Rear Remotes for a front grapple?

   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #1  

2Buckslake

Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Messages
35
Location
Fults IL.
Tractor
2006 New Holland TC45DA W/16LA Loader
I have a new grapple on order and would like to get the hydraulics figured out before I install it, so I have some questions. I have an 06 TC45DA NH tractor with one set of rear factory remotes. Has anyone tried to remove the original fittings from the valve body that the original steel lines attach to and replace with some kind of tee type fitting, so that I can run lines up to the front, in addition to hooking back up the original steel remote lines to the rear as they are now? I think that the fittings are a JIC type with O-ring that go into the valve body now. I have even thought about going the electric over hydraulic setup hooked into the curl circuit, but its hard to justify the added cost, since I already have the rear remotes. Those hoses would be really long to just hook into the rear remotes as they are now, plus they would have to be routed just right so that the 3 pt. wouldn't hit them if it was raised and lowered. Anyone have pics with hoses of a TC45DA with hoses hooked to the rear remotes running up front? I also have seen the WR Long electric valve setup, but its a bit pricey. If I go the elec/hyd setup, what kind of dirverter valve would I need? I saw where one of the members put a push button switch in the existing NH joystick, and that might be a good way also. Ideas?
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #2  
Good luck with this project. I'm curious to see the solution to teeing the steel lines. For example, if you install a steel tee to the valve body, isn't the existing steel lines going to then be too long???

I like this solution better than plugging into the rear remotes. The only conflict will be that you can't have a front attachment plugged in and use the rear remotes at the same time. You have no way to control the divertion of fluid/pressure.

I agree you can save a lot of money this way. Good luck and post pics once you figure it out!!!
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #3  
The only line you can Tee is the return...

Does the valve that controls the remote have a Power Beyond port?

A JIC fitting is a flare...if it has an o-ring it is SAE/ORB...
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
The only line you can Tee is the return...

Does the valve that controls the remote have a Power Beyond port?

A JIC fitting is a flare...if it has an o-ring it is SAE/ORB...

I'm not sure if the valve that controls the remotes has a power beyond port. I may be mistaken about the terminology as to the fittings, but I think they're O-ring. These two lines go directly to the remotes. I don't see how teeing them would be any different than hooking in to the remotes. What would be the difference if I took off those two lines, turned the fittings around to face forward, and hooked up the hoses for the grapple to them? I'm just talking about teeing them off those two fittings. Now, I understand if I did that I couldn't use the rear remotes and the lines going to the front at the same time, I'm just wanting to cut down on hose length, and not have them be in the way of the 3pt. arms.
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #5  
Pine misunderstood your intent. You can tee those lines without problem. If you can find the appropriate fittings.

My Brother's Kubota uses rubber hydraulic hoses to run from the valve to his rear remotes. In his case it's easy to cut and tee the hoses. In your case it's more difficult because of the steel lines.

Something you might check into. There may be a way to cut the steel lines and put a tee in the middle of them somewhere?? Just brainstorming here, not sure it's possible.
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #6  
If you have remote valve installed, then just plug in the grapple to the work ports and control the grapple with the remote lever.

I don't understand all the confusion.

You don't have to cut any lines.

This should be your flow path. Pump to FEL, to remote, to 3pt, to tank.

All valves should be in series, as fluid is flowing all the time.

Two long hoses is the cheapest way to go.

You could do the selector/diverter valve off the curl circuit.

You could also install the 3rd function after the FEL for grapple control.
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #7  
JJ's right and then just unplug them if you want to use something other than the grapple
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #8  
I think his concern is the routing of the hoses plugged into his work ports to clear the 3pt going forward.

To stay with his question JJ, there isn't any problem with splicing T's into the lines running from his rear remote valve to the rear work plugs and running a pair of lines to a second location is there??
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #9  
I also have a single set of rear remotes like your setup. I just plug my hoses that run to the front of the tractor in when I have my grapple hooked up and utilize the dedicated valve/lever for the rear remote to operate the grapple. lift and curl functions remain the same as on the FEL stick. Similar to what JJ stated.
 
   / Rear Remotes for a front grapple? #10  
I have a new grapple on order and would like to get the hydraulics figured out before I install it, so I have some questions. I have an 06 TC45DA NH tractor with one set of rear factory remotes. Has anyone tried to remove the original fittings from the valve body that the original steel lines attach to and replace with some kind of tee type fitting, so that I can run lines up to the front, in addition to hooking back up the original steel remote lines to the rear as they are now? I think that the fittings are a JIC type with O-ring that go into the valve body now. I have even thought about going the electric over hydraulic setup hooked into the curl circuit, but its hard to justify the added cost, since I already have the rear remotes. Those hoses would be really long to just hook into the rear remotes as they are now, plus they would have to be routed just right so that the 3 pt. wouldn't hit them if it was raised and lowered. Anyone have pics with hoses of a TC45DA with hoses hooked to the rear remotes running up front? I also have seen the WR Long electric valve setup, but its a bit pricey. If I go the elec/hyd setup, what kind of dirverter valve would I need? I saw where one of the members put a push button switch in the existing NH joystick, and that might be a good way also. Ideas?

This was what was throwing me...when the OP said "steel lines" I am thinking pressure and return (servicing the valve)...you can't tee the pressure line going into the valve...
...Now "teeing" the working ports of the valve (which I assume the QD's are attached to) should be OK with an additional set of QD's (on the extension) as long as only one set was being used at a time...

If there is room...my suggestion is to run new hard lines forward with QD's on both ends...when the grapple is needed use two short "jumper" hoses to connect the existing remotes to the (rear) Qd's on the new hard lines...or just use hoses...not as clean looking as hard lines though...
 

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