rear work light kit

JJZ 109 · Jan 23, 2013

bandit67 said:
No speakers in the B3000 either. That's why the radio install kit runs $300. I plan to do a radio at some point, but have found some decent aftermarket setups that would allow me to bypass the Kubota install kit. But I also plan to eventually add a backup camera to make snowblowing with my 3pt blower easier.

I got an aftermarket Pioneer stereo, Kubota's mount and some brand X speakers. I never was happy with the setup. I'm sure that you're aware of the previous complaints on the in cab hydro whine on the 3030's. Hopefully that's been addressed on your 3000.
Combine hydro whine with cheaping out on the speakers and it was a recipe for unhappiness. I think Waxman had far better results than I did. I had to crank it to hear anything and it wasn't enjoyable. If I had to to do all over, I'd have spent $50 on a Worktunes headphone radio and been done with it. In fact, I now have the Worktunes and use it in my Bobcat quite often and am happy with it.

bandit67 · Jan 23, 2013

Yep, I read up on all the B3030 radio posts, including yours. The B3000 may have a little more sound insulation than the B3030 as Kubota claims, but I don't know for sure. There is quite a bit of foam deadening around & under the floorboard. I did a little digging around because I am considering adding some more and needed to see what was already there, but Kubota actually did more than I thought they would have. I still think I can improve on some of it with some better quality stereo sound isolation/deadeners, and some additional foam at some of the floor penetrations.

There is a decent amount of hydro whine that makes it's way into the cab. Pretty much the same as my open station B3030, but the sound that makes it into the cab is definitely amplified by the cab.

I do think with a little more work in the sound isolation dept, and a decent set of speakers, I can create a decent sounding radio setup that I can live with. I've been using headphones & my iPhone, but I've decided that I would prefer an in-cab radio. There are a couple companies that specialize in tractor stereo systems, and since they're small companies and I can talk with the owner, I'm pretty confident we can come up with a system that will work pretty well. One thing I think will be critical is a set of self-contained speakers that I can mount close to my head, and utilize some rubber sound isolation to keep the tractor vibrations away from the speakers & housings.

Since I don't expect to need any bigger machine in the foreseeable future, I think I can customize this one to my liking, without worrying about losing my butt on the upgrades when I trade it in. Knowing I wanted a cab of some sort is what kept me from going too crazy with upgrades to my B3030, but after nearly 5 years with this size machine, I'm still very happy with it, even moreso now that I have my cab, so I have the time & motivation to try to get this machine all set up exactly the way I want it. Plus, I don't want anything to do with any of that Tier 4 stuff on my tractor for a long, long time. Bad enough I have to deal with that power & mileage robbing garbage on my truck.

srs · Jan 23, 2013

bandit67 said:
Yep, I read up on all the B3030 radio posts, including yours. The B3000 may have a little more sound insulation than the B3030 as Kubota claims, but I don't know for sure. There is quite a bit of foam deadening around & under the floorboard. I did a little digging around because I am considering adding some more and needed to see what was already there, but Kubota actually did more than I thought they would have. I still think I can improve on some of it with some better quality stereo sound isolation/deadeners, and some additional foam at some of the floor penetrations.

There is a decent amount of hydro whine that makes it's way into the cab. Pretty much the same as my open station B3030, but the sound that makes it into the cab is definitely amplified by the cab.

Bandit, not to hijack Tony's thread but if you do any kind of added sound insulation if you would be so kind I would appreciate what and how you're doing it. Anything that would work to quiet my B3030 would be welcomed. Thanks, Stanley

bandit67 · Jan 23, 2013

Will do.

Also, I could have sworn I took pictures when I had the headliner down so I had a reference for future projects, but I can't find them anywhere. Could have been I was planning to, then never got around to it. I don't know. Middle age sucks sometimes.

tony binkowski · Jan 28, 2013

just about to start install rear lights. not happy about the whole head liner dismantel but here it goes!

BizDoc · Dec 23, 2018

I have the lights connected outside, and understand dropping the back of the headliner, but the fasteners to reconnect the headliner, Are these a plastic rivet? Can I get the plastic rivets and a plastic rivet gun at a general hardware store or Lowes? I suppose they are size specific?

Thank you.

bandit67 · Dec 23, 2018

The factory plastic headliner fasteners are reusable. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, you push the center pin in slightly, then you can pull the entire fastener out of the headliner. To reinstall, pull the center pin partway out of the fastener, reinstall the fastener, then push the pin back in flush to hold the fastener & headliner in place.

BizDoc · Dec 23, 2018

Thank you Bandit67. That is very helpful. I was dreading the process, but this will make it much better. I appreciate your response tremendously.

Merry Christmas.
Michael

Fallon · Dec 24, 2018

bandit67 said:
The factory plastic headliner fasteners are reusable. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, you push the center pin in slightly, then you can pull the entire fastener out of the headliner. To reinstall, pull the center pin partway out of the fastener, reinstall the fastener, then push the pin back in flush to hold the fastener & headliner in place.

Yup. Push the center in a quarter inch or so with a punch or dowel. A screwdriver would work, but might mar the plastic. Then you can pull the whole pin out with fingernails or slipping something thin under the head & wiggling gently.

It's easy to see how they reinstall once they are out. Push the center bit out from the back side so it stands proud. Put it in the hole. Then press the center flush with your finger.

You shouldn't need to pull the headliner to install the work lights. Unless you reengineer the whole electrical system like I did. And then you remove the roof, not the headliner. The OEM work lights have the harness already in place. Plug them into the plugs on the outside. Then remove the vertical trim piece on the right side pillar. The switch connects behind it & goes in the knockout. You may even get lucky & be able to plug in the switch without removing the trim at all.