Rear Remote Hydraulic Attachments / Implements

[MtnViewRanch]

The top link adjusts the pitch(forward-backward) of a cutting edge or rippers on a box blade. Adjusting the pitch greatly affects how the cutting edge-rippers cut the ground. From straight up-down to a 30*-45* angle cutting into the ground. When using a box blade, this can be needed to be done many times in a very short amount of time. A top & tilt set gets you the ability to get the most functionality from about any 3pt grading implement.

No, the 3pt hitch is used to raise and lower implements. As long as you have a 3pt implement attached, yes the top link moves with the hitch with no other input.

Yes the top link can be used to get some additional lift or depth to an implement, but that is not what it's purpose is, or was intended to be for. Many people retract the top link to get the implement up higher than normal for transporting or loading onto a trailer.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

. are not all 3 point hitch top links actuated to be able to raise and lower the implement attached to it?

No toplink, regardless if it is hydraulic or not, has anything to do with lifting/lowering force of the implement. The toplink's job is to provide vertical alignment of the implement relative to the ball ends of the lower links. The lifting force is provided by another cyl/rockshaft that lifts on the lower 3pt arms using lift links. It is one of these links that gets replaced with a cyl for the 'tilt' function of the top-n-tilt.

Edit: Brian beat me to it...and worded a bit better too

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No toplink, regardless if it is hydraulic or not, has anything to do with lifting/lowering force of the implement. The toplink's job is to provide vertical alignment of the implement relative to the ball ends of the lower links. The lifting force is provided by another cyl/rockshaft that lifts on the lower 3pt arms using lift links. It is one of these links that gets replaced with a cyl for the 'tilt' function of the top-n-tilt.

Edit: Brian beat me to it...and worded a bit better too

Thanks, but I'm not sure that you are right about my response. All I can say is that we all try to get things right to help others out. :thumbsup:

 

[Colgate2004]

Okay, let me see if I understand this correctly:

The regular, non-top&tilt top link can lift the implement up off the ground and out of the way for transport when it's not in use, but does not provide any pitch adjustment or down force.

For pitch adjustment (such as pitching a box blade forward/back so the rippers dig deeper/shallower, etc.) a cylinder-actuated top link is required. For angle/tilt of the implement (such as angling a box blade side to side to grade an off-tilt surface) a cylinder-actuated side link is required.

A cylinder-actuated top- and side-link together form a "top & tilt" setup.

Do I have all of that correct? If not please correct me!

Thank you so much for your help, this is really helping me learn!!

 

[bcp]

You do have adjustments with no hydraulics. You just have to stop, get off, and do it by hand for every change.

Bruce

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Okay, let me see if I understand this correctly:

The regular, non-top&tilt top link can lift the implement up off the ground and out of the way for transport when it's not in use, but does not provide any pitch adjustment or down force.

For pitch adjustment (such as pitching a box blade forward/back so the rippers dig deeper/shallower, etc.) a cylinder-actuated top link is required. For angle/tilt of the implement (such as angling a box blade side to side to grade an off-tilt surface) a cylinder-actuated side link is required.

A cylinder-actuated top- and side-link together form a "top & tilt" setup.

Do I have all of that correct? If not please correct me!

Thank you so much for your help, this is really helping me learn!!

You've almost got it all. As Bruce mentioned, all of the same adjustments of a top & tilt are there stock on a just about any tractor except that they are manual adjustments rather than hydraulic. The hydraulic T&T just makes it much easier to do, especially if you want to do it lots.

The one thing that you are wrong on is down force. With the exclusion of a couple of new models in the Deere lineup (if they have ordered it with the option) it is a safe bet to say that none of the tractors in the CUT class have down force on the 3pt hitch. All 3pt hitches rely on gravity (the weight of the implement) to lower and the weight/design of the implement to stay down. For example, a moldboard or chisel plow by design will try to keep pulling themselves deeper. A rear blade needs more weight to cut deeper.

With a box blade, there are still ways to make it work without the hyd top link, you just have to get off and adjust things much more often. Drop the rippers to loosen things up, then raise them back up to use the blade portion. With having a hyd toplink, I set my rippers just flush with the blade so that I can scrape smooth but if I need the rippers, I fully retract the top link to roll the box blade forward and that allows the rippers to be several inches deeper than the blade.

 

[Colgate2004]

Thank you so much. That is exactly the info I needed. I understand now!

Now, for a top & tilt setup, is it correct that I would need two rear remote valves (a total of four hoses), one for the top and one for the side?

Thank you!

 

[C4Ranch]

Yep that's right. Two cylinders 4 hoses.

I have 3 remotes si FW my box Blade has hydraulic rippers and I use the 3rd with my tree puller.

You can step into he TNT and go with the top link first. That is the most used IMO.

Now..... Get ready for more edumication.... Depending on your tractor you will have different valve options. D/A double acting - basically returns to center
Float - allows u to basically put the valve in neutral allowing the cylinder to freely move in and out. Which is nice on side link with boxblade or top link with bushhog

Bottom line, like a tractor, remotes help u get the job done faster and easier.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Now..... Get ready for more edumication.... Depending on your tractor you will have different valve options. D/A double acting - basically returns to center
Float - allows u to basically put the valve in neutral allowing the cylinder to freely move in and out. Which is nice on side link with boxblade or top link with bushhog

And the third option of valve with detent to allow it to stay in the "ON" position.

1 of my 4 is like this where I plug in my backhoe and woodsplitter. I use this rather than a dedicated power beyond loop. Does the same function, just makes connections much easier.

 

[Foodplot]

In addition to what others have said:
Some rotary cutters, usually larger ones, are pull-behind and you adjust the height with a hydraulic cylinder. These may require a single-acting valve setup (power up, gravity down). If you are pulling a seed drill, most adjust in height with hydraulics. Pull-type discs (wheel discs) may use a hydraulic cylinder to raise them for transport. Tree shears require hydraulics.