rear wheel on bush hog

   / rear wheel on bush hog #71  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( blue,
If you are having that much trouble setting it up right, I would be willing to bet that the pins on the mower are mounted to high from the deck. When the front of the mower is lifted into mowing position, the lift arms should be close to level or at least not at a very great angle. )</font>


I can certainly see how that would affect things.

Thanks Jerry! I'll check it out!
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #72  
Without getting into a bunch of quotes, the more I read the last several posts about not using a rear wheel, setting it last so it is just touching the ground and what is it for anyway, the more my "Walmart" dealer's comment that the rear wheel is just there to prevent the chopper from driving itself into ground or scalping seems to ring true.
Interesting thread.

Like I said, I have my toplink set taught and supporting weight without any float, so I know I will have slightly higher spots in my cut because of this. What about hydraulic toplinks? Is there a rating to the weight they can support and how much *torquing on* they can handle? If I had a hydraulic toplink I think I would have the rear wheel supporting much more weight than I do now (which is practically nothing) and set the cutter up so there is some float to it.
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #73  
Have you ever watched your RC while someone else drives the tractor? I did and it was not pretty. The deck lifting up in the back and then slamming down everytime the tractor hit a bump. Seemed like it was really beating up the 3PT and Tractor too. After adjusting so the wheel was ON THE GROUND with slack in the top link, everything ran much smoother. Even the fella that was driving the tractor said it was a better ride!
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #74  
Fred, it doesn't matter what anyone else says to do. If you like the weight off the tail wheel, then so be it.

I know people that bush hog without a tail wheel, because it fell off and they didn't want to replace it.

If you follow the Operator's Manual of the rotary cutter (every one I've read anyway), just like Bird said <font color="blue"> "If you look at how they say the top links should be adjusted, it would be physically impossible to do that without the tail wheel on the ground" </font>.

Not only will the tail wheel be on the ground but it will be supporting quite a bit of the weight.
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #75  
This may sound bad, but your dealer needs to get a different job.
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #76  
Here's a similar question... I have a Woods XT160 brush hog - the rear wheel spins on its axle very freely, however when I turn a corner, the wheel tracks straight and won't turn to assist the brush hog in turning. This just started happening 2 weeks ago. Both the axle for the wheel and the shaft the wheel and axel ride on are well greased. Any suggestions welcome.
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #77  
How old is the cutter and does the yoke have a lot of slack in it? Does the yoke have replaceable bushings or would you have to replace the whole yoke?
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #78  
Thanks, Billy. I do like the cut I get without the scalping. In my last post I was only pointing out that my thoughts on this, while not being majority, are not alone like I perceived from the first couple of dozen posts, but singling me out is fine as I was the first that mentioned little or no weight.

It is surprising to me how many people on this list follow their particular instruction manuals to the letter. I suppose that is a good thing, but it is surprising. I am not being sarcastic. Most of the people I know look at instruction manuals if there is a problem putting something together or using it. I've normally just done what the dealer or store suggests as they will be the ones covering it if it breaks.
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #79  
If it won't caster, then something is likely bent, or a bit out of adjustment. At least, something is not right. The upright pin that 'casters' the rear wheel should be verticle, not slanted forward (or back) and not tilted to one side or the other.

When I bent mine, that is what happened - it wouldn't caster correctly and I couldn't live with that. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
   / rear wheel on bush hog #80  
"Both the axle for the wheel and the shaft the wheel and axel ride on are well greased..."
If the cutter was used very much without grease the shaft may be worn and not allowing it to caster properly. Adding grease too late may or may not help the situation. If that's the problem you should be able to see the wear in the shaft, normally near the top of where it exits the tubing.
 
 

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