Rear Blade Rear blades with 3-way hydraulic adjustments?

[Catman1]

Thanks Brian for the info. I think I will tell my dealer to add the TNT as I will already have the 3 remotes from the factory.

I do need to work some of the road at a steep section when the road is 10 to 13 degrees. I would like to move dirt from the top and take its' level lower and put that dirt on the lower part of the road to try to get the slope down to 8 to 10 degrees. Then I can use something to shape (and crown) the road and to dig the V side ditch. I might need to get someone (or rent one ) with a dump truck that I can fill with dirt and move it to where I need it. I might need to move the dirt 150 to 300 feet. I could use the loader in a pinch.

So I understand you to say I could dig the V ditches better with a rear blade then use a Road Boss or similar implement to keep it? The road is decomposed granite ( kinda like a find gravel ) that makes excellent road base.

BTW, I will also have a 8.5 foot snow plow for the tractor that I can remove the spring lockouts to do some grading with. I use a snow blade here a lot!!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Catman1, I too have DG for my roads, about 1 & 1/2 miles worth that I maintain. The rear blade is probably the best implement for ditches along side a road IMO. A Road Boss type grader is best for finishing the surface of the road. I use mine mainly for cutting the wash-board out of the road, but you can also put a crown in a road. It will also take woop-te-doos out. It is not good at moving a lot of dirt to any given spot like a box blade is. Mine will dig 1" max per cut, others may vary.

If I were in your situation with my equipment, I would cut the road down myself. But that is just me. Do you need or are you buying implements for I'm assuming a new tractor? How big are you getting or have? It may pay to have the road reworked by a professional, not that that means that it will get done right either. (sort of why I do most things myself)

Here is a list of the implements that I have that I would use for your road job

Gannon rollover box blade, to rip & move dirt
Rear blade, contouring & ditching
Road Boss grader blade, making final grade cut, eliminating any rough cuts & mess-ups
Landscape rake, final smoothing grade (very smooth)

oh, and if that seemed like it was taking to long, my Case dozer.

 

[Catman1]

Thanks Brian for the info. I have 3/4 of a mile half of which is that 10-13 degree slope. BTW what is a woop-te-doo? I probably know one if a see one. It would also be great to not have any washboard.

My M8540 should be in the next week or two and that should have the power to do the work myself. A neighbor is trying to sell a Allis -Chalmers Bull Dozer 545 for $2000. He just bought the property. Another neighbor who has worked on it a little says the steering is frozen and will have to be repaired (about 25 hours work + parts) and needs new battery.. That would be a good addition to mass move dirt but it could cost a lot to get running. If I offered 3 or 4 hundred, I don't know if it would be a good deal. I don't know any thing about a AC.

I will consider that buying list and I do like the rake. Many on this forum have talked about them.

 

[Catman1]

By the way, here is pic of the AC

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Catman1, imagine sort of like a washboard, but much bigger. Sort of like a dip 1st, then a bump. Common for beginner graders to make these, you cut to deep, then over correct and dump the load that you had just cut. Thus getting the dip & bump effect. Some people call this a woop-te-doo, if you drive through this very fast, it can get you airborne.

As far as the implement list, with an M8540, this is what I would be thinking about.

For a box blade, either a Gannon rollover box blade, or if $$$ is easy, Gannon or other name brand with hydraulic rippers. Gannon is probably a little better.
get only a heavy duty or extra heavy duty box blade. Anything else is a waste of money for you.

For a rear blade, again only one with hydraulic operated angle & offset. It gets very tiresome getting on & off the tractor to constantly make these changes. Trust me I know. If I had not already spent $1000 on a Midwest rear blade, I would be buying a Land Pride series RBT4096 or a RBT4596, both 96" wide. But instead I am going to re-work my blade, beef it up & add hydraulics.

A Road Boss type grader blade is sure nice to have when having to maintain any length of a road. Makes things a lot easier to do. My guess is that the lighter weight ones won't work as well as a heavy duty one. If you decide that you do want one of these, a close by dealer had 3 of the ones like I got left. They are very reasonably priced. He just wants to get rid of them, says that they take up to much room.

Good luck on a landscape rake that will hold up to your M8540. Again, get as beefy of one as you can. I had bought a Midwest one for about $500. What a mistake, it bent, and then bent more, and then, well I had to re-build it. I got what I had paid for and it was not for a 75HP, 10,000lb tractor. I still am not happy with it, probably will re-build the re-build and put Hydraulics on it also.

 

[Catman1]

Thanks MtnViewRanch for that good list of implements. It's very helpful to know what not to do as well as what to do. I will get the heavier implements. My road will need them.

I will try to avoid woop-de-doos but will probably do my share. I think I have already down a few. Do let me know the dealer who has the Boss's and I will give him a call.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[MtnViewRanch]

By the way, here is pic of the AC

View attachment 72095

Catman1, I would consider that AC for $1000, pay the neighbor to fix the steering and your good to go. Not many people on the board would agree with me, But I have had very good luck with old equipment myself and would give it a try. It would be a good machine to have some fun with.

Talk later

 

[Catman1]

I will take a good look at it and see if I can get it started with a battery. My Ford 535 may get it started. If the engine is good it might be worth it. It could move a lot of dirt.