Rear remotes on my ck27

[pickeringchris]

So my ck27 came with these rear remotes.
I have been looking at a hydraulic top link here:http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8317901/Welded/Category-1-Hydraulic-Top-Link
at princess auto (Canada's equivalent to Harbour Freight)

I assume I need the appropriate sized hoses but have no idea what type of quick connects I need. There is nothing in the manual and I know there are many different kinds.

Any words of wisdom are greatly appreciated.

 

[k0ua]

Chris if it were my project I would at least get a quote from this guy first to make sure you are getting the length and size you need for your particular tractor:

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

He is a member here, and a lot of the fellas have used his services.
I bet he could fix you up with a complete kit.

his handle is MtnViewRanch


James K0UA

 

[pickeringchris]

Thanks James. I'm giving you the award for the most helpful and patient guy considering you answer all my dumb questions. Lol

By the looks of that website, he offers turn key solutions. No farting around with fittings and hoses. Looks like he can put together a complete package. That's exactly what I need.

 

[DK35vince]

Personally I recommend a top link or side link with a check valve. (The Princess Auto top link has the check valve feature)
I tryed a regular top link without the double piloted check valve and it would move around to much (extend/compress) when put under a heavy load with a boxblade. Making it much more difficult to grade with.
I replaced it with a check valve top link and it works SO much better. Never leaks down and never moves from where you set it even under heavy load.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Personally I recommend a top link or side link with a check valve. (The Princess Auto top link has the check valve feature)
I tryed a regular top link without the double piloted check valve and it would move around to much (extend/compress) when put under a heavy load with a boxblade. Making it much more difficult to grade with.
I replaced it with a check valve top link and it works SO much better. Never leaks down and never moves from where you set it even under heavy load.

If your top link compressed under a load, did it then return to where it was when the load was gone or did it stay compressed? Just want to know exactly what was happening if you don't mind.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So my ck27 came with these rear remotes.
I have been looking at a hydraulic top link here:Category 1 Hydraulic Top Link | Princess Auto
at princess auto (Canada's equivalent to Harbour Freight)

I assume I need the appropriate sized hoses but have no idea what type of quick connects I need. There is nothing in the manual and I know there are many different kinds.

Any words of wisdom are greatly appreciated.

If you decide to get the top link from your local supplier, 36" long hoses work pretty good. You need 1/2" male AG quick disconnect ends and it is nice to have a hydraulic flow restrictor to make those fine adjustments that much easier to make. A good working length for your tractor is 20"-30".

 

[DK35vince]

If your top link compressed under a load, did it then return to where it was when the load was gone or did it stay compressed? Just want to know exactly what was happening if you don't mind.

When the boxblade would start building up with material the top link would compress a 1/2" to and inch (doesn't sound like much but it made a big differance in the boxblade angle of attack) this would make the cutting enge on the boxblade dive and become to agressive of a cut and would constantly need readjusted depending on load. When to load was reduced the top link would goe back to its original position.
Made it difficult to hold a nice grade.
My top link with the check valves stay where I put them no matter the load.

 

[pickeringchris]

Thanks guys. Ya i wondered why some have checks and some don't. Is there any down side to having a built in check valve?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When the boxblade would start building up with material the top link would compress a 1/2" to and inch (doesn't sound like much but it made a big differance in the boxblade angle of attack) this would make the cutting enge on the boxblade dive and become to agressive of a cut and would constantly need readjusted depending on load. When to load was reduced the top link would goe back to its original position.
Made it difficult to hold a nice grade.
My top link with the check valves stay where I put them no matter the load.

Thanks for responding.
I'm sure that the DPOCV top link works great for you. It solved your problem. But for those circumstances to occur, either there was air in the system or most likely your hoses were flexing-bulging. What size hoses do you or did you have? Not that it really matters, your current set up works good for you.

 

[DK35vince]

I have 1/4" hoses to my top link