Rear Remote Mounting Opinions

   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions #31  
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions #32  
What about in sort of the same location, turning the valve 90* and lay it down, have the levers move forward-backwards and using the other lever mount holes on the end. This would be getting it closer to the OEM location-positioning, just higher. The actual valves would be behind the control levers that would move in a forward-backward motion. :confused3:
 
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions #33  
So, switch the control levers 90 degrees and lay it down with the work ports facing straight up and the levers toward the front?
Could work. I might suggest taking the levers off and seeing how the valve fits under the plastic there.

Aaron Z
 
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions
  • Thread Starter
#34  
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions
  • Thread Starter
#35  
So, switch the control levers 90 degrees and lay it down with the work ports facing straight up and the levers toward the front?
Could work. I might suggest taking the levers off and seeing how the valve fits under the plastic there.

Aaron Z

That is my next course and what I was trying to convey in post #30.

ac
 
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions #36  
I've looked at that thread a million times, I've even contacted Lauren. Unfortunately he had his dealer install the remotes at the same time as his cab so a lot of it is completely off the reservation with regards to my project.
Ok.
I think I found the parts diagram for the L39 valveblock that puts the valves in the plastic. Try going to Kubota Tractor Corporation - Parts List and putting in model number L3995.
My guess is that the "old" way was to integrate them into the plastic and the "new" way is to put them on the ROPS. Being as it is an "option" rather than a "component" they probably don't list the old version any more.


Aaron Z
 
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I did some more mock up. No way in heck the valves are fitting where Kubota put the handles on the fancy factory configuration. The 4 valves are almost 11" wide and the space is only ~9". In fact, any installation that has the valve body in that orientation (so the valves are parallel to the rear axle) just won't work due to the width.

Here are some more pics of the valves near the operator controls. This is very comfortable to use facing forward or backwards actually. I'm just a bit scared of running the 11 (yes, ELEVEN) hoses.





I did come up with another spot that works nicely, but again I'm not sure how the house routing would work.







Then I started thinking that if I could figure out a firm spot for the QDs maybe my hose routing fears would calm down. Here are some ideas:







...and one that I HATE:



I'm still not sure where this leaves me. LOL

ac
 
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions #38  
see if you have an old garden hose laying around, that will fit some what tight into QD's, pickup a couple barb fittings (plastic cheap stuff) at local hardware store. there should be no need for pipe clamps.

the garden hose and barb fittings just a way to route the hoses and see how things could possibly turn out. at moment ya just kinda flapping ya jaws not get any were.

ya need to remember that hydrualic hoses, has a min bend radius. you just can't grab a hold of them and bend them into a extreme sharp 90, if ya do they will kink. garden hose about nearest thing i can think of.

well i guess radiator hose. but more likely more expensive that garden hose at this time of year. and radiator hose more like harder to find at some local shop on hand.

TIP: if barb fittings have wrong thread style on them. get your belt sander out, or dremel with a sanding drum, or drill with sanding drum on it. and just nock the threads down. the plastic threads shouldn't do any sort of harm to the metal threads of valves or QD's or like. if ya do, do the sanding, a quick dunk in some water should get all the dust off of them.

TIP: i have taken sch 40 pipe, and used a "belt sander" and sanded down the outside of the pipe before, vs going with barb fittings and messing with them. the hose i on hand fight barely snug on the bare pipe. so it was kinda of a no brainier there. and i really didn't care how perfect the outside of the pipe was. i tried to get a nice round outside, but there was a lot of flat spots. the sch40 pipe wiggled in without much force and a couple turns. and i called it good enough to plan my routing of the hoses.

============
you already have your valve manifold, so it is a bit to late to return it for either a 3 valve manifold block with an extra valve by itself or a 2 and 2 manifold valve blocks. though you might be able to split the valve manifold block up, buying a couple end plates, and some what is it 3 or 4 bolts that hold all the sections together.

you do not have to have all 8 QD's right next to each other in a single block....
it looks like your ROPS does not fold. so run some hoses up -> across -> down so you have 4 QD's on each side of the ROPS.

pull the backhoe off... and make a templet out of some cardboard of any sort of covers that might be on backhoe. and just duct tape them on. if need be. if you want to see difference between with backhoe on/off. vs actually have 3pt hitch with a TNT setup.

=============
your not the first nor will you be the last to get tangled up with location. running hoses / pipes can be an art at times. more so when you have multi hoses / pipes all running in a common area. when ya get into backyard liner ponds for koi/goldfish and multi DIY filters, dealing with 30 plus pipes/hoses/wires and cram it all into a small tight location. it gets a bit hair teasing at times. take your time and plan things out. expect a couple redo's on hoses and/or fittings on end of hoses or valve block or QD's. that's just part of customizing, "trail and error".

a mock up with garden hose and like costs some, but hyd hoses and specialized fittings and equipment to make hyd hoses is even more costly. if ya plan things right, you might be able to pull the garden hoses off, and then take to a local shop. were they can just lay down each garden hose for length, and voom, bam! instant hyd hoses. without a bunch of re-measuring or guessing.
 
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions #39  
there are different "pipe protectors" out there, if you expect some hoses to go across a sharp edge. "pex piping" for example has some long springs that fit over the pipe, or a metal strap that fits over pipe, to allow for a sharper bend without kinking hose. granted i don't suggest relying on these techniques. and try to avoid it as much as possible. but... it is something, beats having a pipe/hose rub itself down to point it cuts all the way into the pipe/hose and you get a leak.

also remember these hyd hoses will see high shock pressure as well as high vacuum pressures. as ya go about 3pt hitch normal stuff of running implements. and in that the hoses will want to bounce around some and move a little bit. the less amount the hoses the need to bend, the better for long term life of the hyd hoses.
 
   / Rear Remote Mounting Opinions
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Ryan,

Thanks for the tips. Brian has told me that 3/8" air hose is a perfect simulator for the hydraulic hoses. I plan to grab a disposable spool.

ac
 

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