MicroPilot
Veteran Member
Could get you arrested if standing on a street corner.....or DEAD if used while talking to your wife/girlfriend.
rear wheel on bush hog
- Thread starter bear
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Freds
Veteran Member
Why would BH be backhoe when backhoe is one word? As in TLB....
It took me a while to figure out what people were referring to when typing TLB until I read this site's homepage and saw it spelled out.
...or should it be TLB H? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Yes, I was only partly joking, have blue, when I mentioned four wheels for a RC (not to be confused with radio control). I used to take my RFM across the creek and mow an area that I had brush hogged a few times and was looking like a lawn. I don't plan on doing the same with my lawn tractor, so it would be nice to slap a set of wheels on the ... you know what... and do away with all the adjusting to cut close and not scalp.
It took me a while to figure out what people were referring to when typing TLB until I read this site's homepage and saw it spelled out.
...or should it be TLB H? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Yes, I was only partly joking, have blue, when I mentioned four wheels for a RC (not to be confused with radio control). I used to take my RFM across the creek and mow an area that I had brush hogged a few times and was looking like a lawn. I don't plan on doing the same with my lawn tractor, so it would be nice to slap a set of wheels on the ... you know what... and do away with all the adjusting to cut close and not scalp.
For all of you that replyed...thank you very much. What's great about this site is that one little question can bring about so much coversation. As far as the wheel goes, I think I'll have is just barely touch the ground. Sounds like a good compromise...doesn't it?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
beenthere
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Not to me, but you do as you wish. I won't mind a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
AndyMA
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For the mower to be carried properly and function correctly the rear wheel needs to carry all the weight with some slack in the top link. What do you think you are gaining by setting it up wrong?
Andy
Andy
OkieG
Veteran Member
Freds
Veteran Member
That diagram is how I used to have the toplink adjusted on my KK. It cut OK, but the travel allowed it to bottom out a lot and the runners would dig into the turf. Something that either bothers a person or doesn't. Maybe a lot more playing around with the height adjustment, the toplink and the rear wheel would have prevented that, or maybe adding check chains, which don't allow for any float downward.
Right now I have compromised somewhat and have the rear wheel is touching the ground supporting a little weight (don't know how it could support all the weight, not if it's hooked up to the lower lift arms), but the toplink is tight, supporting a good deal of the rearward weight of the brush hog. The cut is a little high when I hit a raised bump because I have no float for the bh to travel down, but I'm not leaving runner tracks or scalping either, which is what I'm after. I cut my field rather low for walking paths.
Not to beat a dead or dieing horse, but I still think the 3 pt is strong enough to support the weight by itself. It does in a box blade doesn't it?
Right now I have compromised somewhat and have the rear wheel is touching the ground supporting a little weight (don't know how it could support all the weight, not if it's hooked up to the lower lift arms), but the toplink is tight, supporting a good deal of the rearward weight of the brush hog. The cut is a little high when I hit a raised bump because I have no float for the bh to travel down, but I'm not leaving runner tracks or scalping either, which is what I'm after. I cut my field rather low for walking paths.
Not to beat a dead or dieing horse, but I still think the 3 pt is strong enough to support the weight by itself. It does in a box blade doesn't it?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Not to beat a dead or dieing horse, but I still think the 3 pt is strong enough to support the weight by itself. It does in a box blade doesn't it? )</font>
I would say that the 3pt IS able to support the weight on it's own, but that is not the design/purpose of the mower. Most of the time I find the mistake that's being made is the height of the wheel on the rear. There are adjustments and I often see that people have the rear too low, the wheel locked into the lowest hole. The rear of the mower should be slightly higher than the front, with the mower supported in the rear by the wheel being mostly on the ground. My mower has a slot at the top link hookup to allow for the contour movement. My PTO shaft never hits the deck and I can set my position control to keep the runners from digging in, getting a nice even cut. Brush mowers can weigh a lot more than box blades, and if it is being supported solely with the 3pt, but at times the wheel hits, I think there is a possibility that one or both of the arms could be damaged. I just prefer running it the way it's designed to be run: The rear wheel on the ground, front end slightly lower. John
I would say that the 3pt IS able to support the weight on it's own, but that is not the design/purpose of the mower. Most of the time I find the mistake that's being made is the height of the wheel on the rear. There are adjustments and I often see that people have the rear too low, the wheel locked into the lowest hole. The rear of the mower should be slightly higher than the front, with the mower supported in the rear by the wheel being mostly on the ground. My mower has a slot at the top link hookup to allow for the contour movement. My PTO shaft never hits the deck and I can set my position control to keep the runners from digging in, getting a nice even cut. Brush mowers can weigh a lot more than box blades, and if it is being supported solely with the 3pt, but at times the wheel hits, I think there is a possibility that one or both of the arms could be damaged. I just prefer running it the way it's designed to be run: The rear wheel on the ground, front end slightly lower. John
Freds
Veteran Member
After reading the manual on my G2160, I saw where the deck on that is supposed to be higher in the back than the front. The deck floats, but there is an adjustment. My old RFM came set up from the dealer with the spacers all evenly positioned. Kind of makes me wonder now if they should have been or the deck is made with the rear being higher already built in. I know it didn't take much to bog it down and slow my cutting time.
RoyJackson
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"My old RFM came set up from the dealer with the spacers all evenly positioned. Kind of makes me wonder now if they should have been or the deck is made with the rear being higher already built in."
Rear Finishing Mowers should be level. The rotary cutters should be a bit higher aft then forward.
Rear Finishing Mowers should be level. The rotary cutters should be a bit higher aft then forward.
