Rear Remotes + 3rd Function Option

[SNKETR]

Looking for some confirmation.

I’m new to tractor hydraulics so i’ve been spending my time learning everything I can to make the right decision.
I have a 4720H. I’m looking to add a 3rd function for a grapple. I’d also like to run rear remotes for top/tilt, but i’m also thinking about getting an offset flail mower which would require an additional two valves.
I think I have 4 options to accomplish this. They’re listed in order of cost.

1. Summit Hydraulic 4 spool kit. I’d run one spool to the front for the grapple, and could get by with disconnecting the tilt if/when i want to run an offset flail mower.
2. Branson rear manual remote, Summit Hydraulics 3 spool kit running one to the front for the grapple. This would allocate everything with its own valve. This is assuming i can run the Branson rear manual remotes and the Summit electric 3 spool kit in series. Is there any reason that wouldn’t work?
3. Summit hydraulics 4 spool kit and Summit/WR Long 3rd function kit. This would allocate everything with its own valve.
4. Branson rear manual remote, Summit/WR Long 3rd function, and Summit 2 spool kit. accomplishes the same thing as option 2 just seems more complicated and unnecessary.

Option 1 would be cheapest at probably 60% the cost of the next cheapest option. Options 2 or 3 seems like the most efficient and functional route. I’d appreciate any input, recommendations, and/or corrections from those of y’all with more experience.

I've also heard the electronic spool valves are a little touchy and might require flow control.

 

[Torvy]

Another option...

Unless you think you will really need the top and tilt while using your flail, just need 2 sets. Swapping is easy and cheap.

I have a ditch mower flail and don't see what I would use top and tilt for with it. Already tilts -50 to +90 degrees.

 

[SNKETR]

I don't see myself using top/tilt with a flail mower. But i'd assume I still need to raise/lower the 3pt? That would require swapping out the top link for a manual one? I don't have a flail mower so please correct me if my thinking is wrong.

 

[Torvy]

The arms do the lifting. I'm not sure, but I think a hydraulic top link would work fine without the hydraulics attached (as long as it is set to the right length first). I don't have hyd.TnT yet.

Worst case, you already should have the original top link, just leave the one end attached to your flail and hook it up on the tractor end when swapping.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When you disconnect a hydraulic cylinder at the quick couplers, that cylinder is locked in place.

You just need to be sure that the hoses are tied up and out of the way.

Not only do the electric valves typically need some flow control, but these electric valves are known to have internal leakage and do not hold cylinders in place very well.

They are not the ideal set of controls for top & tilt cylinders.

Good luck with your research and final decision.

 

[SNKETR]

When you disconnect a hydraulic cylinder at the quick couplers, that cylinder is locked in place.

Thanks Brian. I didn't know that. Right now i'm leaning towards Option 2, and just starting with the Branson factory kit. Grading my community 1 mile long private driveway is the most frequent use for the tractor right now.

 

[WinterDeere]

That's what I do. I have only 3 channels on my machine, so when I need the 3rd to angle my loader-mounted snow plow left/right, I just unplug my hydraulic top link. I set it where I want it before unplugging, and then it holds just fine for at least the several days I might have the snowplow mounted. My hoses are set up such that I can just wrap the unused hose ends around the top link cylinder and tuck then under the opposite cylinder port, YMMV. The hoses that route the 3rd function (rear) up to the loader are Deere OEM, and just sit under my seat when not in use.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks Brian. I didn't know that. Right now i'm leaning towards Option 2, and just starting with the Branson factory kit. Grading my community 1 mile long private driveway is the most frequent use for the tractor right now.

Maybe get both of the factory rear remotes and then go with some diverters if you decide that you need more sets of couplers.
I have one tractor with one factory rear remote with a triple diverter and my larger tractor has 3 factory rear remotes with a double diverter.

 

[LouNY]

One thing to think about many offset flail mowers will work better with a float position on at least one valve. Isee that Summit offers a float spool option on their monoblock valve bodies. I'd be tempted to go with a 4 port valve with at least one having the float spool and detent

 

[WinterDeere]

Thought the tractor was already owned? If configuring to buy, always get more remotes than you need. Buyer’s remorse over too few remotes is common here.