Rear Light

   / Rear Light #21  
Done. I sent you two pictures; front and rear. Since the pictures were taken, I've straightened that bent spot on the right rear where I backed it under a tree limb./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
 
   / Rear Light #22  
Bird,
There are several wires running under the seat area, one has a plug conector but I did not follow it to see where it went. On the top of the right fender there is a flashing light. Under the fender there are three wires with crimped-on plug connectors, one goes to the flashing light the other two are connected to nothing. Actually there is one on the left side that is not connected to anything either.

When the key is in the run position one of the wires on the right side is hot, so I ran a wire from that back to the switch and then back to the rear light. Thanks for the advice.

Randy
 
   / Rear Light #23  
I don't know what the extra connectors might be then. Possibly actually are just tail light connectors, I suppose. I know neighbors who have implements, such as hay balers that have tail lights, turn signals, etc. so they have connectors for that purpose on the tractors. Just a wild guess, of course.
 
   / Rear Light #24  
James,

I'd debated between using the pole vs. plate SMV mount and talked myself into the pole ($1.00 more /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) thinking it would be more versstile, which it has. I figured I could cut it down if it bounced or vibrated too much. It moves a little for the length of the arm but my light is rubber and weighs very little. Also the SMV mount wedges in quite tight. I haven't found the light movement to be a problem. I have found the light to be very useful. I could see where a heavy metal light may bounce around more but you could shorten the pole.

Another (more costly method) is a company called RAM that makes mount for GPS, fish finders, etc. It uses a method of a ball and split socket that clamps on and off with an oversided tee nut. Something along that line attached to the ROPS would give you the same flexibility.

Others have tried magnetic mounts. If you have a pair of lights you could use the trailer stake pocket method to mount around the ROPS, one forward, one back. That is in the archives somewhere. Let me know if you want me to look it up.

The more ideas the better,
Michael
 
   / Rear Light #25  
Bird,
I bet you are right. I am going to check to see if those other wires are connected into the flashing or turn signals so you could power lights on a towed implement.

Randy
 
   / Rear Light #26  
Andy -- Have you ever posted a pic of all those lights? I'd love to see one. I really try to plow in daylight to avoid the backroad explorers at night...but if Clementine was lit up like a Christmas tree I'd feel much safer.

Pete
 
   / Rear Light #27  
Sounds like a good excuse to fire up the 'bota after dinner/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Check back later tonight.
 
   / Rear Light #29  
New Canopy light setup

Pete,

OK - Here is a collection of shots (just taken!), though I must say the camera does not do a very good job of conveying the full brightness. This one is the original front lights.
 

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   / Rear Light #30  
New Canopy light setup 2

OK, now here is the new lighting - note the slight difference /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif. I could see much farther then the camera picked up.
 

Attachments

  • 37-102663-Night-newheadlightscopy.jpg
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