deano · Dec 24, 2009

Ord said:
local dealer said that their 48" blade could be swung around to use backwards without removing from the machine, but that with the 60" I would have to take if off the 3PH when I wanted to reverse it. Is that something important to consider? I'm thinking I will not often need to change it's facing, so the wider blade would be better for me.

I agree. For me the wider blade would be better.

Deano

NuBota · Dec 24, 2009

Ord said:
local dealer said that their 48" blade could be swung around to use backwards without removing from the machine, but that with the 60" I would have to take if off the 3PH when I wanted to reverse it. Is that something important to consider? I'm thinking I will not often need to change it's facing, so the wider blade would be better for me.

I have the Woods RB60 on my BX24 and it swings around just fine without removing from the 3ph. Even more clearance with pat's Easy Change, but it worked fine on the factory setup as well - tight - but worked

Also, my drive is paved, but I clear the 200' dirt trail to my shed as well. I have the skid shoes for the RB60 and set it up so they blade is 1/2" above grade - works just fine. The skid shoes ain't cheap, but definately work.

Reg · Dec 24, 2009

Ord said:
local dealer said that their 48" blade could be swung around to use backwards without removing from the machine, but that with the 60" I would have to take if off the 3PH when I wanted to reverse it. Is that something important to consider? I'm thinking I will not often need to change it's facing, so the wider blade would be better for me.

I forgot what tractor you have...
Anyway, "local dealer" could be wrong about that, e.g. I "shouldn't be able to" swing a 7 ft blade around behind mine, but if I lift it and suck the hydraulic top link in enough it clears the tires.
If I pull it in too much it hits the ground (-:

Another way to get a few more inches of clearance would be with those (supposedly) quick hook up gizmos, they extend the lift pins out another 3 or 4 inches, maybe more.