Rebuilding your Tractor ?

[Scrambler82]

I own a Mahindra MAX28, 28HP, stated lift... new, 1500 pounds, and I like the size of the tractor.
I only have 10 acres so the Max28 is perfect for my uses, field brush cutting (60" Brush hog), 60" grader scraper for the 1/4 mile drive repair, and stone moving. I have a backhoe which has worked out great.

I was wondering if is it worth rebuilding the tractor or having someone rebuild it ?

I would be interested in a motor rebuild and a little more Horse Power, larger Frontend Loader Cylinders, lift and curl, some hydraulic controls in the rear, and a biggy but I'm thinking costly, would be a second hydraulic pump to separate the oil pressure... i.e. Steering/BH on one pump and FEL on its own pump.
Future would be rebuild on the Backhoe and thinking a little larger cylinders on it too.

So here I sit thinking, smoke pouring out of the ears, not sure if buying new is worth it in this economy.

Please comment as you will, all I want is ideas on which way to go.

Thanks for your time / GOD Bless

 

[old and tired]

Tractors are built with "safety" margins... you start lifting more weight with the FEL and you'll turn over easier... You want more power, put a turbo on the engine and crank up the hydraulic pressure, which can be done, until it blows up...

Then you can buy a new tractor with bigger cylinders...

I've cranked up my PSI pressure, 250 psi and it makes a difference... I just don't know how to do it on your model.

 

[Scrambler82]

Thanks for the comment.you are correct, increased power/pressure, increased problems when you are talking small stock tractor.
I don't want to increase things too far just lifting what is actually claimed.

Thanks again

 

[old and tired]

What you first need to do is check your PSI for your system. Kubota "usually" sets their pressure on the lower side of the scale. My guess is most companies do that...

Gauge and a quick connect to hook into the system or "T" into a line, just use hydraulic connections to be safe.

Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge - BoltOnHooks LLC

Hydraulic pressure gauge. Relief valve.

www.boltonhooks.com

Make sure they know what tractor you are attaching this to.

 

[CliffordK]

I assume the tractor is running reasonably well right now. It will be a big money pit to rebuild an engine that doesn't need it.

Perhaps the first thing I would do if I was going down that path would be to research the Mitsubishi S3L2 engine, and see if there are multiple displacement/power variants.

If you want a dual hydraulic system, then you'll have to figure out where you wish to install the second pump. You could run it off of the PTO, or you may adapt a pump to run off of the front of the crankshaft (common on some of the older tractors and crawlers).

As far as bucket lift. You may increase the lift some. Then you'll need more rear ballast. You'll be chasing your tail, and eventually something will break.

Ultimately you may be better off to start hunting for a slightly larger tractor. Then decide which accessories you can keep and which need to be upgraded, and sell the old Mahindra MAX28.

 

[CliffordK]

I installed forks on the bucket of my Ford 1715. I love them, but I also know they're massively heavy. If I was doing it again, I'd probably use a dedicated fork attachment and find a much smaller size.

I probably have lost 200 lbs of lift capacity by using the forks.

On one occasion I had to unload an older slip roller, and the tractor wouldn't lift it. So, I ended up both adding ballast as well as removing the bucket. And, the loader without the bucket just barely was able to handle the slip roller.

 

[dodge man]

Is there anything wrong with it now? If not I’d just work within its limits. JD also sets there hydraulic pressure on the low side of the spec. I bumped mine up and it does make a difference. As I recall I bought my pressure gauge from Kenny’s Bolt On Hooks and hooked it up to a loader quick connect.

 

[ericm979]

I was wondering if is it worth rebuilding the tractor or having someone rebuild it ?

You're talking modify more than rebuild.

I would be interested in a motor rebuild and a little more Horse Power, larger Frontend Loader Cylinders, lift and curl, some hydraulic controls in the rear, and a biggy but I'm thinking costly, would be a second hydraulic pump to separate the oil pressure... i.e. Steering/BH on one pump and FEL on its own pump.

I'm pretty sure it's already got the typical for modern tractors separate steering pump. The specs list steering flow separate from regular flow. Sometimes the two pumps are mounted ganged together so it looks like one long pump.

Larger cylinders will put more force on the parts, potentially damaging them. And if you increase the lift capacity you'll need a heavier tractor in order to stay safe.

What you're talking about isn't impossible, but it's safer and better to just get a larger tractor. It probably costs less too unless you do all your own work and have a lot of spare stuff lying around to use for materials. It'll be less time as well, so you have more time to spend doing work with the tractor.

If you have a mechanical FI you may be able to turn up the fuel adjustment some to get a few more hp. Unless you're already running out of power for your tasks it's not going to make them go significantly faster. The only time I notice a lack of power is when driving up steep roads and chipping larger material with the PTO chipper.