Rebuilding Kohler

   / Rebuilding Kohler #61  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

That's what we're here for /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Now, its almost time for an oil change. You'll probably want to change it several times over the first few hours of running to get any gunk cleaned out that you missed on your refresh.

Also, keep a watch on the oil level. This is when any little leaks are likely to show up. Look for runs, puddles or drips on the outside of the engine. When you change your oil, check the torque on things like the carb bolts, sometimes they loosen up.

Otherwise, sounds like you're done and it's fun time! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Keep us posted on your loader idea. I'm fixing to figure out how to add electric lift to mine ala the idea posted on the simpletractors site.

SHF
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

Engines at 2h 10min. The manual said to change ofter the first five should i do it earlier? I do have a leak somewhere but i am having trouble finding it. I hear a sound like air is coming out and i think thats where the little oil leak is. The noise goes away when the engine is brought above idle. I also have to adjust the carb because the spark plug looks like it will be carbon fouled soon. The manual say that means its running rich. I Was driving it today and i found my tie rods are worn out when it fell apart. I had bought new ones from Lowes the MTD brand. I know their tractors are garbage but i didnt think the tie rods would be too. I raplace one and drove the tractor around for 10 min and the tierod broke. It was made of soft metal so i got a drill bit and an easy out to remove the broken bolt. Well i have to go and find a temporary fix. Oh yeah after the loader im doing a front spindle upgrade and power steering!!
Frank
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler
  • Thread Starter
#63  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

Heres where i got the plans for the loader. Im going to modify the subframe so it extends to the rear axle. That should keep my frame from twisting i hope.

http://www.p.f.engineering.50megs.com/
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler #64  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

The manual for my tecumseh said to change after the first hour. I've heard some people say they change after the first 20 minutes. Then again at 1 hour. Again at 3 hours, etc.

Check your carb bolts and the gasket holding it on. That may be where your sucking sound is coming from. Also, some engines use crankcase vacuum to pump fuel and there is a vent from the crankcase to the back of the fuel pump.

SHF
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler
  • Thread Starter
#65  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

I still cant find that leak.
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler #66  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

If you have a stethoscope, even a cheap one, run the engine and move the stethoscope over (it doesn't have to touch the engine, just get close). Or, you could use a small piece of flexible plastic tubing. It allows you to hear only what is directly in front of the pick up end of the stethoscope or tubing. By moving the device back and forth across the engine, you can pin point the leak, or at least get a real good idea of what part of the engine it is coming from.

SHF
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler
  • Thread Starter
#67  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

I can hear it on the flywheel side of the engine. The flywheel/blower has a fin broken off because i dropped it. Could that be the problem? It sounds like its the bottom of the engine like the oil pan gasket.
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler #68  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

Could also be the crankshaft seal on the flywheel side.
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler
  • Thread Starter
#69  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

Can that be replaced without it being taken apart. I used the tractor today to pull down a tree trunk. engine is strong but that leak is still there. Kubmech how was your vacation if thats what it was.
 
   / Rebuilding Kohler #70  
Re: Refreshing Kohler

15 states in 7 days, 5 states in one day, with a somewhat uncooperative "Herk" ( C-130 Hercules). Was definitley no vacation, even though we somehow managed to have fun after the work was done, but thanks for asking.
Just depends on how the engine is mounted to your tractor. Some you can pull the flywheel to replace the seal without pulling the engine. Most of the tractors I can think of require pulling the engine though. Once the flywheel is off you can replace the seal. Just be careful not to scratch the crank sealing surface. Pack the inside of the new seal with grease real good to aid in retaining the spring that applies tension to the lip seal when re-installing.
By the way, glad to see you got that valve tap straightened out. Oh the joy of small engine valve adjustments. Don't get discouraged though, I have seen these little engines humble more than a few guys.
 

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