Rebuilding the Top End of the Deutz

[woodlandfarms]

So another project lingering has been the fact that since the belt slip, I am burning oil. Basically a quart ever tank.

Called the technican at Deutz, he said he would look at the head gasket first. Apparently the 1011 Series are prone to leaking.

I then called my Diesel mechanic neighbor. He said he would be looking at a bent valve or a bad valve seal first. I don't have leak down gear for diesel (only for spark plugged cars) so no way to do a compression test so I said heck with it, gonna have to tear it apart to fix it wether it is valves or head gasket.

So here are some pix. Pretty simple given the everything. I need to do a second exam, but the cylinders all looked great except #4. There is some small scoring but it is only visual, I do not feel it when I run my hand across the cylinder wall.

There was no gasket leak that I could tell, and so far the valves look fine. I guess it could be something with the rings... Going to test the valves tomorrow. I will say looking at Cylinder head 3 and 4 they have more carbon deposits on them.

Oh, and you have to see the pistons. They are crazy looking. They have hole in the center of each one.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Well, I lied. I had to head out to the shop and thought, Heck, lets turn the beast over by hand and check everything. Cylinder #4. So I don't know much about engines but it looks like somehting got into #4, or it got hot... The rub mark with the clear line I can feel. its subtle, but there is clearly a different texture. The other two spots have no feeling, just the look. THe rest of the cylinders look perfect. Hone lines are still quite clear...

Oh, and I threw in a picture of the crazy piston tops.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So talked to the Factory Rep for Deutz today. Nice guy, super helpful. $1000 for them to fix it if I pull it and take it over. $100 if I do it myself.

Basically he feel that there was a slight overheat on 4 (wich is Actually #1 and will be referred to correctly from here on out). he said he would do a slight hone, nothing serious, put in a new piston and rings. My Diesel Mechanic is coming up tonight and we will scope out a game plan.

First, not sure why this happened. Only thing I can think of is a number of years ago my thermostat failed. The engine did get warm. Deutz agrees, they say #1 is the most sensitive cylinder to heat. No one can guarantee 100% why, and of course I will check everything out as I move forward. But as the other cylinders seem to be perfect... Of course I was sort of hoping to walk into the CFO and say "Hey honey, engines blown and I need a new 2011F Turbo"

 

[woodlandfarms]

One thing I did not post is how much of a nightmare this is going to be. I do not have a shop per se. Just a carport with no walls and a dirt floor. An engine hoist will be nearly impossible to operate on the dirt. Not sure what I am going to do.

 

[LouNY]

Its not easy with a dirt floor but it is possible to use an engine hoist, couple of ways to work it one is 2x10's laid out to use for wheels on hoist, the other and what has worked better for me is two sheets thick of 3/4 plywood when I did one engine that way I used four sheets and ended up with a 4 x 16 strip to work with I cut one sheet into 4x4 pieces and staggered the joints and screwed the sheets together.

 

[marrt]

Carl,

Thanks for the pictures. This is interesting. When you say the engine got hot before, how hot are we talking and how long are we talking? Gauge pegged for hours or something less?

Back when I was using my 1845 for mowing, and before "the fix," I would regularly run the temps up pretty high before I'd go back to the shop and blow out the radiator. BUT...I was watching the gauge and didn't let it get too high for too long. There was a guy on here a few years ago that would run his 1845 very hot for a long time and didn't seem to worry about it.

Tom

 

[downsizingnow48]

For $1000 I would let the Deutz guys do it, especially since you do not have the facilities.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So my diesel friend came up today and we had a long talk. The truth is that if I had a shop, a way to pull this engine and not drop it in the dirt, my next statement would not be happening.

We are putting off the repair. While no one can fortell the future (is that right? Fortell a future? seems like I am saying the same thing twice), my mechanic friend feels that as I have been having this issue for at least a year, I have a lot more time left before things get stupid. I will be using a bit more oil, and of course something really tragic could happen, but it seems like holding it for a later date is a safer choice.

It would be a major PITA to pull the enging in my current shop. Probably mess something up worse. We were trying to figure out the engine hoist (no way to really make it work because I parked the machine to deal with a wheel motor, not an engine).

So lets see if I regret this decision. I am going to clean the heads, clean the cylinders, do a lot of clean up and we will see what it gets me.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Oh, and the overheat. OK... There is a good chance that this might have happened prior to my ownership, might be a chance it happened when my thermostat failed (was never sure how hot my engine really got), or it could have been with the belt failure although the is sketchy at best.


The #4 cylinder is the closest to the thermostat and the oil outlet from the engine. If the thermostat doesn't open up, it is the first cylinder to cook.

Hey KS, do you remember if my machine sat? I think it was the "parts" machine altough it had the newer engine. There is some odd rust that would only come from sitting for a while. (like the engine not running for a couple of years).

 

[MossRoad]

... Of course I was sort of hoping to walk into the CFO and say "Hey honey, engines blown and ............"

I had to have that conversation with my wife a month ago regarding the dead engine in our 2013 Impala.... no joy in mudville.