Rear Impliment WEIGHT??

[Sully2]

While browsing for different info in my B3030 owners manual...I come across the chart for rear impliment weights.

The book says rear impliments SHOULD NOT weigh over 550 pounds.??? And in the case of a rear tiller..no more than 50 inches wide. To me that seems a bit SMALL??

Is that just so much "cover their rump" info..or is it actual FACT? Any ideas guys??

 

[Doc_Bob]

I do not own or use a B3030, but if that is what the manual says, I would belive it.
Bob

 

[Bird]

Is that just so much "cover their rump" info..or is it actual FACT? Any ideas guys??

I would only tell YOU to only do what the manual says, but then if it were ME, I'd want a tiller at least wide enough to cover both rear wheel tracks when centered. In fact, I'd be looking at a 60-62" tiller. As for the weight, if you have an implement or suitcase weights on the front end, then you can handle heavier implements on the back end.

I've mentioned before on TBN that in my opinion Kubota is pretty conservative, but I'm sure not going to tell someone else to do something different than what the manual says.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I use a B2910 which is the model that the B3030 replaced, but is mechanically and physically very similar. Here is my opinion without reviewing the manual.

A 550# implement weight limit recommendation is probalby based on not having any front ballast (not having a loader installed). I know I've had heavier weights on the back and not had any problems, but the loader has never been off the tractor.

As for the tiller, I suspect that they are being very conservative with their recommendation. I have very heavy clay and use a 50" tiller. The tiller is used on both the B2910 and a less powerful NH TC24D. My heavy clay conditions can cause me to slow to a near stop when using the TC24 but the more powerful B2910 can keep churning and moving. Now in the same soil conditions, a 60" tiller would probably cause me grief. In lighter soil, it would be no problem at all to use a 60" (or maybe larger) tiller.

 

[ronjhall]

I have some attachments that push the 550 lbs limit for my B2910. These attachments make the front end light even with FEL on. Core aerator weighs 600+ lbs with weights in place. With FEL removed it can be a little difficult to control turns. I just remove bucket from FEL to give the control needed. The JD rotary cutter does similar things to front end. As stated, adding weights will help solve most of the steering problems.

 

[Sully2]

OK fellas....Thats what I was needing to know. Im thinking about a tiller maybe this spring and everyone says to use one WIDER than the tractor itself...but they all appear to be too heavy ( or at least more than 550 lbs that is).

Looks like I'll have to shop for a narrower one that can slide offset...so Im not running in tilled ground all the time.

Narrow tiller...shallow "bites"...repeat passes to go deep. No problem...its not like a mule and a plow for sure...not much "sweat" involved!!

Appreciate the info

 

[Bird]

Sully, you might want to do a little more "shopping". I used a Bush Hog RTS40 tiller which was just the right width for my B7100 and weighed 366 pounds. When I bought the B2710, I continued using the RTS40 by offsetting it to cover the track on only one side. That's a second choice that works, but the only reason I did it was because I didn't want to spend the money for a new tiller. According to Bush Hog's website, the RTS62-04 only weighs 470 pounds and even the RTS74-04 only weighs 532, so I don't see a problem with getting one wide enough to cover both tracks when it's centered.

I also used a Bush Hog RDTH60 finish mower with the B2710 that weighed 532 pounds. I mowed without the front end loader on the tractor, so yes, when I picked up the mower, it made the front end of the tractor a little light, but not a problem.

 

[john_bud]

Scully2,

The KingKutter gear drive tiller is a good stout unit. It is 60" and 630#. Price is about $1100 on sale. If you load the rear tires with fluid for traction and stability and keep the FEL on, it aught to work fine. The difference in weight and size is minimal.

It's easier to just take a shallower bite than an offset bite. In virgin ground, you will have to double till anyway. First one direction N/S, then the other E/W. If it is badly sod bound, you will probably have to come back in a week or 2 and re-till to compost the grasses and kill off the sprouting seeds.

Your tractor, your choice.

Just a side note. Kubota lists Box Blade max weight for my tractor at 650 or so pounds. But in the documents where they recommend box blades, the heaviest one is over 950#. Sickle bar mower max weight is 1100#, flail is 880 and the rotary is 770. Backhoe is max 990# There is a lot of contradictions and I don't know that all of it is perfect or if it just matches up to the implements they sell. (whew! what a skeptic!)

Merry Christmas!

jb

 

[thcri]

I don't know if I would go with a tiller that is smaller than the width of your tires. My tiller is about 2" wider than my tires and with out the loader on you can tell the front end is light. But not so light that I can not maneuver? The only time your front end is light is when the tiller is out of the ground anyway. You will end up going over most soils a couple of times anyway. Start out light and go a bit deaper each time.


murph

 

[Sully2]

Thanks for the link to Bushhog... It sure seems like that can accomodate me with their light dity 60 inch wide model. My preference is to definately get one WIDER and not have to screw around with the offsetting...

Thanks again fellas!