Mowing Rear Rotary Mower for JD 4410
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Alien
Elite Member
The Caroni seems poular. The only complaint I know of is slight seepage at the gearbox breather. Being in Aussie I bought another brand. (Hayes) They are great mowers and do a real tidy job.
Our local Council will not be buying any more Rotary mowers. They will all be Flail from now on.
Our local Council will not be buying any more Rotary mowers. They will all be Flail from now on.
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
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I'm thinking that everyone who has bent the rear of their mower backing into something has loaded rear tires.
I have both a flail mower and a rough cut. I would never use my flail mower in the rough stuff. The flails wouldn't last.
Rough cut is a 5' John Deere that was given to me in virtually new condition and the 5' Lawn Genie I bought for $200. I basically use the Lawn Genie to clean up leaves.
For what you are doing I would buy a 6' machine. The first few times might be tough on you and the tractor but once everything that sticks out of the ground is chewed off you should have an easy go of it.
I have both a flail mower and a rough cut. I would never use my flail mower in the rough stuff. The flails wouldn't last.
Rough cut is a 5' John Deere that was given to me in virtually new condition and the 5' Lawn Genie I bought for $200. I basically use the Lawn Genie to clean up leaves.
For what you are doing I would buy a 6' machine. The first few times might be tough on you and the tractor but once everything that sticks out of the ground is chewed off you should have an easy go of it.
JKR
Silver Member
I use a 5 foot JD rotary cutter and a 6 foot JD finish mower. No problem with My 3033R
jimmysisson
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Still think it will take forever. I have 43 engine hp and gear drive and the 88" flail I have to go pretty slow to get a good cut. Of course mine's a fine-cut flail (Alamo/Mott SHD88) but still. Maybe a rough cut flail would give more speed? As it is in thick grass (like June grass around here) I'm in low range (of 3) 2nd gear. Slow. Jim
JKR
Silver Member
Look at John Deere spec sheet. I think your tractor don't have enough PTO power to operate a flail mower. Look into a rotary finish mower instead.
Flail mower:
John Deere Flail Mowers Cutters & Shredders John Deere.com
Finish mower:
John Deere Grooming Mowers Mowing Equipment JohnDeere.com
Flail mower:
John Deere Flail Mowers Cutters & Shredders John Deere.com
Finish mower:
John Deere Grooming Mowers Mowing Equipment JohnDeere.com
The 28.5 PTO horsepower, per the literature on most of the flails I have looked at, is more than enough for a 5' flail and likely adequate for a 6, flail unless you are mowing really deep grass or thick brush, neither of which I need to do.
What makes you think it wouldn't be adequate?
What makes you think it wouldn't be adequate?
RSKY
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Several threads going on about this.
The key word to me is that the tractor is a hydro. That means you can ease off the pedal to keep the rpms up when you get in tougher stuff. Engine rpms stay up as does the blade rpms. No bogging down. I would definitely go with the 6' but would not spend the money on a heavy duty one. With 35-hp a light or medium duty mower will be all you need. And with a six footer you will be cutting a wider path at a slower speed and will have a more comfortable ride on your tractor. We have to mow one patch of about 20 acres CRP land that has to be disked every other year and it gets rougher each year. It will shake your teeth out. A wider mower and slower speeds is the way to go.
I have no experience with flail mowers. I don't know how well they hold up or how much debris, limbs, saplings, roots, etc. you will be mowing up. I do know how a well taken care of rotary mower will last. One of the mowers we use yearly is a 6' Ford that is 40 years old. It has been welded, chained, bolted, and screwed back together so many times we have lost count. Finally filled the gearbox with two or three tubes of grease to stop a leaking bottom seal. Leak was caused by a nephew mowing up a couple hundred feet of electric fence wire which wrapped around the shaft............ OK, go back and strike out the words "well taken care of". The mower has been thru he11 and still works.
RSKY
The key word to me is that the tractor is a hydro. That means you can ease off the pedal to keep the rpms up when you get in tougher stuff. Engine rpms stay up as does the blade rpms. No bogging down. I would definitely go with the 6' but would not spend the money on a heavy duty one. With 35-hp a light or medium duty mower will be all you need. And with a six footer you will be cutting a wider path at a slower speed and will have a more comfortable ride on your tractor. We have to mow one patch of about 20 acres CRP land that has to be disked every other year and it gets rougher each year. It will shake your teeth out. A wider mower and slower speeds is the way to go.
I have no experience with flail mowers. I don't know how well they hold up or how much debris, limbs, saplings, roots, etc. you will be mowing up. I do know how a well taken care of rotary mower will last. One of the mowers we use yearly is a 6' Ford that is 40 years old. It has been welded, chained, bolted, and screwed back together so many times we have lost count. Finally filled the gearbox with two or three tubes of grease to stop a leaking bottom seal. Leak was caused by a nephew mowing up a couple hundred feet of electric fence wire which wrapped around the shaft............ OK, go back and strike out the words "well taken care of". The mower has been thru he11 and still works.
RSKY
Here are some photos. Looks used but serviceable. i am going to inspect it this week.
Any thoughts?
