rear weight

   / rear weight #21  
Okay Timber and scott_vt ... any thoughts on how to get 1,000 - 1,200 pounds of ballast using something similar to the barrel full of concrete idea? I like the idea but could use something heavier.
 
   / rear weight #22  
Zoombah said:
Okay Timber and scott_vt ... any thoughts on how to get 1,000 - 1,200 pounds of ballast using something similar to the barrel full of concrete idea? I like the idea but could use something heavier.


Zoombah ,

I used a 55 gallon barrel , which I believe calculates to about 7.5 cubic feet , and concrete weighs approx 150 lbs per Cub Foot. So that is around 1125 lbs.

I measured the height that the Drawbar needed to be at and cut holes in the side of the barrel, slid the Drawbar through. Then made uprights ( for the Top Link ) which I welded to the Drawbar. Called the Local Concrete Company, and asked If I dropped off the Barrel would they fill it, let it set for a couple of days to cure. And what would the cost be. Their response was sure not a problem, and NO CHARGE.

They used to be on the out skirts of town and would dump all the over mix after a truck returned from a job out in the back area to build up and level an area. Now the town has grown up around them and it is perfectly level in back, they still dump the overrun but after it builds up, they have to use their loader to scoop up the waste and haul it off site. So they said it may take a few days until we have an overrun, but we will call. And since someone has paid for it already, you are taking the waste off our hands, so FREE.

So check out your local concrete yard, maybe you can get the same deal.


If you do this, and pick up the Filled Barrel. When you get it home, please be reaLLLLLy careful when you use your light in the @$$end Loader to unload the barrel from the Truck or Trailer. Talk about pucker factor when you lift the barrel, go to set it down and it wants to lay on its side, so someone tries to push the barrel to keep it upright as you are setting it down. That extra little weight of them pushing on the barrel, just lifts the rear end clean off the ground.:eek:
 
   / rear weight #24  
I thought I might make a barrel weight for the 3PH but haven't yet. I tend to use my HD 6 ft box blade (1300 lbs) as a counter weight. I also have all the wheel weights Kubota authorizes on the rear wheels. Still, with pallet forks or FEL bucket I can raise the rear wheels into the air. This acts as a safety device. The rear wheels going into the air tells me when I try to lift too much. The box doesn't really stick out too much since I have TNT and rotate the box up close to the tractor so I don't catch it on the ground when going nose high. I also have a 6 ft HD brush hog that makes great ballast but it does interfere with close in manuvering considerably. Pat
 
   / rear weight #25  
I just installed my new FEL, and was playing around with it, and took the garbage down my concrete driveway today that weighed less than 50lb, and got a good scare when I touched the brakes to get a set of rear tires howling and skidding! I kept it upright, and faired out ok, but darn near filled my shorts! :eek:
 
   / rear weight #26  
Just a different approach, I got a used bridge bearing pad off a job. It fits tight to the tractor and weighs over 600#. And it was free. On my 4310 it works good with the bucket or forks. And isn't hard on my lawn. If I had to do it again I would use concrete, I like kwm's idea, only bigger for my tractor.
 

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   / rear weight #27  
Well, I got my rear ballast weight in progress. I used a CAT 1 drawbar and fabbed a frame to my top link to be placed in an approx. 55 gallon plastic drum. Just yesterday I partially filled the drum with nine 80lb bags of Quickcrete 5000, which is a structural high strength concrete. Now I'm actually listening to it cure....Yes it is making little noises.:confused:

720lb of concrete, about 35lb of steel, plus water if that count to get 2-3" above the frame for the top link. I figure I'll add sand the rest of the way for more weight if needed.
 

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   / rear weight #28  
Camo said:
720lb of concrete, about 35lb of steel, plus water if that count to get 2-3" above the frame for the top link. I figure I'll add sand the rest of the way for more weight if needed.


Whats the 3pt on your B5200 rated for as far as implement weight?
 
   / rear weight #29  
dvan1966 said:
Whats the 3pt on your B5200 rated for as far as implement weight?
:eek: Well we have been having this issue with me finding my owners manual, so I've been winging it on this weight........Well JUST before I got online here, I found it......My max weight on the 3 point lower arms is..........400lb!:mad: :( :mad: :eek: . Now my wife is having a blast giving me jabs about our nice new useless ballast weight.......

So what would a well built 800lb ballast be worth if I was to sell it? I'd like to advertise it locally and get it out of here, as I get madder at myself everytime I look at it!!!! Think $200 is a fair price?
 
   / rear weight #30  
wow 400? I'm not at ALL familiar with Kubota sizes. but it seems like it should handle more.
Look at Timbers setup 800 lbs and the size tractor he is using. I would assume that yours is a lot smaller??
Again I am completely unfamiliar with this..
I'm hoping maybe your wrong on the amount rather than wrong for making it. No possibility to take the top off it and reduce it?
Nice job tho if that helps..
 

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