Grading Rear grading blade on X-model tractor?

[BluRidgDav]

Any X-model owners out there using a Rear Grading Blade?

My dealer is telling me that I'll need to use a "low profile" blade (RB1060 L ) with 10" moldboard height,
and which weighs only 150 lbs, instead of the normal RB1060 with 14" blade, which weighs 262 lbs.

I need to scape gravel occasionally, in order to maintain my driveway, which has a long gentle/short moderate slope.

Thanx, Dave.

 

[beenthere]

On my X485, I have the 54" blade on the front mount, and it is much better for working dirt and gravel (really have it for snow) with much better control than a rear blade would be, IMO.

A rear blade only can float, whereas the front blade can have down pressure (harder to steer) but also can be used to back-drag, and can be 'floated'.

Maybe others will be able to address their Rear Grading Blade for your question.

This probably should be in the 'lawn and garden' forum, not here /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[jcmseven]

Dave,

The biggest issues that the 2210 and the X series face is that each has only a Limited Cat one hitch. This does not allow for enough lift height to accomodate the larger blade, except on the flattest of ground. Both machines could pull the blade, but this is the reason. Be aware of one major point. In the catalog the x series is outfitted with an Alpha hitch. This is the most useless piece of equipment ever devised. If you go with the rear blade for the X BE SURE to get the Frontier 1060L NOT the John Deere blade, this will allow you to use the I match hitch which is very helpful. With regard to gravel drives, I would concur a FRONT blade on these machines would give you the best versatility. If you are looking to smooth your drive, I would look at the landscape rake, as it does a good if not better job smoothing driveways. They make a six footer for the X.

John M

 

[BluRidgDav]

Thanx guys for the info about front blades. Maybe I'll get one of those instead (or in addition to) the rear blade (Frontier RB1060L).

My experience with plowing, is limited to a front blade mounted to my current Craftsman 20hp Garden Tractor. With it, every time I start pushing gravel up the slope (which is not that steep), the blade digs in and one of my rear wheels starts to spin, digging a nice hole in my driveway and leaving a small pile of gravel not very far from where it started.

I figured that with a rear blade (that floats) I could at least keep moving up the slope bringing along "some" gravel, without digging in with either blade or wheels. I realize that alot of gravel will "escape" (around the ends, underneath the "floating" blade, maybe even over the top of the 10" moldboard?) during each trip. I'll just make more trips.

This obviously isn't optimum, but what I really do with my "tractor" is MOW GRASS!!! Five+ acres EVERY week!!!
The driveway needs dragging only 2-3 times per year. Which is why I'm considering the X-models rather than a 2210.

With my Sears, I have to remove the mower deck to mount the front blade. This is a PITA during mowing season, so I put off dragging the drive until late Fall. With a rear blade on the 3 pt hitch, I figured I might be able to "dress-up" the driveway more often throughout the summer, before it gets too bad. I considered getting a landscape rake, but then I read here on TBN, that they only pick-up the large gravel rocks, and leave the "fines" behind, which doesn't promote good packing of the driveway?

I've even considered getting a Box Blade, but figured a Grading Blade would be easier to use?

Any advice is welcome, that's why I'm here on TBN.

Thanx, Dave.

 

[beenthere]

Well, if you get an X, or a 2210, don't even bother with thinking in comparing them to the Craftsman. They will be 'light years' ahead in terms of the work that you can do.
The X has positraction, when needed, or 4wd if you get that, and the 2210 has 4wd.

If you pull a blade-full of gravel with the rear blade, it will be with wheel weights bolted on the wheels and with fluid in the rear tires.

The overall convenience of a front blade and the work you can do with it (float feature on the X will take good care of 'digging in too deep' ) will far out-do a rear blade.

You are about to be beamed into a different world if you move to either the X or the 2210, I am sure. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I mow 8+ acres with an X485 with ease. The X doesn't have the ROPS which I like, as I have too many trees to 'get under' so I just wear a hard hat. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

If you don't have snow to plow, and the ROPS is not a big problem getting under trees, then give some look at the 2210 with a FEL. You will find many things to do with the FEL, and can maintain the drive with the bucket (remember that back-dragging is one of the easiest ways to get a level area, in dirt or in gravel).

 

[BarryinMN]

I use an earlier X - 455 to do these tasks. I run a 6" landscape blade. A box blade is better at relocating material. You might look at a front scoop as well. See ads on www.weekendfreedommachines.org I bought a rear 3pt scoop but sold it as I thought it too light & easily bent. The 455 could load heaping loose gravel where the scoop would un hook & dump the load when hitting a bump /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Garrabo]

I run a landscape rake on my 575, they do work great. One very useful tool for removing any unwanted english ivy beds.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I have a 48" blade rear Cat 0 blade for my 455. Works fairly well, but can seriously limit traction. I have the 54" front blade and it works wellm but you will need HD skid shoes or a replacement wear edge as it will go fast on dirt.

I'd recommend the smaller rear blade and if need be, add some weights to it. You'll be hard pressed to have enough weight/traction to run over or bend a 10" moldboard and a 14" would limit ground clearance.

 

[KB9R]

Have you considered a center mounted blade. The advantage is that it won't dip & gouge like a front or back blade. The disadvantage is that you have to remove the mower deck to use it. I use a front blade and a loader with my X585, but the center blade does the best job of leveling.

Good luck,

Joe in Wisconsin

 

[RedHawkRidge]

I use a landscape rake frequently, but it isn't ideal for working gravel. If you have typical "base" gravel, it is a mix of small rock, sand, and clay. When you move the gravel, the rake tends to move the rock and leave the sand and clay, resulting in areas of mostly rock and other areas of mostly fine mix. If you need to move and spread the gravel, a blade works better IF you can keep it from floating, and if you can maintain traction (no spinning). Overall, however, I think a box blade will do the best job overall.
jim