Rear Differential lock

[BTI]

It won't usually lock before anything slips while going in a straight line.
The mechanism requires things to line up.
Such as an external gear meshing with an internal gear or a set of pins lining up with a set of holes.
Thats why it seems like you have to force it, gentle downward pressure works just as well.
In reality you can stomp all day long while standing still and if it's in just the right place it won't drop in.
Move forward and turn the wheels, making one go faster than the other, it'll drop right in.

When you step on the pedal it won't usually drop right in unless you are moving or one wheel is spinning and the other is not or you are turning.
I doesn't have to be rapid spinning.

The mechanism is spring loaded so that as long as there is some sort of pressure on the drivetrain, they will stay locked.
Usually LOL
If the backpressure is light on the drivetrain they will unlock.
Man this is hard to describe online. LOL

BTI

 

[williekioti]

I also believe Highbeam has it correct. Ok to engage stationary and when moving with both tires rolling equally. I would be real hesitant to engage Dif Lock with one wheel spinning and one stationary, gonna put a butt load of stress on the diff/axles to try and get the two tires to jive....

I usually either engage just prior to needing it or while moving as long as it's a straight line and both wheels turning equally. Engages like a charm every time. Mine either disengages instantly upon releasing lever or if under load it will release after the load lessens on the powertrain. Mine has worked flawlessly so far.

Hodak: that's a real bummer on the NH for something that could have been avoided easily(probably). I also concur, I rather prefer the old school, mechanical diff lock over a switch. If for no other reason than the situation described in your post. Most times I use it for very short duration, like filling the bucket from a pile. Occaisionally I use it in a continuous mode when pulling wood up the hill on my wood road.

EDIT; BTI you slipped in while I was typing... You are probably correct that if things aren't lined up and little slippin' or turning will help engage it. Mine seems to engage easily, almost instantly 8 out of 10 times, the other two I just keep my foot on the petal(minimal pressure) until she drops in.....

 

[Highbeam]

Maybe on that NH with electrical engagement the on/off switch could be replaced with a push button that engages the lock only so long as the button is held down.

I have this awful picture in my mind of one of our heavy or filled rear tires spinning at full speed with the other rear wheel stationary and then the operator stomps on the diff lock. Lots of energy built up in the spinning wheel just like a flywheel to break things or at the least make the tractor lurch forward.

 

[glmf]

Highbeam, you sir are correct. Checked my manual and it states to not engage if one wheel is spinning and the other is still. Don't know what I had in that brain of mine, but like I said, its not the first time I am wrong. Thanks again

 

[Mike058]

Doesn't the tractor have to be in 2WD for the diff lock to be totally effective? In 4WD, if one of the front wheels loses traction, doesn't all the torque go to that wheel through the center differential? Or is the center diff limited slip of some kind?

 

[Highbeam]

The diff lock works in 2wd or in 4wd just like the locker on a truck's differential. There must be some sort of transfer case much like a pickup truck which does not include a center differential. What this means is that when in 4wd, cornering on surfaces with good traction will cause driveline bind.

Cool that you are on the Key Pen. I own some land out there near Home.

 

[Mike058]

The diff lock works in 2wd or in 4wd just like the locker on a truck's differential. There must be some sort of transfer case much like a pickup truck which does not include a center differential. What this means is that when in 4wd, cornering on surfaces with good traction will cause driveline bind.

Cool that you are on the Key Pen. I own some land out there near Home.

How about that, so do I. It's out Jackson Lake Rd about 23 AVE KPN. About 9 miles west of the very north edge of Home.

 

[Highbeam]

I posted more in your other thread in the buying forum but I'm just south of Home on Cornwall Rd. Not many folks live out there so your plans interest me, especially your commute prospects, and kids in school.

I threw in a photo of the place after some clearing and also my truck/trailer combo so that you might recognize me on the road.

 

[dfkrug]

New owner of CK25. Great tractor. No info in manual on the differential lock. I have depressed pedal while in both two wheel and four wheel drive and cannot feel any difference. Am I missing something.

The CK25/30 owner's manual describes the operation of the diff lock on
page 5-26.

Kioti uses a shifter fork that slides an 8-pin wheel into the side of the
differential, which has 8 holes in it. They must be perfectly aligned
before the pins go into the holes. 8 pins mean there are 8 possible
rotational positions of the rear axles for the diff to be locked (every
45 degrees of rotation).

This photo is of a Kubota diff lock mechanism. It has only 2 male
parts of the key (mislabeled female in the photo), allowing only
2 rotational positions of the rear axles for the diff to be locked (every
180 deg of rotation).

 

[SPYDERLK]

This photo is of a Kubota diff lock mechanism. It has only 2 male
parts of the key (mislabeled female in the photo), allowing only
2 rotational positions of the rear axles for the diff to be locked (every
180 deg of rotation).

Do you know this for sure? 180 is a lot of rotation. Seems the female could have a double set of key recesses for the males, giving 90 degree engagement points.
larry